Eibach Pro-lift springs installed with pics and comments

Hey Kyle,
I brought it in to my mechanic and had him check the torque on the lower shock bolts and strut top bolts and he found nothing loose. I haven’t had the opportunity to really put it to the test since then. I have not heard anything resembling that same clunk again but I can’t tell you for sure that it’s been resolved yet either. I do still believe the Eibach springs ride great and even if the clunk does exist, I will most probably keep them installed anyway...just be mindful of the clunk if and when I hit some “whoops” that could cause the shocks to fully unload. That’s about all I got for now....

Wojciech Gierczynski said:

I let them do it. Guy that works on my car at my Local Roush/Ford dealer is always same person. He is great tech who only works on Roush Vehicles. He just installed Eibach's up front but dont like the look so going to install Icons with OPTION 1 in rear which should pick up the rear 1 inch

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My ass end sagged after I installed the Eibachs and before I had my rear springs done. My truck has a cap and drawers though, which is a fair amount of weight difference from stock. My Adaptive cruise and lane-keeping were definitely off due to the difference in rake. With the Icons on the rear, I'm back to a more neutral position and everything is happy again. I think the calibration is highly dependent on angles. If you move the suspension much it doesn't hurt to recalibrate. It might not be needed for everyone, but it's not hard to get it fixed right.

For you DIY guys, what spring compressor are you using to swap the springs out?

lateralis said:

For you DIY guys, what spring compressor are you using to swap the springs out?

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To go along with that, what are you guys using to torque the bottom shock bolt to 406 FtLb? Should I just get it really tight, and then find a shop with professional tools to actually torque it down to the right value?

lateralis said:

For you DIY guys, what spring compressor are you using to swap the springs out?

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Honestly not worth taking a risk doing it yourself with non-industrial tools. These springs are kill-you-level strong. My buddy with an at home shop bought this just to help me do the swap:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MMLG9ZU/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Ski4Ever said:

To go along with that, what are you guys using to torque the bottom shock bolt to 406 FtLb? Should I just get it really tight, and then find a shop with professional tools to actually torque it down to the right value?

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Bring it to a shop with pro tools. That bolt has to be unbelievably tight and will likely clunk if not torqued correctly.

Ski4Ever said:

To go along with that, what are you guys using to torque the bottom shock bolt to 406 FtLb? Should I just get it really tight, and then find a shop with professional tools to actually torque it down to the right value?

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What @CHMP said is correct.

3/4 Drive Torque Wrench that's nearly 4 ft long and goes up to 600 ft/lbs is what I use for the lower shock bolt on the Raptor and the Trac bar on our F-250.

I just went to my buddys Offroad shop he let me use his branick wall mounted spring compressor. The top hat has to be rotated some during reassembly to line the top bolts and lower shock bolt back up where they go. Just need to throw them back in the truck now

Looks like my truck is a little nose high rite now. Going to drive it 200 miles or so then get it aligned. If it’s still nose high might try to add a little taller block in the rear to make it level

Kyle Nezat said:

Looks like my truck is a little nose high rite now. Going to drive it 200 miles or so then get it aligned. If it’s still nose high might try to add a little taller block in the rear to make it level

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Out of curiosity, why are you going to drive it 200 miles before getting the alignment? Wouldn’t you want it done ASAP?

Kyle Nezat said:

Looks like my truck is a little nose high rite now. Going to drive it 200 miles or so then get it aligned. If it’s still nose high might try to add a little taller block in the rear to make it level

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Mine was 1/4" nose high on the pside, 1/2" dside initially. I'm a little over 1000 since the swap now, I'm almost level but not quite. Honestly feel like it will settle to dead level when I get to 5000 miles. Word of advice, get ready to install this camber kit to be able to dial to Eibachs recommended camber of -.4:

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/specialty-products-camber-bracket-kit-86250/_/R-FCMW-86250

My alignment shop was able to get it right on the dside, but -.6 is the best they could do on the pside without that camber kit.