GEN 2 Wiring question-Adding powered sub to non B&O system

sajprice86 · Jan 25, 2021

Hello all,

Just picked up a GEN 2 Raptor without the B&O system. So far I've upgraded the front and rear door speakers with JL Audio but it really needs a sub. Im looking to purchase a powered sub but am not too sure where to wire the remote and inputs to the factory unit. If it were an aftermarket head unit it would have the RCA jacks and a remote wire but I would imagine the OE unit does not. Any help would be appreciated!

The Car Stereo Company · Jan 25, 2021

you can tag the front door woofers or the rear door speakers for signal. turn on you can get from the passenger fuse box

Drgonzo3000 · Jan 26, 2021

Use the Front speakers for signal. The rears I think are crossed something like 180hz, Fronts are probably at like 100hz. I have the add-on kicker 8" sub that came with the truck when I bought it. It sounds like crap so I originally tried to tap into that sub signal which caused a bad ground loop and introduced tons of noise into the system. So I pulled that out and tapped into the speakers for the PAC signals. I originally tried to use the rears and it sounded like mud. Tapped into the fronts and it was better but still nothing like the the bass I had in my 2015 with sync2. Plus the stock unit tapers off lows the higher the volume goes. Overall pretty shity for trying to add a simple sub into the system.

AnacortesTom · Jan 26, 2021

Go nav tv. Had a pro set up my 2 12s in the JL audio stealth box and had some sort of JL box that gave a input for my amp but nothing sounded right till the nav tv unit was installed

sajprice86 · Jan 26, 2021

Drgonzo3000 said:
Use the Front speakers for signal. The rears I think are crossed something like 180hz, Fronts are probably at like 100hz. I have the add-on kicker 8" sub that came with the truck when I bought it. It sounds like crap so I originally tried to tap into that sub signal which caused a bad ground loop and introduced tons of noise into the system. So I pulled that out and tapped into the speakers for the PAC signals. I originally tried to use the rears and it sounded like mud. Tapped into the fronts and it was better but still nothing like the the bass I had in my 2015 with sync2. Plus the stock unit tapers off lows the higher the volume goes. Overall pretty shity for trying to add a simple sub into the system.

Do you remember which color's the wires were for the fronts in the harness?

AnacortesTom · Jan 26, 2021

There is some very in-depth threads by some pros already going into depth about it all here

AnacortesTom · Jan 26, 2021

The installer, before the nav tv was installed, removed the stock sub and used its input for the amp. The subs output turned down in volume as the head unit turned up. I heard this can be defeated I heard through forscan

The Car Stereo Company · Jan 26, 2021

i have a wiring guide posted in this section somewhere. it will have the wiring colors for the sound system. definitely do not recommend getting the signal from the oem sub.

as far as the nav tv, that is the best option to use when integrating the 18+ sound system. and is the only option i use when doing complete upgrades. if you are only planning on adding bass, and not upgrading the rest of the system, i would look into amplifiers that take a hi level input, or use something like the audiocontrol lc2i, or the audio mobile lds. definitely not the best, but is a budget friendly option to add a sub and get bass. not the cleanest sound, but will be better than whats currently in your truck.

AnacortesTom · Jan 26, 2021

The Car Stereo Company said:
i have a wiring guide posted in this section somewhere. it will have the wiring colors for the sound system. definitely do not recommend getting the signal from the oem sub.

as far as the nav tv, that is the best option to use when integrating the 18+ sound system. and is the only option i use when doing complete upgrades. if you are only planning on adding bass, and not upgrading the rest of the system, i would look into amplifiers that take a hi level input, or use something like the audiocontrol lc2i, or the audio mobile lds. definitely not the best, but is a budget friendly option to add a sub and get bass. not the cleanest sound, but will be better than whats currently in your truck.

The lc2i is what we used before the nav tv unit and I didn’t like it at all. Liked to have heard it without using the stock subs channel for sound. Either way it sounded great when done right.

Drgonzo3000 · Jan 26, 2021

sajprice86 said:
Do you remember which color's the wires were for the fronts in the harness?

Pretty sure this was the post I referenced. Drivers side kick panel there is a connector, I tapped into the wires there, Passenger side it was behind the glove box.

https://www.f150forum.com/f30/2015-ford-speaker-wiring-diagram-387719/

The PAC is not working for me so I need to decide if I want to go Audio Control lC2i or ramp up to the Rockford Fosgate DSR1.

GEN 2 Wiring question-Adding powered sub to non B&O system

sajprice86

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The Car Stereo Company

aka grumpy car stereo guy

Drgonzo3000

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AnacortesTom

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sajprice86

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AnacortesTom

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AnacortesTom

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The Car Stereo Company

aka grumpy car stereo guy

AnacortesTom

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Drgonzo3000

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