DIY stereo upgrade for under $500.00

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

dhmcfadin

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Posts
553
Reaction score
240
I will bite...

Your audio signal starts at the source.....goes into what ever DAc (digital audio converter) you head unit has. Where it is converted (#1) to a low voltage signal. It is then sent the system amp and amplified (#2) to a high voltage siganl for your speakers.

at this point the sound has been manipulated 2 times and here is where the quality of your source matters. Cheap DAC's sound like ass, and what ever factory amp you have will make any bad qualities stand out like a sore thumb. Because we all know factory amps are not very good quality.

Now...lets say you want to add an aftermarket amp. and dont want to spend the money to do it right ...So you convert (#3) high voltage speaker level back down to low level RCAs. Send it to your amp, where it is then amplified (#4) again back up to high voltage speaker level.

So in this string....you now have 4 interaction points where you are manipulating your sound before it gets to your ears. 2 extra steps then just a basic DAC to amp set up.

Ever copy and analog tape off another analog tape. the signal degradation compounds with each generation.

Now...you may think you are ahead of me by adding an Audio Control Device that corrects (#5) any of the issues I have detailed above. But those things just compound the problem and what you get in final sound is NOT what was recorded.

There is my rant. I am 50 years old and have been an audio nerd since I was 16 when i got my first job as a car audio installer. 34 years of experience in audio theory and evolution of electronics hold me to my opinion.

High level speaker level inputs are bad and should be avoided at all costs.

Have you utilized an oscilloscope and rta to determine total harmonic distortion, signal to noise, and intermodulation distortion out of the factory headunit in non-amplified trucks?
 

goblues38

FRF Addict
Joined
Oct 27, 2018
Posts
2,633
Reaction score
3,753
Location
STL
yes....but it was 25 years ago....you can see the clipping happen......and ears don't lie

also...when you look at the output on a RTA, it just gets very muddy on the low end. I stand by my thoughts.
 

dhmcfadin

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Posts
553
Reaction score
240
yes....but it was 25 years ago....you can see the clipping happen......and ears don't lie

also...when you look at the output on a RTA, it just gets very muddy on the low end. I stand by my thoughts.

A lot has changed in 25 years. Theres a huge difference between acoustical distortion and electrical distortion. Your ears are being deceived, at least on this particular headunit. The high level output on the factory headunit has been verified. To everyone else reading this thread, don’t complicate things. High level signal from the non-amplified factory headunit is adequate for even the most high fidelity systems.
 
Last edited:

goblues38

FRF Addict
Joined
Oct 27, 2018
Posts
2,633
Reaction score
3,753
Location
STL
A lot has changed in 25 years. Theres a huge difference between acoustical distortion and electrical distortion. Your ears are being deceived, at least on this particular headunit. The high level output on the factory headunit has been verified. To everyone else reading this thread, don’t complicate things. High level signal from the non-amplified factory headunit is adequate for even the most high fidelity systems.

We just agree to disagree..... and you are wrong

It is an amplified factory head unit.....you are taking the signal after the amp.

If you have ever listened to real high end audio.....and your ears know what to listen for, you can hear how bad it is. Given the choice.....every audio professional who is not a hack would avoid high level inputs when another option is available.

Don't be a hack.
 

dhmcfadin

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Posts
553
Reaction score
240
We just agree to disagree..... and you are wrong

It is an amplified factory head unit.....you are taking the signal after the amp.

If you have ever listened to real high end audio.....and your ears know what to listen for, you can hear how bad it is. Given the choice.....every audio professional who is not a hack would avoid high level inputs when another option is available.

Don't be a hack.

Woah man.

On our headunits, where does the audio signal come from when switched to low level? Guess what, it still comes through the factory amplifier at a much lower voltage. The same circuits are used. Aftermarket headunit, different story. My data and testing is SPECIFIC to our trucks.
 
Last edited:

dhmcfadin

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Posts
553
Reaction score
240
If you have the ability to run low-level, go that route. I run optical in my truck. But keep in mind there are a number of complications that can occur with switching your output setting in forscan. The most notable being noise.
 

goblues38

FRF Addict
Joined
Oct 27, 2018
Posts
2,633
Reaction score
3,753
Location
STL
that's my point. i am not trying to argue...you seem like a reasonable person.

You should take the signal before the amp, not after it. The factory amp, weather it be sony or b&o (actually both are sony) is just gross. It adds a layer junk that you can eliminate by replacing the factory amp all together.

So the best way to accomplish this is to replace the amp with your aftermarket amp......but to do that, you have to buy the ZEN-A2B (if B&O) and ?? (if sony).

Don't just piggy back after the factory amp.
 

dhmcfadin

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Posts
553
Reaction score
240
that's my point. i am not trying to argue...you seem like a reasonable person.

You should take the signal before the amp, not after it. The factory amp, weather it be sony or b&o (actually both are sony) is just gross. It adds a layer junk that you can eliminate by replacing the factory amp all together.

So the best way to accomplish this is to replace the amp with your aftermarket amp......but to do that, you have to buy the ZEN-A2B (if B&O) and ?? (if sony).

Don't just piggy back after the factory amp.

I said multiple times “factory non-amplified trucks”. It’s pretty self explanatory but this means trucks that DO NOT have Sony or B&O from the factory.

For Sony- Pac Amp Pro
For B&O- Zen a2b.
 

goblues38

FRF Addict
Joined
Oct 27, 2018
Posts
2,633
Reaction score
3,753
Location
STL
I said multiple times “factory non-amplified trucks”. It’s pretty self explanatory but this means trucks that DO NOT have Sony or B&O from the factory.

For Sony- Pac Amp Pro
For B&O- Zen a2b.


All good...we are not talking the same scenario then....

Yes.....in a non amplified stereo....you would have no choice to go high level. My bad, as I was only speaking in terms of amped factory units where you can get a signal direct off the can-bus.
 

melvimbe

FRF Addict
Joined
Jul 22, 2019
Posts
4,878
Reaction score
6,436
Location
Houston, TX
I said multiple times “factory non-amplified trucks”. It’s pretty self explanatory but this means trucks that DO NOT have Sony or B&O from the factory.

For Sony- Pac Amp Pro
For B&O- Zen a2b.

For Sony, and I think any number of different sound processor options, some built into the Amp itself.

Also, based on the above discussion, how does passive crossovers come into play. Is it technically cleaner to avoid crossovers, to have the tweeters and midrange coming from different channels? Or is it irrelevant since the crossover is just clipping off frequencies, not altering the frequencies you hear. I suppose the frequencies need to get chopped off at the crossover in the amp/signal processor themselves anyway.
 
Top