GEN 2 Transmission flush intervals

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RMB_Ryan

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Showing your age or ignorance, perhaps both.

View attachment 124932
In fairness, blackstone and other labs are certainly not always correct. For example, lead in the oil must be bearing material. That’s what the labs all say the high lead is. On an ecoboost though, nope. They have no lead Babbitt layer on bearings in these engines, and we use aluminum steel backed bearings from ford. So why do they call it bearing material like they are certain. This is partially where these tests fail. Now we don’t used an aluminum steel backed bearing for other reasons, so lead plays a factor and is looked at.

They are very quick to jump to conclusions is my biggest complaint, and it can go both ways. Doom and gloom and or all is well.

Now I am a fan of analysis and I do use oil analysis often, particularly on race prepped engines we build that have a low TBN and analysis is required.

I’d take what they say with a grain of salt. Especially when I’ve had customers analysis come back “looks great” and then unfortunately the customer has a fault and hurts a piston for example. Upon tear down twenty miles after analysis when the oil looked great, the inside of the engine shows oil is totally baked overheated and coked all over the inside of the engine. Sometimes even blocking pickup screen, and vct solenoids. They didn’t pick that up.

What do we physically see the most problems with? Specifically, synthetic blend motorcraft. Not the case all the time, and personally I’d look for probably iron first. Usually iron runs linear with age of oil, and to be honest I’m not sure why oil analysis many of times haven’t picked up an absolutely disgusting inside of s stock engine which ran semi and 10,000 oci. Worth thinking about for sure.

Just my $.02
 

Swamp Fox

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In fairness, blackstone and other labs are certainly not always correct. For example, lead in the oil must be bearing material. That’s what the labs all say the high lead is. On an ecoboost though, nope. They have no lead Babbitt layer on bearings in these engines, and we use aluminum steel backed bearings from ford. So why do they call it bearing material like they are certain. This is partially where these tests fail. Now we don’t used an aluminum steel backed bearing for other reasons, so lead plays a factor and is looked at.

They are very quick to jump to conclusions is my biggest complaint, and it can go both ways. Doom and gloom and or all is well.

Now I am a fan of analysis and I do use oil analysis often, particularly on race prepped engines we build that have a low TBN and analysis is required.

I’d take what they say with a grain of salt. Especially when I’ve had customers analysis come back “looks great” and then unfortunately the customer has a fault and hurts a piston for example. Upon tear down twenty miles after analysis when the oil looked great, the inside of the engine shows oil is totally baked overheated and coked all over the inside of the engine. Sometimes even blocking pickup screen, and vct solenoids. They didn’t pick that up.

What do we physically see the most problems with? Specifically, synthetic blend motorcraft. Not the case all the time, and personally I’d look for probably iron first. Usually iron runs linear with age of oil, and to be honest I’m not sure why oil analysis many of times haven’t picked up an absolutely disgusting inside of s stock engine which ran semi and 10,000 oci. Worth thinking about for sure.

Just my $.02
Thank you, RMB_Ryan.
 

NHbeast

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After doing a bit of Googling. A good, to me, solution has been decided upon. Feel free to persuade me I'm wrong.
On my Honda I'd drain the tranny every 30k, 3 qts, then refill and repeat three times. No mention of a tranny filter ever needing to be replaced.
So, I'll use a similar regime on the 3.5 Raptor (coincidently the Honda was 3.5) for the first 150k. Then drop the pan and change the filter.
Some talk online about why a filter would ever need to be changed, a closed system. Meh
Only now instead of draining, a vacuum pump will be used.
Curious to see how much oil will come out of a warm engine.
I like to change all my fluids early and often...cheap insurance.
And it keeps me in harmony with the truck.

Found some PDFs re the tranny

https://www.f150forum.com/attachmen...nt-recall-transmission-fluid-drain-refill.pdf

https://www.f150forum.com/attachmen...nge-10r80-transmission-fluid-drain-refill.pdf

https://www.f150forum.com/attachmen...-change-10r80-transmission-fluid-exchange.pdf

https://www.f150forum.com/attachmen...hange-10r80-adaptive-learning-drive-cycle.pdf
 
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Yoshi

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No fluid is capable of “lifetime”... and at 100k it will be toast.

