GEN 1 Headlight Switch w/ Fog Pullout Install

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ninjanick

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That is really weird that it can turn the indicator on but not the actual pods. Have you checked if the full voltage is being output to the lights?

Yeah when the switch is pulled out, the line gets battery voltage which is strange since it won't turn on the LEDs. I'm wondering if the LEDs need 12V ... with the vehicle off and the headlights on battery voltage dips below 12V.

---------- Post added at 09:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:18 PM ----------

Could it be that the ground reference in the switch is different than frame/chassis? That's why the indicator turns on, but not the fogs?
 

ninjanick

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Thinking about this more ... the only unknown is the switch. Is it at all possible that the ground on the switch is not the same ground as chassis? I was thinking I could test this theory out by connecting the fog light ground leads to this lead thereby completing the circuit, but the wire I used is 20AWG and I always thought good practice was to use the same gauge wire for both power and return.
 

Viperi

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Anyone have a wiring diagram to use the factory rigid wiring harness relay with this mod?
 

BenBB

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Anyone have a wiring diagram to use the factory rigid wiring harness relay with this mod?
Just like OP? The fog light switch circuit is grounded when you pull the switch out, and not grounded when pushed in; so you wire the switch to the trigger side, negative of your relay.
 

Viperi

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Just like OP? The fog light switch circuit is grounded when you pull the switch out, and not grounded when pushed in; so you wire the switch to the trigger side, negative of your relay.

Yea. I'm not familiar with relays for dc voltage. Kind of confused
 

BenBB

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They are! Basically it’s just a switch on one circuit that is turned on and off by another trigger circuit. So the trigger circuit has a positive and a negative side, when you either provide +12V on the positive OR provide-12V (by grounding an otherwise open circuit) you complete the trigger circuit and 12V flows through; that turns “on” the circuit on the other two poles of the relay.

The typical application is for a small circuit to control a larger one. A high-powered light is a good example, you can use smaller wire (and switch) on the trigger circuit and then large (and shorter) wire to carry the actual load. Does that make sense?
 

Viperi

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It definitely clears things up thank you for taking the time to explain. So the wire to the headlight switch is actually a ground to complete the circuit?
 

pat247

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Disclaimer: I have not done this mod to verify that it works. My research was done using the official ford 2014 F-150 wiring diagrams book. I've had the switch for quite a while and will be attempting this mod in the near future. I tried to buy the Motorcraft WPT-934 pigtail from the local ford store and was told it is on backorder and no timeline. I can take pics of the official diagrams and connectors if anyone needs them.

Foglight Wiring 002.JPG Foglight Wiring 003.JPG
 

indirocz28

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Disclaimer: I have not done this mod to verify that it works. My research was done using the official ford 2014 F-150 wiring diagrams book. I've had the switch for quite a while and will be attempting this mod in the near future. I tried to buy the Motorcraft WPT-934 pigtail from the local ford store and was told it is on backorder and no timeline. I can take pics of the official diagrams and connectors if anyone needs them.

View attachment 160657 View attachment 160658
Yes those would be quite helpful.
Did you ever get yours wired up?
Did you happen to use the “factory” wiring harness in the end?
 
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