PSA....change out your factory lug nuts before it is too late 31k miles

EricM said:

I agree that they probably did **** up the tool. The factory lug wrench is for emergencies only and is cheap crap. If you damaged a lug using that crappy tool, it's not surprising. That tool is typically either stamped metal formed into a hex, or it's the even crappier "tire iron" style with horrible tolerances. Use a proper sized deep well socket and a breaker bar and you will never have issues. I have never used a factory tool on any lug nut now that I think about it. I only use the hooked/rubber coated end to pry off center caps.

Ford's lugnuts have a stainless steel outer shell to keep them from getting as rusty as normal chromed lugs get. If you beat the crap out of that thin outer shell with an impact and/or a loose fitting socket, it's going to roll over at the corners. They don't swell. The rolled corners are what makes it stick in the socket. Again, use a proper sized deep well socket and a breaker bar and you will never have issues. You can use impact tools no problem, but only if you have a tight fitting deep well socket on the lugnut. If the offical size of the lug is 21mm, but a 13/16 socket actually fits tight with no slop- using the 21mm will destroy the lugs. You have to get a socket that fits tight with no slop, and never use the "well this is close and it will remove them so it's good enough" size. If you do that one time, the tight fitting socket will never fit again and it just gets worse and worse as you used oversized sockets to accommodate the previous damage.

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I agree with most of what you say, but in my case the outer portion absolutely did swell. If that's not the best word to use, then they became "loose" on the main nut underneath. Some would move back and forth on the main part of the nut. This after a few tire rotations where the tire store used an impact to remove the nuts. I became aware when I tried to remove a flat tire and i had to drive the socket on with a hammer. On one lug it actually tore the outer cover. What a hassle. Replace the factory lugs and be done with it.

I probably shouldn’t.


How many sets of factory lugs could you have for the cost of the aftermarket?

smurfslayer said:

I probably shouldn’t.


How many sets of factory lugs could you have for the cost of the aftermarket?

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1

correction.... 0.5

@Oldfart does polishing your nuts shorten the life of them?

Raptor50 said:

@Oldfart does polishing your nuts shorten the life of them?

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You'll be fine as long as you don't do it more than twice a day. At least that's what I tell myself when I limit my polishing to twice a day.

Well, my grand idea to do a side-by-side comparison of the McGards and Gorillas is a no-go. The Gorillas are in a shrink-wrapped box that I have no way of returning to like-new if I open it. Sigh...anyway, since I have both and can eyeball the McGards in their clear plastic clamshell, that's what I'm going with. I like their quality and heft, and they fit a 21mm socket perfectly...no slop at all. SO far so good. Did the drivers rear wheel first, no real issue, interestingly a 7/8th by 6-sided socket seemed to fit best. The other four wheels...not go great. Some (a very few) the 21mm will fit, some seem to want a 7/8, but none seem to be as large as 22mm. Only the ones that accept 21mm seem to have good grip, enough to get them loose. I tried hammering on a 13/16th x6 sided socket on one, and wound up destroying it (the socket split in 3 places---cheap Taiwanese junk). I don't want to be in a position of having some but not all at least loosened before I jack up a wheel. And yes, I have used anti-seize compound on them. I do not have an impact wrench. Anyone have any hints for getting the non-cooperative ones off? I could try a local tire store if I needed to, I guess. I know some won't install aftermarket parts though (corporate liability and all). Would a Ford dealership do this? Or, is it possible to somehow tear into the ss cover, get it off and get the basic steel nut exposed? Or should I just forgo the dealer/tire shop cost and use that to get an inexpensive impact from HF and use that as the original poster did? Might be nice to finally have an impact driver...

Get a longer lever.

Not "cheap" but not as "expensive" as some. Was one of the old school pneumatic only guys. This has been one of the best bang for the buck products I've ever owned and have been turning wrenches both professionally and privately as long or longer than many have been alive. 650 lb ft of lithium powered torque coming off. Actually got it in a deal with the impact drill. Never looked back. Its swapped axles among many other things trail side.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-...s-Impact-Wrench-1-Battery-Included/1000604927

First off, if you don't have a 1/2 inch impact wrench you are doing it wrong.

Guarantee you will never have grand memories of the good old days with a lug wrench.

Even my 110 pound DD *****'d girlfriend can use one, and that is saying something.


My dewalt can go up to 750 ft lbs. basically zero issue removing anything, ever.