FordTechOne
FRF Addict
Still an aftermarket calibration, which further supports the case of the issue being non-warrantable.
GEN 2 Need Transmission rebuild/replace. Recommendations on best route?
- Thread starter FrankL1
- Start date
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Still an aftermarket calibration, which further supports the case of the issue being non-warrantable.
This is the way. Warranty is gone anyway, transmission is disassembled by someone else with parts in a box? - New OE is preferred, but if cost is a worry just go used. Flush the cooler lines, buy a six pack or two for a buddy with a lift, and backyard mechanic her back to life
KAH 24
Full Access Member
Frank,
As you mentioned warranty, my biases are based on my corporate leadership role at an automotive OEM. I am an engineer focused on outcomes/business—and am not a mechanic, but consult with the extremely bright members on my team quite often unfortunately.
ETHICS: I believe it is dishonest at best to swap back to stock evidence of tuning/transmission shift point alterations/bigger tires. Why? Because we readily catch folks who try to swap back to OEM and pretend nothing was changed/modified.
1. It creates a tremendous perception of stark dishonesty (similar to folks who have legitimate back injuries/pain, yet have to fight to get care due the perception of those who scam the system). The easier wrong is far worse than the harder right. I can only speak from my experience—we catch the swap backs—and the urban myth that a lawsuit wins is sorely misrepresented.
2. You bought a used truck that had 37” vs OEM tire sizes. That does change gearing and puts significantly increased pressure on internals—especially if in conjunction with tuning for power, and of course—rough use and shoddy maintenance. NOTE: I have larger tires on my Jeep, but regeared the diff to get as close to ideal as possible. That said, if my transmission blows—that is not on my warranty.
3. Technology to catch mods, use patterns, etc., is improving faster than one may realize—as the OEMs will save money (and more readily identify improvements). The ability to catch liars has improved significantly—which I can see when I look at year over year, and past roles. If someone didn’t think an aftermarket mod could have caused damage—why did they swap back to stock, or why didn’t they go after the aftermarket parts company?
4. Interesting enough—when I have spoken with multiple large dealerships (new & CPO) and parts manufacturers, enough have said they are more likely to give someone help/a break—if they don’t try to game the system. I have seen it enough to consider it a fact.
5. One of my far sharper team colleagues led a seminar on the aftermarket (and I love the aftermarket). There are tremendous aftermarket companies with great warranties, infrastructure, and reputation for not trying to push the customer off onto an OEM for problems. There are also aftermarket companies that I wouldn’t urinate on if they were on fire.
NOTE: A decent number of outstanding aftermarket companies become preferred/sole vendors for OEMs which is a tremendous financial/reputation incentive for them to have good business practices. Some of the brightest engineers at my company came from the aftermarket—and have skill sets that are world class.
—————
That said, now time to fix your transmission.
I agree with @FordTechOne as he is spot on—with a few additional thoughts—in general (not all inclusive by any means).
1. Cost Factor & Duration: Your wallet, your use of the vehicle, how long do you plan to keep, stock vs. modded, importance of warranty, etc. If I were going back to stock tire size and wanted to keep the truck for many years/miles—the cost of new is amortized over time (if it is affordable to you).
2. Competence of technician: repair/rebuild shop is only as good as the expertise of the lowest denominator—the guy who rebuilds your transmission. I have seen the difference between excellent and poor. The extreme examples of shoddy stick out, but again—that is my bias as I cringe when I see shoddy (worn parts reused which accelerate wear on new components/poor assembly).
3. Consistency/Warranty: If the transmission is heavily damaged, I’d go with new or factory remanufactured if possible. The warranty may be better in some cases. Going back to stock is important.
4. Mods: If you want the big tires/lift, tuning, etc., I’d go with rebuilt as that is least expensive and say damn the torpedos in terms of warranty. PLEASE NOTE: I have no knowledge when it comes to regearing front & rear diffs on a Raptor. Someone else may know better.
