Changing my mind, from upgrading my Raptor to just having two. Long Term Maintenance Questions

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mpbowyer

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I bought my 2011 with 88k miles for $33,500. It has proven very robust and reliable. I've done the following maintenance and nothing more.

Oil when the computer says under 20%, motorcraft semi-synthetic and motorcraft filters.
Two shock rebuilds by Forged
Brakes one time at 140k miles, OEM pads and rotors, front and rear.
Rear right axle shaft, bent where the wheel flange connects to the shaft.
Differential (front and rear) and transfer case fluids at 120k, had dealership do it.
Fuse 27, it had started to fail.
Spark plugs, all 16 OEM, at 100k miles.
I clean and oil my K&N filter every other oil change or so.
Power steering flush
Coolant flush after radiator cap failed.
Radiator cap
OEM Upper control arms and MOOG lower ball joints at 100k
TPMS sensors, two failed at 155k miles

I switched to Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT tires, after a few sets of BFGs that seemed to prematurely wear. The coopers are better in every way to me, better traction, better in snow, they wear dead-evenly, and they are much quieter. Currently running 2019 raptor wheels

The only mods on my truck are a pre-runner no-cut front bumper, LED bars behind the front grille and in the rear bumper, and I swapped to mid-perch, viton seals, and changed to a flutter-stack on the front shocks.

We thought we would replace our Mazdaspeed 3 with a Model S, then upgrade the Gen1 to a Gen2 Raptor. Now with gas prices staying low, truck values staying high, and a little more disposable income, we are talking about keeping the Gen1 and swapping the hatchback for a Gen2.

With all that in mind, I would be planning to keep this truck in daily service until about 250k miles. Right now it has 160k. What service should I be planning? Here's what is on my mind, but I don't know what I'm missing.
-Transmission fluid, I know OEM calls out 150k, mine acts perfectly with the original fluid. Dealer refused to change it when I did diff fluids, said it was perfect and to leave it alone.
-Serpentine belt, no reason to ask a $50 belt to last 15 years and go around two billion times
-Spark plugs one more time
-Diff and transfer case fluid one more time
-Brakes maybe one more time, flush the fluid
-Power steering fluid
-Front CV boots, I can see one leaking grease and I have all 4 sitting in a drawer with grease front Forged Offroad
-Water pump if it starts to leak, if not just leave it.

I really don't know what else to "be prepared for". I never hear valves ticking, Exhaust somehow seems new, spark plug wires seem like asking for trouble to change, no issues with fuel system.

What am I missing?
 

CoronaRaptor

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How about non drivetrain repairs. Heated seat elements, in dash damper motors, leather repairs, headlight and taillight bulbs, mirror indicator led strips, and touch up paint. Truck should last 250k no problem.
 

GCATX

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I bought my 2011 with 88k miles for $33,500. It has proven very robust and reliable. I've done the following maintenance and nothing more.

Oil when the computer says under 20%, motorcraft semi-synthetic and motorcraft filters.
Two shock rebuilds by Forged
Brakes one time at 140k miles, OEM pads and rotors, front and rear.
Rear right axle shaft, bent where the wheel flange connects to the shaft.
Differential (front and rear) and transfer case fluids at 120k, had dealership do it.
Fuse 27, it had started to fail.
Spark plugs, all 16 OEM, at 100k miles.
I clean and oil my K&N filter every other oil change or so.
Power steering flush
Coolant flush after radiator cap failed.
Radiator cap
OEM Upper control arms and MOOG lower ball joints at 100k
TPMS sensors, two failed at 155k miles

I switched to Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT tires, after a few sets of BFGs that seemed to prematurely wear. The coopers are better in every way to me, better traction, better in snow, they wear dead-evenly, and they are much quieter. Currently running 2019 raptor wheels

The only mods on my truck are a pre-runner no-cut front bumper, LED bars behind the front grille and in the rear bumper, and I swapped to mid-perch, viton seals, and changed to a flutter-stack on the front shocks.

We thought we would replace our Mazdaspeed 3 with a Model S, then upgrade the Gen1 to a Gen2 Raptor. Now with gas prices staying low, truck values staying high, and a little more disposable income, we are talking about keeping the Gen1 and swapping the hatchback for a Gen2.

With all that in mind, I would be planning to keep this truck in daily service until about 250k miles. Right now it has 160k. What service should I be planning? Here's what is on my mind, but I don't know what I'm missing.
-Transmission fluid, I know OEM calls out 150k, mine acts perfectly with the original fluid. Dealer refused to change it when I did diff fluids, said it was perfect and to leave it alone.
-Serpentine belt, no reason to ask a $50 belt to last 15 years and go around two billion times
-Spark plugs one more time
-Diff and transfer case fluid one more time
-Brakes maybe one more time, flush the fluid
-Power steering fluid
-Front CV boots, I can see one leaking grease and I have all 4 sitting in a drawer with grease front Forged Offroad
-Water pump if it starts to leak, if not just leave it.

I really don't know what else to "be prepared for". I never hear valves ticking, Exhaust somehow seems new, spark plug wires seem like asking for trouble to change, no issues with fuel system.

What am I missing?

Sell everything, while prices are still high, and get gen 2's?
I wish I could have talked my wife into that, she likes her SUV's though.
 
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mpbowyer

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Sell everything, while prices are still high, and get gen 2's?
I wish I could have talked my wife into that, she likes her SUV's though.

My wife drives the raptor 2/3 of the time, my commute is further and the mazdaspeed is fun. She would be getting the gen2 most of the time.

I'll just have to suffer through.
 
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mpbowyer

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How about non drivetrain repairs. Heated seat elements, in dash damper motors, leather repairs, headlight and taillight bulbs, mirror indicator led strips, and touch up paint. Truck should last 250k no problem.

Good point, our leather is perfect, but the driver heated seat element is out. One in-dash damper clicks from time to time but heat and cool work, and climate control works. Bulbs will happen. I hope to stay out of rust, in salt lake city but the air is dry so its not slush-rust-salt from the midwest.
 

CoronaRaptor

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Good point, our leather is perfect, but the driver heated seat element is out. One in-dash damper clicks from time to time but heat and cool work, and climate control works. Bulbs will happen. I hope to stay out of rust, in salt lake city but the air is dry so its not slush-rust-salt from the midwest.
The heated seat element is cheap (under $50) and i've done the repair myself. It is something you can do yourself. I use fluid film under my truck every fall, so far rust free for 10 years.
 
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