ICON UCA on Gen 1

Cody Templeton said:

The other question I have is regarding how long the ball joints last. I'm assuming you would want uniball arms instead of heim joint arms if you're looking for longevity? For the cheaper arms who would you recommend?

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Most of these arms have uniball and heim. Rpg, camburg, kibbetech, icon tube, svc, Rogue, dirt king. They are all pretty much the same.

PorterW1111 said:

Most of these arms have uniball and heim. Rpg, camburg, kibbetech, icon tube, svc, Rogue, dirt king. They are all pretty much the same.

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Alright, guess I'll just look around. lol

I'm running stock offset wheels. With Toyo At2's in 35x12.5r17 they rubbed ever so slightly with having about 1/4" static clearance, not enough to be concerned about. When I went to RidgeGrapplers in the same size, the static clearance went to like almost nothing and they rubbed a lot, including on the front of the arm at full lock. So i installed ARP extended studs (the ones for 2015+ mustang work, you just need M14x1.5 lug nuts), and 16mm spacers.

I have the camburg UCA’s and I noticed some rubbing marks on the outside of the uniball.

Cody Templeton said:

The other question I have is regarding how long the ball joints last. I'm assuming you would want uniball arms instead of heim joint arms if you're looking for longevity? For the cheaper arms who would you recommend?

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The heim doesn’t replace the uniball...the heim joints still have uniball, but instead of having polyurethane bushings where they mount to the frame they have heim joints

If you run 1/4" spacers, I don't think your wheels will be hub centric any more. The entire weight of the wheel / tire combo will be supported by the lug studs & nuts only. I could be wrong but you had better check.

Raptor 2014 said:

If you run 1/4" spacers, I don't think your wheels will be hub centric any more. The entire weight of the wheel / tire combo will be supported by the lug studs & nuts only. I could be wrong but you had better check.

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The weight of the vehicle is always, and only, supported by the friction between the hub mounting surfaces, generated by the clamping force of the studs/nuts. Hub centric only helps to center the wheel during installation.

I disagree - Lugs are designed mostly for clamping loads - Not shear loads. A 14mm stud is about .55". I assuming a grade similar to American Grade 8. So torqued to 130LBS lubed gives us some where around 14,000 to 17,000 Lbs of camping load per stud - A hell of a lot - That is what it is designed for.
They were not designed for 90% shear loads. Quite a bit of the shear load is taken up by the hub if the wheel is hub centric.
For the street no problem but for a 135 + LBs wheel tire combo used for offroad or racing, your gonna eventually see sheared studs - No Bueno Amigo.
Cart wheels or hopefully just skidding off to a stop or into some kind of structure.

Just did a quick search - First link
https://www.liveabout.com/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels-3234497


It is the internet so Who Knows LOLOLOLOL

Raptor 2014 said:

I disagree - Lugs are designed mostly for clamping loads - Not shear loads. A 14mm stud is about .55". I assuming a grade similar to American Grade 8. So torqued to 130LBS lubed gives us some where around 14,000 to 17,000 Lbs of camping load per stud - A hell of a lot - That is what it is designed for.
They were not designed for 90% shear loads. Quite a bit of the shear load is taken up by the hub if the wheel is hub centric.
For the street no problem but for a 135 + LBs wheel tire combo used for offroad or racing, your gonna eventually see sheared studs - No Bueno Amigo.
Cart wheels or hopefully just skidding off to a stop or into some kind of structure.

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Sorry, but you're wrong. There's a reason heavier vehicles get more/larger studs. Its to increase the clamping force, thus generate more friction at the mounting surface. With sufficient friction at the mounting surface, there is no shear load because the wheel doesn't move around on the hub.

The hub simply does not carry load. It's not even an interference fit, so if it was carrying load it means the wheel is sliding around on the hub surface, and the studs would not last very long, nor would plastic hub centric spacer typically sold with aftermarket wheels. Hub-centric exists only for centering the wheel while it's being tightened.

Regardless of this, my spacer are hub and wheel centric. Makes it easier to bolt the wheel up without getting vibration from it being off center. But theres no way the 1/8" thick aluminum lip has been holding the wheel on for the for the past 5k miles.