Overheating issues in mountain areas....

GCATX said:

I know, I was being ABUSIVE explaining the setup to Corona.

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M3sparky said:

OK I've been noticing before when I go up to the mountains that I would see it running hotter and even sometimes the over heat light popped on and once I let off the gas it would lower on its own pretty quick and I'd smell coolant so upon checking it each time it looks like it sprays coolant from the coolant tank cap on top from pressure or idk. But today I was going and its 32 degrees through the pass it was dry so I just went wot passing some cars then shortly after damn light comes on! And this time ***** hot 260f I pulled over popped the hood and was steaming like a chimney from coolant all over the damn motor. I waited a bit started again it starts to climb again on idle to 230 so I let it sit some more reflashed my tune, added some cold water that I had to make it to the gas station which wasn't far away thankfully, got a gallon of coolant and it nearly took it all, shocked how much it sprayed out, the cap seems to be loose though not sure if they all feel like that and again it seems likes it's spraying from the cap since it's wet from there and down. I see people do radiator changes and thermostat changes but still seem to run into overheating time to time. When not in elevation it usually doesn't go past 230 on the hardest driving. Any one else experience this? After putting the coolant and reflashed the tune I just drove it normally at speed limit and it didn't heat up any more the rest of the trip.

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CoronaRaptor said:

@FordTechOne what kind of fuckery is this? lol

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FordTechOne said:

Newer system. The 3.5 uses a degas bottle, which is pressurized by the cooling system when the engine is running. There is no cap on the radiator; it is located on the degas bottle. This is why the degas bottle cap is rated for 21PSI. The advantage to the degas bottle design is that it is higher than the radiator, which helps purge air from the system. The 6.2 uses a radiator cap with a coolant expansion (overflow) tank, which is not pressurized.

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CoronaRaptor said:

Thanks for the education, appreciate the explanation.

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Booth9999 said:

I have had it climb to 246 pushing it up the mountain, I think it is the FMIC restricting the airflow over the radiator. I’m going to install the new radiator soon as I find the time but it was definitely considering this summer. I was able to do it on command when it is hot out by just holding it to the floor until it starts to spike. I hope it solves my issues.

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Badgertits said:

curious if that solves the issue it is something that stuck out to me when looking into those & seemed like not worth the risk w/ warranty etc

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Booth9999 said:

Yeah i think it definitely should be done with the upgraded radiator. Runs great except in the hottest climate, she never lost power Even that hot. I even had it start to get hot at low speeds following a slow truck up the mountain so it is definitely a airflow issue or a radiator fluid capacity issue. It’s too cold here for months to see the extreme temps but I’ll have the new trans cooler and the freekaboost radiator in by then. Also going to fab up a custom air diverted to push the air through the rad and not let it go around the sides and bottom. My rubber piece that sat between the rad and the bumper got shredded when I was going too fast after the FMIC install so it is gone now. I think that has to do with my cooling issues.

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