5. Warranty on transmission: Whether new, remanufactured, rebuilt—you ought receive a warranty of some sort. Read it with a fine toothed comb, and if it isn’t clear—get written clarification (in the event things go south). The downside of some fly by night operations—is they fly by night and have 5 different owners in 3 years (yes I have seen that and far worse).
Overall, you have to be honest with yourself. You make the payments—not me, nor anyone on this forum. Wishing you the best of success!
As you mentioned warranty, my biases are based on my corporate leadership role at an automotive OEM. I am an engineer focused on outcomes/business—and am not a mechanic, but consult with the extremely bright members on my team quite often unfortunately.
ETHICS: I believe it is dishonest at best to swap back to stock evidence of tuning/transmission shift point alterations/bigger tires. Why? Because we readily catch folks who try to swap back to OEM and pretend nothing was changed/modified.
1. It creates a tremendous perception of stark dishonesty (similar to folks who have legitimate back injuries/pain, yet have to fight to get care due the perception of those who scam the system). The easier wrong is far worse than the harder right. I can only speak from my experience—we catch the swap backs—and the urban myth that a lawsuit wins is sorely misrepresented.
2. You bought a used truck that had 37” vs OEM tire sizes. That does change gearing and puts significantly increased pressure on internals—especially if in conjunction with tuning for power, and of course—rough use and shoddy maintenance. NOTE: I have larger tires on my Jeep, but regeared the diff to get as close to ideal as possible. That said, if my transmission blows—that is not on my warranty.
3. Technology to catch mods, use patterns, etc., is improving faster than one may realize—as the OEMs will save money (and more readily identify improvements). The ability to catch liars has improved significantly—which I can see when I look at year over year, and past roles. If someone didn’t think an aftermarket mod could have caused damage—why did they swap back to stock, or why didn’t they go after the aftermarket parts company?
4. Interesting enough—when I have spoken with multiple large dealerships (new & CPO) and parts manufacturers, enough have said they are more likely to give someone help/a break—if they don’t try to game the system. I have seen it enough to consider it a fact.
5. One of my far sharper team colleagues led a seminar on the aftermarket (and I love the aftermarket). There are tremendous aftermarket companies with great warranties, infrastructure, and reputation for not trying to push the customer off onto an OEM for problems. There are also aftermarket companies that I wouldn’t urinate on if they were on fire.
NOTE: A decent number of outstanding aftermarket companies become preferred/sole vendors for OEMs which is a tremendous financial/reputation incentive for them to have good business practices. Some of the brightest engineers at my company came from the aftermarket—and have skill sets that are world class.
—————
That said, now time to fix your transmission.
I agree with @FordTechOne as he is spot on—with a few additional thoughts—in general (not all inclusive by any means).
1. Cost Factor & Duration: Your wallet, your use of the vehicle, how long do you plan to keep, stock vs. modded, importance of warranty, etc. If I were going back to stock tire size and wanted to keep the truck for many years/miles—the cost of new is amortized over time (if it is affordable to you).
2. Competence of technician: repair/rebuild shop is only as good as the expertise of the lowest denominator—the guy who rebuilds your transmission. I have seen the difference between excellent and poor. The extreme examples of shoddy stick out, but again—that is my bias as I cringe when I see shoddy (worn parts reused which accelerate wear on new components/poor assembly).
3. Consistency/Warranty: If the transmission is heavily damaged, I’d go with new or factory remanufactured if possible. The warranty may be better in some cases. Going back to stock is important.
4. Mods: If you want the big tires/lift, tuning, etc., I’d go with rebuilt as that is least expensive and say damn the torpedos in terms of warranty. PLEASE NOTE: I have no knowledge when it comes to regearing front & rear diffs on a Raptor. Someone else may know better.
