Full compression fender clearance?

maddrama said:

notice the "It may or may not help you" I was just letting him know what I am going through and what its doing with the offset I have with a 12.5 and a 10 wheel. I didn't know there was a right or wrong response. If it does help, great, If it doesn't then we all keep moving on with life, Its not the end of the world but thanks for letting me know what he was asking lol I appreciate it.

anyway @Donmatteo I hope you sort it out and get the answer your looking for bud.
Cheers!!

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Not me mate. Was helping someone else.

maddrama said:

notice the "It may or may not help you" I was just letting him know what I am going through and what its doing with the offset I have with a 12.5 and a 10 wheel. I didn't know there was a right or wrong response. If it does help, great, If it doesn't then we all keep moving on with life, Its not the end of the world but thanks for letting me know what he was asking lol I appreciate it.

anyway @Donmatteo I hope you sort it out and get the answer your looking for bud.
Cheers!!

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No worries, just wanted to make sure the OP knew he pretty much has to stay with stock wheel dimensions if he really wants to go full compression. Most of our truck never see it, so being a little out of spec helps a lot with the looks while maintaining a nice comfortable ride for everyday driving.

Donmatteo said:

So this was about 6 months ago from the pictures up top to these taken just now. I cleaned the inside so you can see it better. they are posted in a clockwise rotation from 9 to 2. Stock everything. Suspension, tires, pressures, and wheels



View attachment 140866View attachment 140867View attachment 140868View attachment 140870View attachment 140869

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Thanks for the pics, it looks like the tire diameter here is the reason for the rub. I'm wondering if the +20 offset would really add much more to the equation. Any thoughts?

Thanks again

TXRaptor said:

No worries, just wanted to make sure the OP knew he pretty much has to stay with stock wheel dimensions if he really wants to go full compression. Most of our truck never see it, so being a little out of spec helps a lot with the looks while maintaining a nice comfortable ride for everyday driving.

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That's crazy that some Raptors endure that, We have SideXsides that we put through some punishment up in the poconos here in PA and over in NJ but I can imagine doing that to a truck. I guess out west with dunes it must be a blast. Unfortunately we don't have that environment. Sounds have... Enjoy

stop worrying.

Pull the liners, Trim the honeycomb structure and clearance the fender support gussets until you have no rubbing.

Put the liners back in. Use a heatgun to recontour them so they hug the newly clearanced under structure.

No one will know that you ever changed anything and everyone will want to touch you because you're running 37s with no rubbing.

Icon wheels seem to have the best offsets to minimize rubbing on stock-width trucks.

Also, you don't need anything wider than an 8.5 wheel.

10" wide is for brodozers.

I no longer really have "inner rear fenderwells"

My factory besides have been gone for so long that I don't remember if I had any rubbing.

a little rub at full compression in the rear won't really kill anything, but you may tear the flare off if you're running low tire pressures.

aftermarket bump stops in the rear will help keep the tires out of the sheetmetal, unless you go full send, full-time. Then you shoulda done +2s.

zombiekiller said:

stop worrying.

Pull the liners, Trim the honeycomb structure and clearance the fender support gussets until you have no rubbing.

Put the liners back in. Use a heatgun to recontour them so they hug the newly clearanced under structure.

No one will know that you ever changed anything and everyone will want to touch you because you're running 37s with no rubbing.

Icon wheels seem to have the best offsets to minimize rubbing on stock-width trucks.

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Zombiekiller, read your entire build thread. Thank you for taking the time to document all that. I learned a ton. Based on your advice to the OP re: ICON wheels and 37's, I think that's the way i'll go. I have a stock suspension and stock body 2014 SCREW on low-perch with the tail lowered an inch (shackles) because I like a low truck. I do run off-road (deserts of Utah) but I'm a novice and don't really tax the truck's capabilities. If I do as you recommend to the OP on this thread, will I also be okay with ICON's and 37's? As I use the truck as a daily driver, is there much on-road difference between the BFG 35's and 37's?

TDBrown said:

Zombiekiller, read your entire build thread. Thank you for taking the time to document all that. I learned a ton. Based on your advice to the OP re: ICON wheels and 37's, I think that's the way i'll go. I have a stock suspension and stock body 2014 SCREW on low-perch with the tail lowered an inch (shackles) because I like a low truck. I do run off-road (deserts of Utah) but I'm a novice and don't really tax the truck's capabilities. If I do as you recommend to the OP on this thread, will I also be okay with ICON's and 37's? As I use the truck as a daily driver, is there much on-road difference between the BFG 35's and 37's?

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there is a big difference in offroad performance. (for the better). On-road, you realistically won't notice a big difference.

If you look at the EXO footage from past runs, Almost all of the "Crew" trucks run Icon suspension, icon wheels and 37s.

If you consider that the EXO crew trucks, generally see 35-50K OFFROAD miles before they get cleaned up and sold, Id say it is a solid option.

You could also go SVC/Fox and expect the same quality and durability. I like the SVC bump stop setup the best.

the big difference between Icon and SVC/fox is that the Rear RXT shocks give you a little bit more travel than the Fox equivalents in the rear.

I'd opt to bring the ride height up in the back with +4 springs to keep the travel with the shackles and to also give you a little better departure angle. You'll want the lift in the front to keep the tires out of the firewall at full bump.

If you want to keep in lower, you'll probably have to run +2 fenders at a minimum.

zombiekiller said:

there is a big difference in offroad performance. (for the better). On-road, you realistically won't notice a big difference.

If you look at the EXO footage from past runs, Almost all of the "Crew" trucks run Icon suspension, icon wheels and 37s.

If you consider that the EXO crew trucks, generally see 35-50K OFFROAD miles before they get cleaned up and sold, Id say it is a solid option.

You could also go SVC/Fox and expect the same quality and durability. I like the SVC bump stop setup the best.

the big difference between Icon and SVC/fox is that the Rear RXT shocks give you a little bit more travel than the Fox equivalents in the rear.

I'd opt to bring the ride height up in the back with +4 springs to keep the travel with the shackles and to also give you a little better departure angle. You'll want the lift in the front to keep the tires out of the firewall at full bump.

If you want to keep in lower, you'll probably have to run +2 fenders at a minimum.

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Thank you! Really appreciate your willingness to share the wisdom!

zombiekiller said:

....everyone will want to touch you because you're running 37s with no rubbing...

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This made my day lol!