High Output Lights on the Bumper

Smokyray said:

I really like your options for the LP6's however I prefer a more OEM/Covert look, but utilitarian. That said, I'm looking at a set of BD S2 Pro flush mounts on the bumper plastic plates either side of the license plate hole which would add nicely to my DD lights hiding behind my bumper hole grills (Amazon).

How well do the S2 pros work?
https://www.bajadesigns.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=7D036394A00B4098B8CE1D6248ED2F89

Thanks
Smokey

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S2's Pros produce 2150 lumens each. Plenty bright and a rather small footprint at 3"x2". Something else to consider is the S1. They're 2375 lumens each and 2.8"x2.8" for the flushmounts. Price point is also quite a bit less.

Let us know if we can get you setup!

Happy holidays!

Smokyray said:

I really like your options for the LP6's however I prefer a more OEM/Covert look, but utilitarian. That said, I'm looking at a set of BD S2 Pro flush mounts on the bumper plastic plates either side of the license plate hole which would add nicely to my DD lights hiding behind my bumper hole grills (Amazon).

How well do the S2 pros work?
https://www.bajadesigns.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=7D036394A00B4098B8CE1D6248ED2F89

Thanks
Smokey

Click to expand...

I have a pair of S2 Pro Amber's in my fog light set up. They're not technically street legal so take that into consideration. Overall I enjoy them as part of my set up, I have them wired to AUX 5 and throw them when I hit my SAE lights (I have them angled slightly down and away). They do a great job in foggy/cloudy/dusty situations but aren't nearly as bright as even Squadron Sports. If you're looking to throw a lot of light the S2's won't cut it IMO, if you just want some additional fill to hit the ditch and close up, they're perfect in that application.

LeadFootLarry said:

I think I like the SwarfWorks with LP6’s best as they won’t block the Ford emblem when [email protected] is it possible to run the LP6’s without their amber backlighting (ie wire to a different switch or somehow disable)? Not sure I like the look of that feature

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That's an aesthetically pleasing idea. I'm more of a function over form kind of guy so I'd probably opt for 4 LP9's. There are cows and deer out there that need to be turned to ash at a 1000 yards.

That being said, mounting LP6/9's in the outer positions may be the ideal solution. Does anyone know how much of the camera picture is obscured by the Swarfworks bar?

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SwarfWorks offers a camera relocation kit as an addon for $99. I think they have pics on their site @Chazzersgarage

LeadFootLarry said:

SwarfWorks offers a camera relocation kit as an addon for $99. I think they have pics on their site @Chazzersgarage

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I really don't to move the camera or do a anything to mess with the factory electronics. I've watched too many wiring horror stories on motorcycles and other vehicles with CAN BUS type systems stemming from the slightest alterations or modifications.

I'm willing to give up a little bit of front end view in parking and "rock crawling" mode for the right mount. My goal is long range lighting that is below the hood. Maximum performance with minimal intrusions on existing systems.

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Lilla Kharn said:

I’m debating on replacing my bumper with SVC’s no cut and running the LP9’s. Swarfwork’s website says it only works with the ADD and the LP6’s. Am I going to need a little fabrication?

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I have the SVC bolt on. Think it looks great, and handles the 5 Baja Designs Squadrons perfectly. Pillar mounts holding another pair of Squadrons help a lot.

The BD LP6 and 9's are enormous, and my opinion is they look absurd. On the bumper they block way too much airflow, which most seem to not care about. That level of lighting is just not needed on the road or for mild off roading. I get the attraction of crazy amount of lighting, but I like my truck to stay a little more understated.
Squadrons or XL80's will put or a very very adequate amount of light.

Chazzersgarage said:

I really don't to move the camera or do a anything to mess with the factory electronics. I've watched too many wiring horror stories on motorcycles and other vehicles with CAN BUS type systems stemming from the slightest alterations or modifications.

I'm willing to give up a little bit of front end view in parking and "rock crawling" mode for the right mount. My goal is long range lighting that is below the hood. Maximum performance with minimal intrusions on existing systems.

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well, I think you need to make some decisions.

"long range" and "low mount" requirements essentially significantly minimize the amount of range that you're going to get out of your investment.

