Getting King 3.0's on the front and back. Anything I should know before hand?

I've always been able to push down a shock..im 6'3" at like 200 lbs..I can't push down the stock shocks but maybe an inch or 2..the brand new kings I just got I can push down almost all the way..point of story, I felt that the stock shocks were just ungodly to stiff!! And when and if u can get them pushed down they almost hop off of the ground when the extend they come out so fast..lol..but yeah preference to a point for sure

zhengyucoo said:

Make sure you know the noises before you think its broken.

Click to expand...

[emoji23] [emoji1312] this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Bowewelding said:

I've always been able to push down a shock..im 6'3" at like 200 lbs..I can't push down the stock shocks but maybe an inch or 2..the brand new kings I just got I can push down almost all the way..point of story, I felt that the stock shocks were just ungodly to stiff!! And when and if u can get them pushed down they almost hop off of the ground when the extend they come out so fast..lol..but yeah preference to a point for sure

Click to expand...

If they are electronic shocks they will be super stiff when unplugged.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

They were the stock shocks on my 17... that truck i got ford to buy it back on lemon law. Traction control fault that the dealer couldn't figure out so now I have a 20..I need to get the damper interface devise so I can put my aftermarket shocks on it. But these live dampers ride way better than the stock ones did in 17 so I haven't been in such a hurry to get the d.i.d

Bowewelding said:

I've always been able to push down a shock..im 6'3" at like 200 lbs..I can't push down the stock shocks but maybe an inch or 2..the brand new kings I just got I can push down almost all the way..point of story, I felt that the stock shocks were just ungodly to stiff!! And when and if u can get them pushed down they almost hop off of the ground when the extend they come out so fast..lol..but yeah preference to a point for sure

Click to expand...

I’ve never been able to easily compress a shock with 200psi of nitrogen in it. Maybe an inch or two at most. They’re hard to compress with just 50-80 psi in them for assembly.

Your understanding of how the Fox IBP works is incorrrect. And your description of how they act makes me think the valving changes you did were too drastic or incorrect, or they weren’t reassembled properly.

I lowered the nitrogen psi in my 17 shocks and lightened the compression valveing and it made a little difference but for me it still just rebounded way to fast.. it wasn't assembled wrong.. Lmao!! The fox ibp is explained in videos from fox on YouTube. You can see there free bleed holes on the bottom passing fluid around the piston as it travels through its rebound travel..then on the compression stroke the shims screwed to the side of the shock body make the compression bypass holes a 1 way thing..these things aren't rocket science..I have a walker Evans shock disassembled on my bench right now from an early rzr. They have a free bleed hole in the shaft allowing fluid to pass by the piston with a needle top similar to the king only thing different is that king runs the fluid through a piston with shim stacks on it. The fox ibp like I said before is like an early curnutt bypass shock that was seen in the mountain bike world years ago. The live valve i feel rides better because of the variation of the compression valve at the elbow of the Rezervoir . What kind of shocks are on that trophy truck you were speaking of in earlier posts?

It’s like anything else with two shocks per corner, coilover and an external bypass.

The multiple holes in the bottom only allow as much flow as the two bleed holes in the middle of the inner body allow. I don’t remember how many there are, I think there’s two. But you could have 37 holes in the bottom, it’s only bypassing as much as the two return holes allow. Which is why I said the holes at the bottom are mostly for flow to the reservoir as they greatly out number the wholes that create a bypass circuit, especially on rebound. On compression they’re needed because the flow is much great with higher shaft speed.

I’m still lost as to how you think the stock gen2 shocks are so terrible. Lmao

Very good points!! I forget how many small bleed holes there were in the mid section of the body aswell..But I live down a 3 mile washboard road surrounded by ride spots so the road is horrible. The stock shocks just jittered the shit out of the truck . In 50,000 miles I had rebuilt and slightly revalved them like 3 times.. each time they got a little better in my opinion.. the rear leaf springs helped with the jittery alot but it would still fly off of the ground in the front, especially after I did the eibach springs. I was never happy with them . .right out of the box the kings made me way happier!! Way less jitter way more rebound damper. Now with the 20 I have to finish the bed rack I bought from rpg and buy the d.i.d so I can mount the aftermarket shocks. Do u have a gen 1 or gen 2??

Opening those made for a good day!!

Bowewelding said:

Very good points!! I forget how many small bleed holes there were in the mid section of the body aswell..But I live down a 3 mile washboard road surrounded by ride spots so the road is horrible. The stock shocks just jittered the shit out of the truck . In 50,000 miles I had rebuilt and slightly revalved them like 3 times.. each time they got a little better in my opinion.. the rear leaf springs helped with the jittery alot but it would still fly off of the ground in the front, especially after I did the eibach springs. I was never happy with them . .right out of the box the kings made me way happier!! Way less jitter way more rebound damper. Now with the 20 I have to finish the bed rack I bought from rpg and buy the d.i.d so I can mount the aftermarket shocks. Do u have a gen 1 or gen 2??

Click to expand...

That is all high speed damper when going over wash board. That is the one area the stock shocks lack in and require some adjustment on the shim stack. Your comments make sense now, but it wasn't because rebound was too fast, it was because of too much high speed compression. We fixed this in my buddies truck with adjusting the shim stack thickness at the fulcrum, and the three shims above it. Rebound doesn't cause jitters or make the truck bounce off the road, compression damper that doesn't allow the tire to move fast enough is what causes that. Especially if the shaft speed is really high and its not letting the shock get to the bump zone when it needs to.

I have a genJuan. And I have three friends with Gen2's.