how to reduce intake temps/manifold intake temp without FM IC

byz250f said:

Baja Design 1 inch wide LED light bar thats at ambient temp is not a 140F heat pump in front of the radiator like all the FM ICs are. From what I have researched an FM IC is about 15-20F cooler manifold intake temps then the stock IC. 15-20F is around a 2% improvement in HP which in stock form is 9hp, not a ton, but also nice to have. If I werent planning on towing I wouldnt worry about doing a FMIC, but I have read of several people in harsh conditions or towing that use a FMIC having cooling issues. I was wondering if anyone has used a **** injection kit, or if its possible to do a killer chiller setup like whats used on the Dodge Demon.

Click to expand...

nikhsub1 said:

Your numbers are way off. FMIC vs stock IC is more like 20-40C difference. Also, the dude with the overheating truck and the FMIC also has 2 light bars in the grill. The air passes right through the IC and the passing air is NOT that warm at all - the deal with the lightbars in the grill, even at only 1" is that they totally disrupt the flow altogether making the airflow much worse than it would seem.

Click to expand...

Seartrip said:

Mishimoto makes a direct fit IC that has a 77% larger core volume than stock and is much better built than the factory IC. I run one because I also didnt want the IC in front of the radiator.

Click to expand...

Seartrip said:

Yes. I'm using the Cobb OTS Stage 1-93 octane tune and my truck runs great. I've only done some minor monitoring with the Accessport but it appears the Mishimoto IC is doing a better job than the stock IC. I also moved my plate over and have full, uninterrupted airflow to the IC.

I was happy with the Mishimoto IC- good build, solid company, and the install was designed to be a stock replacement with no cutting or removing of fans. The other thing I like is that Mishimoto is located close enough to me that if I ever had any issues I could get to them. I will tell you it's a tight fit but it works (put the fans up with the IC as a single unit when installing). I also liked their rubber gasket around the front of the IC to seal it to the opening. If anything it probably does more to dampen vibrations but it was exactly what I was looking for. Also, in my case one of the Ford IC hose clamps was mangled from the factory, and once removed was a goner. So I'd recommend having a few extra high-quality t-bold clamps available to ensure you can finish the install once you start.

I've also been wondering if the Mishimoto would be sufficient to work well with the Cobb Stage 2 or Goosetuned. If you find anything out please post. Thanks.

Click to expand...