POSS GEN 1 Owner Roush stage 2

How you all doing? Been looking for used Gen 1’s for almost a year now. Well I finally found a 2013 with Roush stage 2 upgrades for a good deal. SC was installed by a ford dealer. Anything I should be looking for? Truck is exceptionally taken care of and looks clean. Thank you and hope to be a part of the GEN 1 fam!

In general this is a good list

2014RubyRed said:

Here are a few things that I look for:

Underneath:

- cab bottom (around drain holes) for rust/corrosion
- inside the rear bumper
- dirt build up in the skid plates and the transmission braces

Engine Bay:

- Power steering pump, lines for leaks
- tie rods for tightness
- Steering linkage tight

Suspension:

- Rear shock mounts for cracks
- All shocks inspected for leaks
- Rear leaf springs for cracks / missing parts

Cab:

- Check behind the rubber door seals for rust / corrosion
- Wiring. Check the pass through wires for condition. Look under the panels for weird wiring.
- Fuse box for obvious damage
- Seat operation. Heater and cooler working.


The bottom of these trucks will tell you how hard the truck has been played with. i wouldn't necessarily rule out a modded truck, as long as it was done right. Would rather have one with all the bells and whistles as most of these mods are designed to protect them from damage.

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With the supercharger, check the belt to make sure it's still in good condition and know what size it is for a spare one.

Listen to the blower while truck is running( in park or neutral lol). Is it making any weird noises?

Maybe ask/get a compression check for peace of mind?

I've had a roush raptor before, they are pretty stout for the most part. Seems what goes first is the oil pump gears than sending a rod through the block. But that's with sudden RPM change/wheelhop etc and even then not guaranteed to occur.

Is there an invoice to the install? Did they keep OEM plugs or are the spark plugs 1 or two degrees cooler? Is it the canned roush tune or does the truck have a tuner and it was custom tuned at the time of install or down the road?


It's not a 13 Terrain Scab, is it?

If it looks good overall and you really got a hard on for this one,,spend $100 and take it to an Independent Shop for a PPI...I bought my 2014 1500 miles away from me and never even drove it....photos and a 99.5% out of 100% on the PPI I set up at shop close to owner was all I needed...was on the Transporter a week later and I've never looked back,except for thanking the seller for being a stand up guy and honest...BEST FREAKING Vehicle I ever owned..and more fun than a barrel of monkeys..!

Appreciate all the info fellas!! It’s being brought to me on Thursday possibly. Roughly 3.5 hrs away. I do not have a mechanic but i will do my best to look at everything mentioned. Truck has 64k miles.

John813 said:

In general this is a good list


With the supercharger, check the belt to make sure it's still in good condition and know what size it is for a spare one.

Listen to the blower while truck is running( in park or neutral lol). Is it making any weird noises?

Maybe ask/get a compression check for peace of mind?

I've had a roush raptor before, they are pretty stout for the most part. Seems what goes first is the oil pump gears than sending a rod through the block. But that's with sudden RPM change/wheelhop etc and even then not guaranteed to occur.

Is there an invoice to the install? Did they keep OEM plugs or are the spark plugs 1 or two degrees cooler? Is it the canned roush tune or does the truck have a tuner and it was custom tuned at the time of install or down the road?


It's not a 13 Terrain Scab, is it?

Click to expand...

It is a 13 crew cab with 64k miles in St Petersburg, Fl

GEN_ONE said:

It is a 13 crew cab with 64k miles in St Petersburg, Fl

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ah ok, so not my old one lol.

Best of luck with this potential purchase. 64k miles is brand new for the 6.2 lol

94K on Roush Stage 2 with the Roush tune with no engine problems. Very dependable truck.

I bought my 14 Roush April last year with 61k on it. Currently just turned over 68k and no problems so far. These trucks are tough.

Appreciate the feedback. Pics attached

Looks clean....

I just rolled 113,000 miles on my Roush, still running strong and mine gets run hard. I have had zero engine issues, but have torn up a transmission and two rear ends!! Converter disintegrated at 80,000 miles. On the Diff...One was Fords fault @ 12,000 miles, not sure what caused the gaulling on the spider cross shafts on the second 113,000. Good reason to believe high HP and open diff when on the street created to much heat.

Anyway, there are a few things that you will want to look into to make sure that you have a long, happy life with yours.

1. Spark Plugs. Regardless of what tune is in the truck, the factory plug is the WRONG heat range. You will want to step it down. Most of us run the NGK 6510 (LTR7-IX-11)

2. Tune. The Roush tune uses fuel to control heat/detonation in the motor. This is dangerous and terrible on fuel. It also makes the drivability not so desirable. I am a big fan of JDM for the Roush. Contact @JimIII@JDM for a set up.

3. Blower Belt. You can run a Gates extreme duty (green) K061251HD. Its a 1/4 inch shorter than the Roush belt and will not slip off. You do not nead the FEAD shield that Roush sold to prevent the belt from flying off. The belt issues were mostly from extremem load/unload situations like wheel hop.

4. Wheel Hop... I run Deaver +3 rear springs. This stopped wheel hop and I run off road quite a bit so made sense. If you plan to stay on the street, look into a traction bar of some sort.

5. Fuel. Run good fuel!!! I have always run Shell 93. Its always fresh, never had a fuel issue and my truck seems to like it. Not sure how she knows, but my truck does not like Costco or Valero Super.. It will run like shit, feel slower and get worse mileage. Something in it, does not like my truck.

6. Clean air and oil .. Your truck will thank you! I have been on 5/30 for a while. I know I know the oil cap and manual say 5/20. With the added pressure that a blower puts on the crank, i would rather have a little heavier oil in it. I change mine way too often, but after a hard play day, she deserves it. Also, if you are in a dryer climate, consider moving to a dry filter element. They screen a finer particle of dirt than the oiled K&N, and wont dirty up your MAF meter either.

Just a couple things to ponder... Good luck and have fun.