Ask yourself who benefits from no dip stick and no fluid changes... think post warranty period.

My GX has lifetime oil but I changed it 100K to be safe and is now at 150K. It still shifts flawless like the day I bought it. Also, I've never done any repairs, only recommended service and it's all wheel drive with crawl control, kinetic dynamic air suspension, 2nd gear start, hill-start assist, downhill assist and Torsen limited slip with electronic locking differential.
 

Badgertits

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After doing a bit of Googling. A good, to me, solution has been decided upon. Feel free to persuade me I'm wrong.
On my Honda I'd drain the tranny every 30k, 3 qts, then refill and repeat three times. No mention of a tranny filter ever needing to be replaced.
So, I'll use a similar regime on the 3.5 Raptor (coincidently the Honda was 3.5) for the first 150k. Then drop the pan and change the filter.
Some talk online about why a filter would ever need to be changed, a closed system. Meh
Only now instead of draining, a vacuum pump will be used.
Curious to see how much oil will come out of a warm engine.
I like to change all my fluids early and often...cheap insurance.
And it keeps me in harmony with the truck.

Found some PDFs re the tranny

https://www.f150forum.com/attachmen...nt-recall-transmission-fluid-drain-refill.pdf

https://www.f150forum.com/attachmen...nge-10r80-transmission-fluid-drain-refill.pdf

https://www.f150forum.com/attachmen...-change-10r80-transmission-fluid-exchange.pdf

https://www.f150forum.com/attachmen...hange-10r80-adaptive-learning-drive-cycle.pdf

On my Honda/Acura vehicles (like wife's MDX) the tranny/transfer case/diffs get changed frequently as you suggested - I'm talking 30-50K tops, but the domestic trucks are a different story. It has always been 100k on GM auto's (I know this is a Ford - but its a GM/Ford tranny) & doing it early 75k not a bad idea, but as early as 50k would have to be a regular offroading/towing/plowing/working vehicle to require it.

Unless there's an issue - and there could be, its a new design - there were issues w/ GM's 8L80E w/ it not having the correct type/weight OR the correct amount of tranny fluid from the factory (among other issues w/ that tranny, hence why they were doing the 10 speed R&D w/ Ford almost simultaneously as they were debuting the 8 speed!)

I would never "flush" or suction out fluid from ANY auto tranny, period. Get her nice & hot like a 30+ mile drive & drain it hot let as much drop out as gravity will permit then refill w/ as much fresh fluid as it takes to get back to level.

That's it.

I wouldn't use anything other than the factory recommended fluid either.
 

SSWIM

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Service it at Factory recommended intervals. If your fluid is "smoked", servicing it is NOT going to help it. Something caused the fluid to burn. IE. Slipping clutches, Torque Convertor issue or other problems. That will not be fixed by a service.

Sam
 
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MEATSWORD

MEATSWORD

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So I talked to service department manager and one of the master techs voiced my concerns and was told " the new ulv looks like shit in a hurry, if the sample was lv or any of the other mercon fluid it would need to be investigated further."
I already took my own sample and have sent it off to Blackstone labs
I'll let you guys know what they say.
 

GCATX

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Service it at Factory recommended intervals. If your fluid is "smoked", servicing it is NOT going to help it. Something caused the fluid to burn. IE. Slipping clutches, Torque Convertor issue or other problems. That will not be fixed by a service.

Sam

Actually, I remember reading that tranny fluids have a linear relationship between operating temp and miles, the higher the operating temp of the fluid the shorter the useful life of the fluid. Just made up numbers but say, running temp of 200 would be good for 100k, running at 300 would be good for a few hundred miles, or maybe it was temp and time, not temp and miles. So, a scenario where you are dragging a 15k lb. trailer up the mountains regularly, it could be that the fluid is "smoked" as you say, and would just need to be changed, assuming no damage to the tranny internals. And, all that is assuming you are monitoring the tranny temp and miles/time. My $.02.

In the back of my mind I have wondered if some of our transmissions are perhaps under-filled from the factory, it seems that some of the engines may be arriving low on oil, just from reading on here and my experience with my truck. My transmission shifts funky sometimes (rpm's flare up shifting into 8th), I guess it wouldn't hurt to check the fluid level, if possible. Already had the reflash done.
 
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