5. Warranty on transmission: Whether new, remanufactured, rebuilt—you ought receive a warranty of some sort. Read it with a fine toothed comb, and if it isn’t clear—get written clarification (in the event things go south). The downside of some fly by night operations—is they fly by night and have 5 different owners in 3 years (yes I have seen that and far worse).
Overall, you have to be honest with yourself. You make the payments—not me, nor anyone on this forum. Wishing you the best of success!
Last edited:
D
Deleted member 12951
Guest
People say that 37's don't cause issues, lot's of folks do it so it must be okay.
The Ford warranty states differently and they can use that if they determine that was the issue:
Repairs caused by improper or unauthorized service procedures, collisions or other physical damage to the Vehicle, damage caused by foreign objects, unreasonable use or continued use with an obvious failure (including driving over curbs, overloading, or using the Vehicle as a stationary power source), damage from fire or explosions, road hazards, other casualty losses, or losses due to negligence, racing or Failures caused by:
(4) any part designated for "off-road only" that is not installed by the manufacturer, including, but not limited to, lift kits, oversized tires, after-market wheels that do not provide equivalent fit and function as the original equipment installed by the manufacturer, and performance-enhancing powertrain components
I upgraded my GEN1 to 37's and after doing it, I wouldn't do it again. And I have no desire to do it on my new GEN2.
The Ford warranty states differently and they can use that if they determine that was the issue:
Repairs caused by improper or unauthorized service procedures, collisions or other physical damage to the Vehicle, damage caused by foreign objects, unreasonable use or continued use with an obvious failure (including driving over curbs, overloading, or using the Vehicle as a stationary power source), damage from fire or explosions, road hazards, other casualty losses, or losses due to negligence, racing or Failures caused by:
(4) any part designated for "off-road only" that is not installed by the manufacturer, including, but not limited to, lift kits, oversized tires, after-market wheels that do not provide equivalent fit and function as the original equipment installed by the manufacturer, and performance-enhancing powertrain components
I upgraded my GEN1 to 37's and after doing it, I wouldn't do it again. And I have no desire to do it on my new GEN2.
KAH 24
Full Access Member
@RDFTS
Spot on.
Urban myths create a ton of misconceptions. Just because Joe Jones had his issue taken care of, this means it is okay.
One point I forgot to mention is that my OEM has customers who very rarely modify their luxury SUVs, use the complimentary maintenance, stick with dealership service over time, and/or are rigorous overall at least during the first 125k miles. The SUVs being purchased obviously are extremely reliable—but they also tend to live fairly street based (or mild trail use) at most.
When I have pored over this data (and I have quite a bit in looking at issues), I would say certain vehicles are reliable—not only because of build quality, but because they are not pushed hard. If my Raptor is driven/operated like my wife’s “Brand X” luxury SUV—as I‘ve discussed with my team then it would likely demonstrate very high levels of reliability over time.
Ford builds a very good and reliable truck. My company builds very reliable and solid SUVs. My Jeep on the other hand, suffers self inflicted pain lol.
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Thank you, I did see that one as well. Which is a pretty good deal, and that's exactly what I was thinking, getting used possibly. I'll go ahead and give the AZ dealer a call as well, I just went on their website to get their parts dept number.
Will do, as far as mine go. Torque converter is out with the pumps. Transfer case is still good I believe, but I have a call to Ford this evening to get a better run down description doc from them. Thankyou
I'm sorry to hear about your trans but happy it got resolved. I personally don't know when the last or if it was ever serviced. I haven't gone through the Carfax the dealership provided to see. But I would like to know more of the proper/certain way to do it, once it does come up for needed service.
richnot
Full Access Member
There are sites that have new take off transmissions from doing engine swaps. Motors, body parts etc.
This is just a quick search for one, you would have to ask FTO if this will work for you
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-F-150...818799?hash=item3ff0daec2f:g:iUQAAOSwjGxf476j
This is just a quick search for one, you would have to ask FTO if this will work for you
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2020-F-150...818799?hash=item3ff0daec2f:g:iUQAAOSwjGxf476j
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