greatone99
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the audio control lc2 , how do u incorporate this to help with the bass roll off? sounds like u can steal the sub signal coming out of the stock amp ,run it into the lc2 then to the sub ?
DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00
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I just installed an LC2i, amp for the sub and upgraded the driver in the factory sub enclosure.
The LC2i will basically maintain a consistent low frequency signal to your amp and interpret when bass roll off takes place and correct it.
Question for you guys.
With this said. I am actually not detecting any bass roll off and I haven’t adjusted the LC2i for this. I went through the setup instructions and just can’t seem to detect any to adjust to. I did long ago set the system with forscan to aftermarket subwoofer. Can this option really not allow roll off to take place.
Otherwise the LC2i maybe doing its thing without having to dial it in. Any ideas?
greatone99
Full Access Member
how does it sound bass wise
.50 percent improvement ?I may go this route im looking far an improvement in bass ,ive already improved the front with a set of focal components .may wrap the sub this weekend .I assume all the wiring is back there for the lc2 ,except the 12v and ground. any pics of the install. I assume the b and o sub signal u redirect to the lc2 ,then wire the lc2 to the sub . basically in series
.50 percent improvement ?I may go this route im looking far an improvement in bass ,ive already improved the front with a set of focal components .may wrap the sub this weekend .I assume all the wiring is back there for the lc2 ,except the 12v and ground. any pics of the install. I assume the b and o sub signal u redirect to the lc2 ,then wire the lc2 to the sub . basically in series
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You need an amp in between the lc2i and sub.
Once you get your power and ground cables to the rear of the cab, from the battery. The rest is cake. I admit when you leave the stock components behind the rear seat, it doesn’t leave you a lot of room for a total redesign. I can get you a pick of what I did, at least for now.
Running 4ga power and ground to the back at least once you done it, is pretty easy. You just have to open up an access hole in the grommet behind the main fuse box on the passenger side. It’s a little tight and this is the worst part of the install.
I’m still not done tuning things and I have to wrap my enclosure as well. That factory polymer enclosure is just such a dreaded thing. Way to easy to over power.
Im thinking unless I can make more headway with this thing, I would expect 30-45% improvement overall. Definitely an enhancement in more bass, but I would like it cleaner and more controlled. The punch I want will only come from at least a sealed 10”. But I will maximize and run this setup for a little while anyway. Bandages get you so far. Learned long ago.
greatone99
Full Access Member
what did u use for an amp ? brand and watts
I had a JL Audio Slash 500/1 on hand. It ran my sub in the last truck. 300+\- watts RMS is more than enough for this Kicker in the stock enclosure. I have my gain turned way down currently. The sub is running at 4ohms. I have the dual 2 ohm coil version.
greatone99
Full Access Member
I think I may just bite the bullit and buy a zen and a amp .I assume the b and o amp has a power and ground wire ?
Yeah you could just go straight into a whole replacement. Get a 5 channel amp, all new speakers and a new sub. The Zen is key!
You can’t use the B&O power wires for the new amp. I believe it will power the Zen off the harness.
You can power the Zen from the stock harness but NavTv actually recommends not doing that. They recommend running it basically directly off the battery via relay.
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