Husky Wheel Liners 95 Bucks on Amazon

Install was straight forward, just gotta flex them into place. Here are pics of mine installed, i like that they cover most of the upper shock body, but also the metal wheel wheel and inside of bed-as i drive a lot of desert and gravel roads. I was able to catch just a glimpse of the shock on the passenger side pic.

Oh, and this is the site i got them from when truck was new in June 2018...https://www.rvautoparts.com/Huskyliner-79151-Wwg-17-19-F-150-Raptor_p_350378.html

Something that worked well for me when installing these was to leave them out in the hot sun for an hour or so prior to install. Made them a lot more flexible and easier to bend into place. Definitely undo the fender flare bolts before you get started. They can be a bit of a pain, but if you take your time it's not too bad.

Ditto on the hot sun. I did the first one without leaving it in the sun but it was a warm day. The second one was much easier after leaving it in the sun. Mine didn’t come with the parts bag. I reached out to Husky and they quickly rushed them to me. Note that on my 2020 the holes didn’t line up. I had to go to the hardware store to get a second set of the clips the screws thread in to. I still need to install the second screws.

I installed the Ford factory set on my previous F-150 (Ford doesn’t offer these for the Raptor). I found that on a rocky road, it significantly reduces the noise from rocks flipped up from the tires in the bare-metal wheel wells. I recommend ‘em.

they have new ones that don't cover the shocks

I'm planning on installing +3 rear leafs and Icon hyd. bump stops next year. Anyone know if these will interfere?

Mariners Fan said:

I'm planning on installing +3 rear leafs and Icon hyd. bump stops next year. Anyone know if these will interfere?

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I don’t know, but I can’t see them being hard to trim as needed.

Ok, I installed one side this evening and I was installing the Rokblokz mud flaps at the same time. It was cold and the plastic was not very pliable. First off, I had to trim the lower edges as shown in the pictures, actually the rear one needed another 1/4" from the first picture. The pieces were too long no matter how I tried to fit them. I was focused on lining up the rear hole first. I had to clearance near the rear hole to clear the metal nut for the middle hole of the mud flaps (third picture). I also had to open up the front edge hole some to get it to line up right. I only use the front hole with the slot nut on the inside, I don’t want to drill for the second hole. Others have said they had to redrill this hole, I just pushed the inner part of the guard around until I could put the screw in. The last pic shows the front fit with my cut, there is a 3/16" gap there.

For fitting the top between the fender and flare, on the second one I won't be fully removing the screws to keep from pushing the speed nuts back. If I ever take these off (for air bumpstops) I will notch the liner around each of the fender flares screws so the lip could slide in farther. I did do some cutting on that outer edge prior to install to level it out, there were some sections that were significantly longer on that outer edge.

Here is a shots of the mud flaps installed slid in as far as it will go. They could be slid out another 1/2" or so.

I did the second liner today with the same end cuts as pictured above and finally figured out exactly what they need. The outer edge that goes between the fender and the fender flare is left uneven and too long. I used a belt sander and shaved it down to 1-1/8” except for the ends where it needs to taper near the screw holes. When I have time I will remove them and sand that edge down to 1 inch. On the other side I cleaned it up some, but didn’t realize that dimension is somewhat critical for a good fit, so the liners aren’t as flush with the outside of the inner fender area as the second attempt. Once they are trimmed the install isn’t bad. Another tip on the install, don’t fully remove the factory flare screws across the top, that will keep their speed nuts from being pushed out of place when forcing the plastic in there. I used a plastic wedge to pull out the flare and get the lip slid in. I skipped the second screw on the inside that requires drilling, they are plenty solid without it.

Also, these will be very easy to trim for bump stops when the time comes. The pocket in the back is almost a perfect template. One could probably bolt a piece of metal or even a carpenters square to the two holes as a cutting guide.