High idle problem

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Ratpatator

Ratpatator

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I would try pulling the BBK throttle body and go back to stock. You may need to unload and reload the tune when you do.
I had a similar high idle situation one time. I have a tuned Roush SC, but the situation may be the same.
I had pulled the twin TB off to clean it. While off, I opened and closed the blade by hand to spray out the throttle body blades etc., reinstalled, plugged everything in, and fired it up.. Instantly ran at high idle, so I shut it off. Turned the key forward to the accessory switch and punched peddle to the flor several times then cycled key back to off. Fired it back up and it was back to normal idle.
Guessing me opening throttle by hand, required the TB to calibrate with the peddle once I plugged it back in.

Whatever it was, mine went back to normal after the reset.

I will definitely give this a try. I did open the TB up before I installed to make sure everything was working right. Thanks
 
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This term of "Boxed Tunes" and "Canned Tunes" does not apply any longer unless is not from a reputable Tuner.

I can tell you, these email Tunes from reputable Tuners is about as good as it gets.
Our vendors like Whipple, JDM, 5 Star, Livernois all take great pride in their Tunes they sell and want to have that great reputation.
All have hundreds and hundreds of files from Dyno Tuning at their own facility.
They only need to know what mods you have done and they will compile and adjust if needed, the correct calibration.
Now sometimes people use stuff that's not recommended and/or they may not have had that combination on a Dyno for testing.
That's when data logging comes into play.

Doing a Dyno Tune is ok and if a shop is close to you and a Tuner that's highly versed in a Raptor, that's great!
But 99% of the time this is difficult for most owners.
They may get another few HP out it, it is safer to see in real time, the dyno results to check if your getting into a lean condition.
It's not like the old days, were there are all sorts of hands on tweaks that can be done.
There's really not much to be gained, if you have to drive hundreds of miles to get one done, only to go back if you need tweaks.
There is nothing that can't be corrected with data logging on these newer vehicles and the PCM.
Driving is another situation, if shifting isn't right or too hard or bouncing of the rev limiter.
Again this has to be corrected by data logging whether you Dyno Tune or use a emailed Tune.
Now, having the Tuner sitting in your truck with a laptop, and doing pulls down the street which would be great and faster results.
It is far different than just sitting on a Dyno.
I went through this myself with Whipple's Ford Calibrator, there wasn't much he had to tweak,
it was only the transmission calibration part of the Tune that needed tweaking.

That makes sense. With all the electrical and computer controlled stuff most vehicles will be almost identical.

The only issue I had with shifting was the shift point seemed to be off. Just havent taken the time to track them I would just use the manual mode all the time. Although I do like the shift points on this new tune with the new parts.
 
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Take a look at your pcv valve.

I owe you a beer sir! Pretty sure this could be the problem...KIMG0610.JPG

The guts had fallen into the valve cover so pulled it of and found these 15878718174841495153913698002377.jpg
Had to turn the cover upside down and shake it to get them out. Didn't find the little black plastic part but pretty sure it came out.
 
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