GEN 1 Subwoofer enclosure

I looking at upgrading my audio system in the near future and wanted to build a custom enclosure for my new sub. I have access to a full wood shop with Cnc capability so building it won’t be an issue. I’m planning to use a JL Audio 10” TW3 in a down firing enclosure. After talking to JL they said i need 2” from the mounting surface to the floor so the sub doesn’t hit at full extension. My question is how to create that 2” gap. Do you fully enclose it? Put 2” “walls” around the bottom surface and just enclose the 4 sides? Or just put 4 posts at the corners to lift it off the floor? I can provide pictures if this is confusing but I’m sure some of the audio experts here know what I’m talking about. Thanks in advance


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You could wall it in so nothing gets stuck underneath or make some legs/screw some hard rubber feet on

https://www.parts-express.com/4-Pack-Rubber-Cabinet-Feet-1.5-Dia.-x-1.5-H-260-7509?quantity=1

You keeping your back seat? Between the woofer depth, the enclosure and the excursion its going to be a "tight" fit.

I have the 13.5 JL stealthbox. Surprisingly loud and clean

i never recommend down firing boxes. i have seen too many woofers fall due to being only held in by the 8 screws. you have the weight of the woofer, as well as the vibrations it creates all putting stress on the mount points. however if you do want to build a downfiring box you can recess the woofer into the box. this is an upfiring box, but we build it so when the seat is down, there is that gap you are talking about so the woofer doesnt hit anything. just imagine it upside down for you down firing setup

The Car Stereo Company said:

i never recommend down firing boxes. i have seen too many woofers fall due to being only held in by the 8 screws. you have the weight of the woofer, as well as the vibrations it creates all putting stress on the mount points. however if you do want to build a downfiring box you can recess the woofer into the box. this is an upfiring box, but we build it so when the seat is down, there is that gap you are talking about so the woofer doesnt hit anything. just imagine it upside down for you down firing setup

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When I bought my 13 SCrew previous owner had removed the factory sub box and replaced with a J&L Audio sub box that has Qty(2) 8" subs. These subs are now bad. I was looking at the down firing boxes with Qty (1) 12" sub. Its the sub box enclosure that everyone sells as soon as you type in SUB Box for F150. I really like the sub box you have in this picture. Did you make this ? I want to redo my subs, but I want it to look nice and do it correctly once.

B boyes said:

When I bought my 13 SCrew previous owner had removed the factory sub box and replaced with a J&L Audio sub box that has Qty(2) 8" subs. These subs are now bad. I was looking at the down firing boxes with Qty (1) 12" sub. Its the sub box enclosure that everyone sells as soon as you type in SUB Box for F150. I really like the sub box you have in this picture. Did you make this ? I want to redo my subs, but I want it to look nice and do it correctly once.

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that was just to show how to recess the woofer into the box. thats a gen 2 box we build. we also have gen 1 boxes we build. they are a full length box with 2 10" subwoofers and a storage compartment in the middle. i will try to get a pic up for you.

The Car Stereo Company said:

i never recommend down firing boxes. i have seen too many woofers fall due to being only held in by the 8 screws. you have the weight of the woofer, as well as the vibrations it creates all putting stress on the mount points. however if you do want to build a downfiring box you can recess the woofer into the box. this is an upfiring box, but we build it so when the seat is down, there is that gap you are talking about so the woofer doesnt hit anything. just imagine it upside down for you down firing setup

View attachment 161446

Click to expand...

Okay, I have a fix for down firing sub boxes. Not a stereo guy just a machinist. So let me know if this woks. Every box I see is down firing and, if I understand correctly the screws strip out during off-roading. 1st thought was turn the sub box over, but that must not work correctly. So I'm going to machine an aluminum ring for clearance on the ID for the sub maybe .250" or .375" thick. I will either stud the ring and tack weld the bolts so they will not come loose or blind tap the holes and red lock tight in position. I will put the same BC pattern as the sub, Same idea as a studded cylinder head. This should hold up under a full send! LOL. I'm not sure if this will effect the CFM that the sub will require. What are your thoughts?

B boyes said:

Okay, I have a fix for down firing sub boxes. Not a stereo guy just a machinist. So let me know if this woks. Every box I see is down firing and, if I understand correctly the screws strip out during off-roading. 1st thought was turn the sub box over, but that must not work correctly. So I'm going to machine an aluminum ring for clearance on the ID for the sub maybe .250" or .375" thick. I will either stud the ring and tack weld the bolts so they will not come loose or blind tap the holes and red lock tight in position. I will put the same BC pattern as the sub, Same idea as a studded cylinder head. This should hold up under a full send! LOL. I'm not sure if this will effect the CFM that the sub will require. What are your thoughts?

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how are you integrating the ring into the box?

Not sure quit yet, I can split it into 2 pieces. Mabey split into 2 parts with a 1/32 endmill. This would allow me t fit into the precut opening. I can orientate the slip to avoid the BC pattern to maintain structural integrity. If it need to be sealed to the box I was thinking gorilla glue. Works really well on hair, possibly this application too? Sorry for the ****** joke there. HAHA. Not sure what are your thoughts?