Chasing that "frt end clunk"

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D

Deleted member 12951

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Well guess who's clunk is gone? yup. I am calling this problem solved, for me anyway. Not exactly sure what did it but its gone.

So I spent about 5 hours on the front end of this truck again yesterday, I figured, this is it, either this fixes it or I am done with this MF'er. I went slow, methodically, looked at everything, double and triple checked every nut and bolt. It is 100% fixed, quiet like a new Platinum or King Ranch. I am satisfied. Love the truck.

This is what i did.

-New upper control arms, standard Moog brand.
-New upper Spring hats, Moog stuff.
-Tightened the lower shock bolt in full droop with a large screwdriver jammed in below and pushing up on the shock bottom eyelet.
450 lb ft +
-Pulled the driveshaft and greased the yoke.

So it was one of those things, which one I am unsure, but i have a few ideas.

Shocks...That bottom shock bolt up design sucks, I believe the LCA is shrouded on the bottom so the eyelet doesnt get bashed offroading, but in my opinion there is not enough clearance below the eyelet to compensate for bushing wear, bushing flex, and tolerance stack ups. Thats the reason I tightened the lower bolt in droop plus forcing the eyelet up to maximize the clearance. Even doing it this way i could barely fit a slice of cardboard between the shock and the LCA. Its not right, it is designed to have 5-6mm in there, it doesnt.

Spring hats... People probably reuse the old ones when doing a shock rebuild, I did, but do you know how it is designed? it is a UFO shaped metal piece encapsulated in rubber that cushions the jounce. If that metal piece separates from the rubber internally i think it could make a thump, especially in cold weather when the rubber is harder. They are like 45 bucks, just replace em.

UCA... although my uppers seemed fine, i was a bit leery about them. bushings seemed ok but had noticeably more flex when cycled by hand in position disconnected from the spindle than the new ones, much tighter. Also the ball joint was easy to move but exhibited no play when messing with it. But, maybe under the large forces when going down the road maybe it had a little play? dont know.

Driveshaft yoke... I had no takeoff thump which is the symptom of a dry yoke, but while i was doing things, thought id visit it. it had some lube but not a ton, this thing moves alot in and out going down the road. i packed it full of wheel bearing grease. if nothing else i feel good about checking it.

Well I am done with this, I hope my many many hours on this truck help someone solve their noise. Now my wife and my neighbors can stop wondering why im always wrenching on this thing.

I’ve replace my shocks with new Fox 3.0’s, replace the UCA with an ICON DJ, replaced the LCA with new OEM ones, replaced the steering rack, replace the axles, tie rods and knuckles. And I have the yoke greased about every 6 months. It still clunks. But when I off-road with everything else going on, you forget all about it and the truck’s suspension is soaking it up and smooth over the terrain so things are working like they should with no ill effect.
 
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Canuck714

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I’ve replace my shocks with new Fox 3.0’s, replace the UCA with an ICON DJ, replaced the LCA with new OEM ones, replaced the steering rack, replace the axles, tie rods and knuckles. And I have the yoke greased about every 6 months. It still clunks. But when I off-road with everything else going on, you forget all about it and the truck’s suspension is soaking it up and smooth over the terrain so things are working like they should with no ill effect.

I think that there is a bushing clunk in the steering rack and that is what we hear. I am in a similar spot as you.... On 3.0's, run with sway bar on/off, uppers replaced. Its still there and nothing is worn or needs replacing..lol
 

Hasty

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Well guess who's clunk is gone? yup. I am calling this problem solved, for me anyway. Not exactly sure what did it but its gone.

So I spent about 5 hours on the front end of this truck again yesterday, I figured, this is it, either this fixes it or I am done with this MF'er. I went slow, methodically, looked at everything, double and triple checked every nut and bolt. It is 100% fixed, quiet like a new Platinum or King Ranch. I am satisfied. Love the truck.

This is what i did.

-New upper control arms, standard Moog brand.

