Famous blend door actuator issue

Reviving my own post from the dead. I am still battling this today! It just turned cold here, and I replaced the actuator behind the radio yet again only 2 months ago. Yesterday driving to work I was getting warm from the driver vents and freezing cold from passenger and rear vents.

The full deal is every time the actuator behind the radio is replaced i continue to get pops on start up as if it is attempting to re-calibrate, and then works fine. After a couples months it goes out again. I have no control to front defrost or feet.

Will take ANY ideas at this point! Basically a begging adult man at this point. I do not go to the dealer...

(UPDATE) - removed the actuator motor from behind the radio, unplugged the actuator motor behind the glove box above the fuse box access panel, removed the driver actuator motor, and then turned ignition to ON. There was still popping. I am not sure of the exact terms I guess but is that the plenum? Do I need to remove the entire air box behind the dash?

Put everything back together with a new blend door behind radio, did fuse reset to recalibrate more than 10 times, and still have popping

You shouldn't be getting failures in these this often. Something is wrong elsewhere or with your install process. They don't last forever but usually longer than 2 months. That popping noise you hear is the gear teeth being forced through each other and its going to wear them out really quickly, its a warning sound that something isn't right.

B E N said:

You shouldn't be getting failures in these this often. Something is wrong elsewhere or with your install process. They don't last forever but usually longer than 2 months. That popping noise you hear is the gear teeth being forced through each other and its going to wear them out really quickly, its a warning sound that something isn't right.

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I do agree with you, and my reason for unplugging all of the motors. I was hoping someone would have had the same issues as me. Again, I can remove every motor and still get the popping. It sounds like it is coming from the large box behind the glove box which I think is called the plenum. Before pulling the dash was just hoping to get a little extra feedback.

dhanni848 said:

I do agree with you, and my reason for unplugging all of the motors. I was hoping someone would have had the same issues as me. Again, I can remove every motor and still get the popping. It sounds like it is coming from the large box behind the glove box which I think is called the plenum. Before pulling the dash was just hoping to get a little extra feedback.

Click to expand...

I'm dealing with the same issue on my 2011, i think i said this before but i think what is happening it is doing a (reset) learning every time the key is turned off then on (like what you get when you pull the fuse) so for whatever reason the "hold" power is not there...
I have replaced the inside fuse panel box so that rules that out...
I think there is a memory module under the drivers seat so I'll be looking at that next...

Btw the last clicking you have left, there is a motor near the passenger left foot (just above the floor heater vent on the trans hump)


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Would you describe this clicking as a buzzing noise with a short duration?

When I remote start the truck and then turn the key to run I get a short buzz. I also get a buzz when changing the temperature.

Jakenbake said:

Would you describe this clicking as a buzzing noise with a short duration?

When I remote start the truck and then turn the key to run I get a short buzz. I also get a buzz when changing the temperature.

Click to expand...

Its literally a clicking caused by a plastic gear skipping. Your buzzing might be the motor itself straining and likely failing


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ogdobber said:

I'm dealing with the same issue on my 2011, i think i said this before but i think what is happening it is doing a (reset) learning every time the key is turned off then on (like what you get when you pull the fuse) so for whatever reason the "hold" power is not there...
I have replaced the inside fuse panel box so that rules that out...
I think there is a memory module under the drivers seat so I'll be looking at that next...

Btw the last clicking you have left, there is a motor near the passenger left foot (just above the floor heater vent on the trans hump)


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Click to expand...

I didn’t realize there was another there so I will for sure check that this week thank you. Also, please keep me posted on the memory module under the seat!!!

Jakenbake said:

Would you describe this clicking as a buzzing noise with a short duration?

When I remote start the truck and then turn the key to run I get a short buzz. I also get a buzz when changing the temperature.

Click to expand...

Mine is a popping sound. I had the creaking the first time I had to replace it.

Well, I know have constant heat coming from the passenger side vents when I turn it on. Looks like mine finally stripped as well.

I briefly read through this thread and will research others, but is there a way to get some cooler air in there as a temporary fix? I saw something about zip tying up the blend door. Do you have to disassemble the dash to accomplish this?