GEN 2 Math behind overlanding: Exceed truck weight limit?

sixshooter_45 said:

I done some research and I'd personally wouldn't recommend GoFast campers.

There are smilar but much higher quality campers out there albeit more expensive.

Click to expand...

What don't you like about them? I did a lot of research as well and have talked to several people that own them and they all seem to love them.

I know there are other options out there as I personally prefer the AT Habitat but its also 25-35% more in cost, and I believe more weight.

Well first of all they video they made was stating that the side covers couldn't support the weight of the max trax boards, I suppose because the struts weren't strong enough, plus the they mentioned the roof weight could only support 250 or 300 lbs, they explained how you had to be careful opening and closing the sides.

It sounded like something I'd rather stay away from so I did some digging and sure enough there were a lot of complaints about how cheaply it was constructed.

For the price and as long as it will work for you, I say go for it.

But I believe in quality and the buy once cry once theory. I cant remember the other higher quality manufacturers names because I've been researching a lot on both camper shell, trailers, etc. and there's a lot out there.

The ones I was looking at were around $10,000 to $15,000.00 which is the way I'd go if I decide to go that route.

Thought I would chime in. I installed a Yakima HD rack with sidebars for additional support, Mounted my James Baroud tent. I originally had concerns the Yakima may not be strong enough to handle the RTT on rough roads, but currently have 18000km on this setup as is...many of those offroad or rough forestry roads, with zero issues.
I am also using the Decked system, which I love. able to keep my dry food, cooking gear, recoverygear/tools, camping chairs etc out of site and locked with the tailgate.
Still running stock suspension....slight sag in the ass with full load- Food, Fuel, Water etc

Attached a couple of pics from last 2 weeks in Yukon - 2 people camping for most of the trip

GordoJay said:

Both might be wrong ... from the specs on Ford.com, GVWR for a 2020 SCREW is 7050, while curb weight is 5700. That's a difference of 1350. Either way, I'm looking at three guys for three days or two guys for a week. Three guys for a week is going to be a bit much.

Click to expand...

You can only go by the yellow sticker on your truck's drivers side door opening. That is your payload. There is no way to ever change that official number. It accounts for all optional equipment installed on your truck. All of that will deduct from the base package truck 1350 number.

Payload certainly does include the driver. What you have planned would clearly be overloaded, as you have figured out.

Most people just say f-it and roll out over the limit. However, you very well could be 100% liable in an accident by exceeding the rated load of the vehicle- if that were to come up. It's not too difficult to have a wreck result in millions of dollars of property damage and medial bills nowadays. It's a minuscule risk, so the question is what is your tolerance level for that risk? Probably not much, given you are asking the right questions already.

EricM said:

Most people just say f-it and roll out over the limit. However, you very well could be 100% liable in an accident by exceeding the rated load of the vehicle- if that were to come up...

Click to expand...

Hadn't thought of that. Thanks. My big reasons for avoiding it were safety and not wanting to blow up the rear springs or bend the frame on a bump. I'm thinking that a lot of the guys who have had the rear springs take a permanent sag probably overloaded them. That's easy to do without exceeding the payload limit if the weight is too far back.

Doesn't payload factor tires into the equation? The stock KO2s (which ******* BTW) are a C rating? Soft sidewall, lower payload? Or am I wrong?

nikhsub1 said:

Doesn't payload factor tires into the equation? The stock KO2s (which ******* BTW) are a C rating? Soft sidewall, lower payload? Or am I wrong?

Click to expand...

The sticker is it. That's the payload number.

Tire shops will not install tires with a load index rating less than stock.

Installing tires with a higher than stock load index rating will give you higher load capacities, but at a higher inflated pressure. It only gives you more headroom though, you cannot actually increase the payload rating of the truck in any way.

Gen 2s do have load range C tires though, you are correct. But they are not the limitation. The payload number is.

EricM said:

Gen 2s do have load range C tires though, you are correct. But they are not the limitation. The payload number is.

Click to expand...

Then what exactly is the limitation? I don't get it? If you put Deaver HD's on there, and some E rated tires, why on earth would payload not be safely increased? I know what the sticker says but I'm talking mechanics here. Curious more than anything really.

nikhsub1 said:

Then what exactly is the limitation? I don't get it? If you put Deaver HD's on there, and some E rated tires, why on earth would payload not be safely increased? I know what the sticker says but I'm talking mechanics here. Curious more than anything really.

Click to expand...

Safety **** stuff. People mod trucks all the time and tow stupid stuff. I see 1 ton bro-dozers towing dump trailers loaded to the gils, truck's rear axle stacked on blocks, bald tires, you name it.
If you're going to worry about it, just have good insurance and an umbrella policy, they are cheap. I carry one just because. If you cause an accident, even overloaded, your insurance company will cover you. People will say that they may not, but in regular practice, you WILL be covered.
The payload number is there for road tax purposes and for the manufacturer to cover their ass against stupid. Like everything else, it's about best judgement and personal responsibility.

nikhsub1 said:

Then what exactly is the limitation? I don't get it? If you put Deaver HD's on there, and some E rated tires, why on earth would payload not be safely increased? I know what the sticker says but I'm talking mechanics here. Curious more than anything really.

Click to expand...

Because you cannot change it. The sticker is what it is. It cannot be changed no matter what you bolt on the truck. IF you need to carry more payload (legally), you need a different truck. A lot of first time truck owners are surprised that mods do not increase the legal load capacity. Who would certify all of that? It's simply not feasible.

There is no hard part that is THE actual limit. Ford determines the number mainly based on market research. The truck will always be quite a bit more capable than the official number- but legally, it's not.