Eyespyautomotive, are these the Moog UCA from Tasca? How’s the build quality?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

prowakeskater

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I’ve replace my shocks with new Fox 3.0’s, replace the UCA with an ICON DJ, replaced the LCA with new OEM ones, replaced the steering rack, replace the axles, tie rods and knuckles. And I have the yoke greased about every 6 months. It still clunks. But when I off-road with everything else going on, you forget all about it and the truck’s suspension is soaking it up and smooth over the terrain so things are working like they should with no ill effect.

Front passenger side?

Been chasing mine for a month. Pops owns a body shop, took it up to him to verify the bottom bolt with his torque multiplying wrench. Didn’t help. He drove it and couldn’t really feel it (of course) but recommended I pull all body mounts and spray them with silicone.

Went through a super technical rocky trail today in 4H and 4L and the noise became very clear as well as a steering rattle that I’ve never felt before. Do these trucks bang around like crazy on slow tech stuff?

May try to rule out the steering rack but fml this is an insane chase. Makes me want to just sell to buy another that doesn’t clunk. I don’t like problems I can’t fix!
 
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Canuck714

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@Eyespyautomotive I was thinking of this thread today when I purposefully hit every pothole and imperfection in the road... and heard nothing!!!
I had never completely gotten rid of the clunk, and had resigned to the fact that it was either the rack bushing of just end play in the front half shaft where it attached to the front diff.
I am on FOX 3.0 with DSC, and like most people ran the Low and Hi speed compression clickers all the way out (soft) for Daily Driving. I recently went to a +3 Deaver and decided to play around with my clickers upfront to better match the feel out back. The back is plush without feeling soft and the front being fully open had only 1 direction to try... so In went low speed, 2 clicks at a time.
At 4 clicks in, it made the front end start to feel pretty choppy, so I settled on +1 from full soft for DD. Low Speed (gold adjuster) is supposed to make a bigger difference on road feel, so this made sense.
Hi Speed compression which is overall firmer valving for a larger range of stroke was a bit of a surprise. I am at +4 clicks and it has made a huge difference in the way my truck feels. Firm but not harsh, eliminated the clunk I would occasionally have and made the front feel balanced with the back. Totally different truck to drive.

Off Road I used to run +2-3 Low C and +4 Hi C.. Now I think I need to go play again and see if adding more Comp offroad will get even better.
 
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Eyespyautomotive

Eyespyautomotive

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Awesome, rattles clunks and noises drive me nuts so I know what you mean. My truck is still nice and quiet after driving it all summer, so I'm happy. What I'm not happy about is the GJ Motorsport shock rebuilds leaking oil on my garage floor...:(
 
D

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@Eyespyautomotive I was thinking of this thread today when I purposefully hit every pothole and imperfection in the road... and heard nothing!!!
I had never completely gotten rid of the clunk, and had resigned to the fact that it was either the rack bushing of just end play in the front half shaft where it attached to the front diff.
I am on FOX 3.0 with DSC, and like most people ran the Low and Hi speed compression clickers all the way out (soft) for Daily Driving. I recently went to a +3 Deaver and decided to play around with my clickers upfront to better match the feel out back. The back is plush without feeling soft and the front being fully open had only 1 direction to try... so In went low speed, 2 clicks at a time.
At 4 clicks in, it made the front end start to feel pretty choppy, so I settled on +1 from full soft for DD. Low Speed (gold adjuster) is supposed to make a bigger difference on road feel, so this made sense.
Hi Speed compression which is overall firmer valving for a larger range of stroke was a bit of a surprise. I am at +4 clicks and it has made a huge difference in the way my truck feels. Firm but not harsh, eliminated the clunk I would occasionally have and made the front feel balanced with the back. Totally different truck to drive.

Off Road I used to run +2-3 Low C and +4 Hi C.. Now I think I need to go play again and see if adding more Comp offroad will get even better.

Odd, I haven’t changed the settings on my front DSC since I last off-road several months ago, lol. They are still set at high C in the middle which is around 5 or 6 and the low C fully closed with 2 clicks back.
Still clunks
 
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D

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Well finally got rid of my clunk!
I removed the entire sway bar and have been driving around for a week testing varies different areas that would cause the clunk. Nothing yet.
 
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