ICON UCA on Gen 1

Our most popular UCA is the ICON Delta Joint, followed by RPG but like 5 to1.

The Delta Joint has a 5yr warranty and is enclosed so it will not wear out as quickly as an exposed uniball. The ICON DJ does require greasing every 3k miles or every oil change. A standard uniball is not recommended to grease unless with a dry lube is best. I had the ICON DJ on my GEN1 and it worked great but I had Method 0 offset wheels. They are designed to work with stock wheels and tires but recommend a wheel with at least 6mm offset which is about 1/4" further out. And of course, the ICON Alloy wheels are 6mm offset.

If you are planning on locking the lowers, then in my opinion the ICON's are the best since you can make adjustments while on the truck without removing. You do need to find a shop that knows how to make caster/camber adjustments from the UCA though. A lot of tire shops have no idea.

Hub-Centric wheels is what you want. I have seen multiple people that have broken lugnuts when off-roading with lug-centric wheels. If I only seen it once, then I would think that person didn't torque them correctly but after seeing it several times, torque wasn't the issue but the forces on the wheel and lugnuts when off-roading. I personally have only had hub-centric wheels and will never get lug-centric. I have bent 3 wheels when off-roading over a period of a few years but have never broken a lug. I do recommend carrying a few with you, fronts aren't too bad, rears not so much to swap out.

I do have one more ICON DJ in stock that I will sell at a discount. Message me if interested.
Thanks,
Rick

letsgetthisdone said:

Sorry, but you're wrong. There's a reason heavier vehicles get more/larger studs. Its to increase the clamping force, thus generate more friction at the mounting surface. With sufficient friction at the mounting surface, there is no shear load because the wheel doesn't move around on the hub.

The hub simply does not carry load. It's not even an interference fit, so if it was carrying load it means the wheel is sliding around on the hub surface, and the studs would not last very long, nor would plastic hub centric spacer typically sold with aftermarket wheels. Hub-centric exists only for centering the wheel while it's being tightened.

Regardless of this, my spacer are hub and wheel centric. Makes it easier to bolt the wheel up without getting vibration from it being off center. But theres no way the 1/8" thick aluminum lip has been holding the wheel on for the for the past 5k miles.

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Welllllllll - I tend to disagree - To each there own - Best of luck

Plastic centric spacers are nuts - I make mine out of 6061 or 7075 aluminum. I've only made a few used for road course cars not Off road beating - whole different ball game.

Soo basically to counter all the arguments here just go with a forged hubcentric 25mm spacer and you alleviate all issues rubbing, lug centric, sheer....etc...

If such an animal exists to match your wheel. - Any competent machine shop can make some if the center bore of the wheel is large enough.

How long do the joints usually last on these things?

Motorsport-tech makes hub and wheel centric spacers, where I get all of them.

If the wheel bore is what was holding the wheel on the truck, every single wheel would show evidence of moving/rubbing in the bore in the way of worn away aluminum and the bore opening up. This simply doesn't happen because the friction between the wheel and hub is what holds everything together. If it didn't the studs would shear simply from the rapid accel/decel that occurs accelerating or braking in bumps/whoops as the tires comes on and off the ground.

You all keep bringing up road course stuff like the raptor is my first offroad experience... The raptor is a slow pig compared to what I’ve done with trucks pictured, class 1, and class 10 cars.

Doesn't it say in the directions that come with the arms they shouldn't be ran with stock offset wheels?

letsgetthisdone said:

Motorsport-tech makes hub and wheel centric spacers, where I get all of them.

If the wheel bore is what was holding the wheel on the truck, every single wheel would show evidence of moving/rubbing in the bore in the way of worn away aluminum and the bore opening up. This simply doesn't happen because the friction between the wheel and hub is what holds everything together. If it didn't the studs would shear simply from the rapid accel/decel that occurs accelerating or braking in bumps/whoops as the tires comes on and off the ground.

You all keep bringing up road course stuff like the raptor is my first offroad experience... The raptor is a slow pig compared to what I’ve done with trucks pictured, class 1, and class 10 cars.

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Don't worry, it's the internet, everyone knows everything, even when you have 10x the experience they do.

Cody Templeton said:

Don't worry, it's the internet, everyone knows everything, even when you have 10x the experience they do.

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LOL right..

For your question on how long the joint lasts. My buddy has them on his Lexus GX470, 2yrs and ~35k miles with regreasing them every ~4k on oil changes and his were not yet worn out. I would expect them to last longer than standard a uniball since they are lubricated, and are able to pull clean grease into them from on top of the joint, and they have grooves to push the gunk into. And then by regreasing every 3-5k, you can flush the old grease and contaminants out.

Cody Templeton said:

Don't worry, it's the internet, everyone knows everything, even when you have 10x the experience they do.

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I agree with that - LOLOLOLOLOL