Rear shock compressed length.

Hi, new here to the forum and new to the Raptor. I'm not new to lifted/prerunner trucks though. I've read many posts about removing the rear block and using just the stock springs, or upgrading to Deavers or Nationals. Some people modify the bumpstop position while others do not. So my question, has anyone cycled the rear suspension to see if the shocks compress enough to cycle without the block, using the axle tube itself for the bumpstop contact point?

Welcome aboard!

Regarding your question.... I believe BStoner ran his for a while without the block and damaged the shock. Maybe he'll chime in.

I'm running Deaver +1 pack. Too much up travel for the Deavers and stock bumpstop using the axle as the contact. The bump does strike the axle but the shock takes most of the final few inches. There are some companies that have bumpstop strike pads for the axle that are raised a couple of inches.

Not sure about stock springs with no block.

I'd go with an after market air bumo system with frame support personally. The stock one are a joke if you are going to use it of road in any kind of fun way! I'm running the RGP kit w/ 2.5" Fox bumps.

Conejoracer said:

Hi, new here to the forum and new to the Raptor. I'm not new to lifted/prerunner trucks though. I've read many posts about removing the rear block and using just the stock springs, or upgrading to Deavers or Nationals. Some people modify the bumpstop position while others do not. So my question, has anyone cycled the rear suspension to see if the shocks compress enough to cycle without the block, using the axle tube itself for the bumpstop contact point?

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So do you own a Raptor ? The big concern here is in extreme off road use some have experienced the rear frame bending. Some say bad design, ect. (we won't go there) Depends on what your using it for, for mild to wild off road use some type of frame stiffener is recommended, I personally like the RPG design (there are many to choose from, RPG, SDHQ, Outlaw, ect and $ to consider ). Does that help any ?

Conejoracer said:

Hi, new here to the forum and new to the Raptor. I'm not new to lifted/prerunner trucks though. I've read many posts about removing the rear block and using just the stock springs, or upgrading to Deavers or Nationals. Some people modify the bumpstop position while others do not. So my question, has anyone cycled the rear suspension to see if the shocks compress enough to cycle without the block, using the axle tube itself for the bumpstop contact point?

Click to expand...

Hello Conejoracer,
We spent a lot of time examining the potential of increasing the rear wheel travel. National Spring supplied us with a mock up main spring that allowed us to accurately cycle the rear wheel travel. There is a problem though when you attempt to increase the bump travel, the Fox Internal By Pass shock becomes your compression stop. NOT A GOOD THING. The Fox Aluminum Eyelet smashes into your Rod Guide assembly. On the Fox Shox, you damage your eyelet and rod guide seals. On your chassis, the shock mounts start to rip off. After installing one of our own Stage 2 Fox Air-Bump kit we saw this for our own eyes and of the effects of it. It is key to make sure that you obtain the maximum amount of wheel travel without ripping the shocks apart or tearing off chassis mounts. During a Stage 1 install on a 2010 F150 2WD kit, we took some more pictures of the rear suspension. This 2WD F150 is NOT running a block but does have a little bit different Bump Stop. Taller in height atfull compression and rubber... Defiantly Rubber. Also note that the OE Ford shocks are still on and have a much shorter compressed length then the OE Fox Shox.... Please see the pictures for reference. In Conclusion;1. We do not recommend that you remove the OE Ford Raptor Leaf Spring block and Microcellular Jounce Stop unless you are going to upgrade to a Stage 2 kit or Stage 3 kit.2. If you do decide to obtain a air bump kit, remove the blocks and stay with the factory leafs your truck will sit about 2.75" Lower then factory in the rear.Pic of normal F-150 with no block resulting in OE bump stop impacting the rear axle tube



pic of Raptor with OE leafs and Block removed.

Hope this helped answer any questions you have. Feel free to call us and discuss.

Jarrett
Raptor Performance Group

Stock Raptor FOX - SVT Rear Shocks

Hey guys. the rear shocks are designed to use almost all of the travel of the shock. YOU MUST use the stock "Jounce Bumper". The shock is designed to bottom out on the factory "Jounce" bumper and NOT the Shock. The other option is - There are a few reputable companies making a new hydraulic bump system that will also help support the frame. Outlaw, SDHQ and look at RPG's kit - like Bstoner has. I went with Raptizzle, Bstoner, Raptor Addict and the guys from RPG to Barstow this weekend. Barstow is known for being one of the roughest Off Road Race Tracks and that is why we all went there. There was a total of (6) Raptors and we wanted to meet the guys from RPG and see their new products. I must say the RPG bump system is "Built FORD Tough" and looks to perform well. The guys at RPG also promote the National Springs. I have used both the stock SCREW Springs and the Deavers. The Deavers are very progressive and work much better than the stock springs for Off Road Use. The National appeared to look to work much like the Deavers. I am doing High Performance Shock Valving for the factory FOX SVT Shocks on the Raptor and I loved the Deavers for Off Road. I do realize that most Raptor owners have the stock springs so I am dialing in the shocks for the best overall performance On Road as well as Off Road for the factory Raptor springs as well. The weekend was very successful...

Well this is getting interesting, seems we lost our original poster but lets continue with this technical issue.
So what results, failures, or new ideas were produced in this test session. Seems some key players are working very hard. Wish I could join in the fun.

Thanks for the replies, and great pics from slash X too.

Nothing like a newbie dragging back a ancient post, has anybody properly sorted out the shock issue when lowering the back of a Raptor to make it level or whatever?
I am considering either shortening the shock shaft to put it back in the center of it's travel, or using those questionable shock drop brackets.
I have successfully shortened shock shafts on racecars, fairly simple, but on these trucks I dont know if there are reasons it cant be done, the ends are usually induction hardened, so you do risk snapping the end off, once you cut and re-thread further down.
Please dont beat me up about dropping the rear, it's not to level it, it's about me having to load my 140lb 9000 watt ebike with my old wore out skeleton, I needed the back down as much as I could safely go, and a new truck is not really a option.
I did search fairly well before posting this, that's how I found this thread.

It seems like if you have the fab skills to shorten a shock it would be no trick to just move the shock mount up 2"? There is enough room in there, you will need to modify the fender brace. I would think air bump stops would be an absolute must though, these trucks are pretty easy to bottom out with the 2" block.