The Last Gen 2 Shock Swap Thread

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ZackZ

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There is a guy in cali kdm shock technology that is converting the gen 2 factory shocks and the gen 2 race series shocks to work with the gen 1. Seems like it could be a good upgrade. He said that in order of upgrades would be factory gen 2 shocks converted, gen 1 factory 3.0 replacements, and then the gen 2 race series conversion. He seemed like a really cool guy and knew what he was talking about. Just another option as the gen 2 take offs are dirt cheap.
 

Browsing

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I just installed the live wire 2020 shocks on my first gen last week. So far, so great! Love these. Ride is much better but I think my shocks needed a rebuild. Upgrade? Maybe. Cheaper than a rebuild? Yep! Picked up the set from a local Ford dealer for $800. Picked up a few inches in the front. Hope the photos help.

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baxzilla

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I just installed the live wire 2020 shocks on my first gen last week. So far, so great! Love these. Ride is much better but I think my shocks needed a rebuild. Upgrade? Maybe. Cheaper than a rebuild? Yep! Picked up the set from a local Ford dealer for $800. Picked up a few inches in the front. Hope the photos help.

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How are you running those without the RPG live valve delete kit?
 

Canuck714

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How are you running those without the RPG live valve delete kit?

The delete kit is only for Gen 2's... There is no electronics to bypass on the Gen 1.
basically if you have a Gen 2 with live valve and you replace the shocks with something else, you need to trick (bypass) the computer so it doesn't throw a code
 

etick3t

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My understanding is the live shock returns to its base valving, - the firmest setting when disconnected from the "brain". Since the gen 1 is heavier in the front it works out well.
The RPG delete kit removes that knob & valve sticking out on the live shocks and adds a fill valve so you can adjust the nitrogen charge. Noting to do with electronics.
https://www.rpgoffroad.com/product/2019-up-raptor-live-valve-delete/
 

BlueOvalF22

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The bucket mod to run these right is back ordered for quite a while do to COVID.

No way are these a simple bolt in.. Sorry.

It's now going to be Baja/Brenthal stock length lower arms, Camburg 1.25 tubular UCA, Baja/Brenthal front king Bumpstop, king ext res dual rate coilovers with a SVC LT kit style hat and a 3 tube front bypass shock at the end of the build. I might d*ck around with upgraded CV's and lowering the axle to put ride height CV angle at a better place than where they land when the front is leveled with a +1 rear.

Because of the timing of things like moving and Covid backorders on shocks.. I've got 2gen shocks to run temporarily.

So I'm thinking do the BK LCA's and BK king bumps or weld in Icon bumps like Camburg did with their dual shock LCA.

To run the 2nd gen fronts, disassemble, cut down and machine a 2nd gen shock shaft shorter, reassemble.

Put the 1G hat and spring on with NO RUBBER BUMP STOP at all. Why?, because it makes room to swing the longer shock body and also because of the N2/hydro bump stop.

Over the long term, what I'm sure will happen with these shocks is that a shock shop will tear them down, machine the shock body with an additional lower perch clip groove, delete the live valve stub, and when they reassemble swap in a modified shortened shaft. Then tell people to run an external bump stop.
 
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