I just installed my Eibachs and Deavers a few weeks ago. It's really not difficult as long as you are at least have the slightest amount of mechanical inclination. There are a couple youtube videos that were really helpful in understanding the process and all the tools that will be necessary. There are a few other tips and things to watch out for.
1) On the front, after you take the wheels off, remove that metal cap and the bolt underneath of it. That bolt hold the axle assemble into the bearing/hub. If you arn't super careful and let that spindle swing out to far after disconnecting the upper control arm, the axle will come out of the CV inside that rubber boot in the axle assembly. There is a retaining ring that will get unseated inside that boot if the axle gets pulled out of the CV. Don't ask me how I know...
2) Have a couple little ratchet straps or something similar handy for holding the top of the spindle up after disconnecting the upper control arm. This keeps the axle from coming out of the CV, as well as keep the tension off the IWE lines , brake lines, and wheel speed sensor cables.
3) Make sure you have at least 2 jack stands and a floor jack. I also used some wood blocks under the rear axle to keep it supported just high enough that the IWE and break lines did not get pulled on.
4) Getting to 406 ft/lbs for the lower shock bolt is not easy. I didn't feel like spending a ton of money on a torque wrench just for those two bolts so I bought a 4ft breaker bar and a torque adapter. I had a 3/8" torque wrench that goes up to 70 ft/lbs and 1/2" torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lbs for all the other bolts.
5) Don't do it during the summer in Texas unless you can do it in an air conditioned garage... I was in a rush to get it done before a trip.
6) Take the time prior to install to put a couple coats of CRC marine or amsoil HDMP or similar on the deavers. Supposedly they have improved their coating, but it still looks like it could use more improvement to me...
7) I did the front springs by myself, but you will want a second set of hands for the leaf springs, they are heavy and would be fun to get into position and hold on your own.
8) Have a couple extra blades handy for the sawzall. I burnt through a couple cutting the front bolts on the leaf springs. Just be really careful for the gas tank, those things don't like having holes in them.
9) Do not torque the U bolts on the axle until you are certain the pins of the leaf springs are seated into the holes on the axle plates. In one of the videos, he showed he had to kick the side of the leaf spring to get the pins in, mine were good side to side, I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the left side back enough to get the pins in.
Those were the thoughts that came to mind... I will let you know if I remember any others.
What area are you in? I am in the Clear Lake area. I can let you borrow a couple tools like the breaker bar, torque adapter, and 30mm socket so you don't have to buy them.
EDIT: the spindles will want to flop out at you after disconnecting the upper control arms... DON'T let that happen! (see 1 and 2)
1) On the front, after you take the wheels off, remove that metal cap and the bolt underneath of it. That bolt hold the axle assemble into the bearing/hub. If you arn't super careful and let that spindle swing out to far after disconnecting the upper control arm, the axle will come out of the CV inside that rubber boot in the axle assembly. There is a retaining ring that will get unseated inside that boot if the axle gets pulled out of the CV. Don't ask me how I know...
2) Have a couple little ratchet straps or something similar handy for holding the top of the spindle up after disconnecting the upper control arm. This keeps the axle from coming out of the CV, as well as keep the tension off the IWE lines , brake lines, and wheel speed sensor cables.
3) Make sure you have at least 2 jack stands and a floor jack. I also used some wood blocks under the rear axle to keep it supported just high enough that the IWE and break lines did not get pulled on.
4) Getting to 406 ft/lbs for the lower shock bolt is not easy. I didn't feel like spending a ton of money on a torque wrench just for those two bolts so I bought a 4ft breaker bar and a torque adapter. I had a 3/8" torque wrench that goes up to 70 ft/lbs and 1/2" torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lbs for all the other bolts.
5) Don't do it during the summer in Texas unless you can do it in an air conditioned garage... I was in a rush to get it done before a trip.
6) Take the time prior to install to put a couple coats of CRC marine or amsoil HDMP or similar on the deavers. Supposedly they have improved their coating, but it still looks like it could use more improvement to me...
7) I did the front springs by myself, but you will want a second set of hands for the leaf springs, they are heavy and would be fun to get into position and hold on your own.
8) Have a couple extra blades handy for the sawzall. I burnt through a couple cutting the front bolts on the leaf springs. Just be really careful for the gas tank, those things don't like having holes in them.
9) Do not torque the U bolts on the axle until you are certain the pins of the leaf springs are seated into the holes on the axle plates. In one of the videos, he showed he had to kick the side of the leaf spring to get the pins in, mine were good side to side, I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the left side back enough to get the pins in.
Those were the thoughts that came to mind... I will let you know if I remember any others.
What area are you in? I am in the Clear Lake area. I can let you borrow a couple tools like the breaker bar, torque adapter, and 30mm socket so you don't have to buy them.
EDIT: the spindles will want to flop out at you after disconnecting the upper control arms... DON'T let that happen! (see 1 and 2)