When you're attempting to create definition long-range, having lights at multiple heights with slightly different aiming points creates definition and minimizes shadows.

With regard to long-range, Higher is better as a general rule of thumb.

Stationary objects appear to move in the dark because of the amount of shadow on the object. When the truck moves vertically or horizontally, the shadow on the object will move and thus, to the human eye, the stationary object appears to be moving, when it obviously isn't.

I've been running XL80s and XL racers for a couple years. They work fantastically well.

I'd recommend going with some BD XL sized lights. Pick your poison as to how much distance you're after ( there are 3 different "strengths" with regard to distance and total light output).

I will agree that A pillar lights can be distracting in your field of view. The way most of the brackets attach can also lead to visibly shaking of the light/mount.

HOWEVER, The BD S1s are a wonderful little light, which I think are ideal for A Pillar use. Perhaps consider as a compliment to the "below the hoodline" lights, adding a pair of S1 lasers and a pair of S1 wide lights. The wide lights can be andled to provide closer range ditch lighting, and those little S1 lasers will SHOCK you as to how far they throw light ( and how much they actually throw.)

I have a 60" BD Onx6 arc bar on my roof. It is the Racer edition, which is the longest distance that you're going to find in an LED light.

I also have a pair of S1 Lasers that I've been playing around with.

If you want my honest opinion, those little S1 Lasers illuminate an object that is about 100 yards past where the racer leds make it. It blew my mind.

If I had unlimited fun budget, I'd have my 60" upgraded to laser, but it is a bit hard to justify being that my truck legitimately cannot go fast enough at night to outrun the racers, and...

I really am not inclined to drop $12K to upgrade the bar. ( nor do I need a $15K light bar.) Once I either make my truck fast enough to outrun the bar I have now, or if I buy a race truck, I'll seriously consider it.


CN: Think about running XLs on the bumper, then supplementing with S1s on the A-Pillar for maximum effectiveness.

@zombiekiller I have to agree with you that higher is better. I have a lot of experience in Baja however, mine is mostly on motorcycles. As you you know, there is no such thing as too much light in Baja at night. That said, Pillar lights are a "no go" for me. They're distracting in my field of view.

Going with the XL's on the grill vs the S8 in the grill seems to be an even trade. How did you mount the Onx6 on the roof? I had not previously considered the idea of a roof bar because most that I've seen have not been quality equipment or installations.

Maybe the best all around solution would be something like the S8 and your Onx6 on the roof. It would be expensive but I'd only have to do it once.

Chazzersgarage said:

@zombiekiller I have to agree with you that higher is better. I have a lot of experience in Baja however, mine is mostly on motorcycles. As you you know, there is no such thing as too much light in Baja at night. That said, Pillar lights are a "no go" for me. They're distracting in my field of view.

Going with the XL's on the grill vs the S8 in the grill seems to be an even trade. How did you mount the Onx6 on the roof? I had not previously considered the idea of a roof bar because most that I've seen have not been quality equipment or installations.

Maybe the best all around solution would be something like the S8 and your Onx6 on the roof. It would be expensive but I'd only have to do it once.

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Are you thinking s8 behind the grill, or in front? Behind the grill loses A LOT of throw. ( I didn't believe it at first, but in person it is significant). I like The XLs on the bumper because it gives you a few chances for failure, but still the opportunity to have some lights left if one gets hammered or fails. In all honesty, this is my preference and by no means some sort of "law".

I'm using tension mounts that Texas Motorworx designed and has made. (Call the shop and ask for Jason. Tell him Dave sent you. If you buy the bar from them, he'll give you the mounts for free.)

They are super tough, and a tension mount. I have about 3K dirt miles on it. hasn't moved a single millimeter. I have smacked tree branches hard enough that I cracked the windshield, but the bar and aim stayed put. The bar seriously makes daylight. once you get it aimed right, it really doesn't make any noise. If you aim it too low, It will howl louder than your stereo can go.




The actual Mounts:


View From Eye Level in the cab:



and as you said, buy once, cry once. I finally had my first BD light failure after 5 years of really being mean to them. It was on an LP6 because a portion of the lens seal failed, condensation got in the light, and one of the LEDs shorted.

@zombiekiller Thanks, good info.