GEN 2 Single vs Dual catch cans

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Ruby Raptor

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Recently bought a 2017 Raptor w/ less than 5K miles on it and I’m looking at adding a catch can. Tons of different models, single/dual valve and some with dual cans for PCV/CCV. Any help narrowing down what’s best and has least complicated install would be appreciated!


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MnFlyer

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Please forgive my ignorance, but what is the purpose of a catch can?


The top of your engine develops pressure from the engine simply running. The air that creates that pressure is “dirty", ie oil, fuel, etc. We don't want to just vent that dirty air to the atmosphere for environmental reasons so it is routed to the intake side of the engine.

Some fuel injected engines are port injected, meaning the fuel nozzle sits behind the intake port and sprays fuel into the intake port and onto the back of the intake valve. Some engines are direct injection and the fuel nozzle sprays fuel directly into the cylinder.

Since that dirty air is being drawn into the cylinder through the intake port all that crud comes into contact with your intake valve. On the port injection engines the fuel cleans that crud off. Gasoline is a solvent (kerosine/diesel is a lubricant). On the direct injection that crud from the intake doesn’t get cleaned off and will gunk up your intake valves.

A catch can goes between the vent port and the intake port (it’s one little hose that connects the two ports). All the can is, is a vessel with filters and such to catch that dirty air, filter out the oil and allow cleaner air to the intake.

Our GEN2 3.5 ecoboost engines are BOTH port and direct injection. So while the catch can will catch the oil our engines are already cleaning it off the intake valves.

If you watch some of the videos on these catch cans for the Raptor you will see a small amount of oil being collected over 3-4K miles. Considering the relatively small amount being collected and the fact we have poet injection, IMO the catch can is a bit redundant.

Note: The ‘19 is both port and direct injected I assume the 17 and 18 are as well. Also I did simplify my explanation for the sake of simplicity.


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MnFlyer

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This is live tear down of the ecoboost engine. It’s 2011. No catch can as near as I can tell.


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Seven

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Excellent description. I haven't purchased a catch can and don't plan on getting one in the future. Plan on keeping the Raptor 8-10+ years so hope it doesn't bite me in the ass. :)
 

sabass

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I'm currently running Radiums Dual catch can. 45mins to install. Was pricey but I wanted the dual setup. I liked the mounting location and drain location vs the UPR.
https://imgur.com/x9IV3Kc

I had a UPR can before. UPR is fine about 30mins install time but I didn't like drilling into the intake tube for the WOT line. I didn't like the mounting location and access to the drain was difficult.

JTL catch can is the cheapest.
 

jabroni619

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This is live tear down of the ecoboost engine. It’s 2011. No catch can as near as I can tell.


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And that would be before they incorporated dual injection. Back then it was direct injection only.
 

zombiekiller

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ugh. I swear. I'm tired of writing a response to the catch can debate. maybe some mod will pin a sticky so we can stop doing this dance.

on a 17, I'd probably go with the full race can. You gut the pcv and it actually does a really good job.

on the 18s and 19s, there was a change that came with an additional flow sensor on the left ( driver's side in the U.S.) side of the motor that triggers a PO430 CEL, which is a leak/ high flow error. Thus, the FR can, or any can that goes in line with the crankcase ventilation system on that side of the motor will throw codes constantly.

On 17s it works just fine.

If you aren't pushing the motor at all, a catch can makes little sense other than separating you with your money.

Now, if you're running a tune, beating on the motor a lot, or operating your truck in places with crap gasoline quality, a catch can might make sense for you. Keeping as much oil out of the A/F mixture helps to keep effective octane levels as high as possible. YES, oil mist introduced into the cylinder, regardless of two types of fuel injection DOES decrease effective octane.

I personally run a JLT.

I switched from the UPR as the **** that goes into the intake tube ( that you drill as part of the UPR setup) doesnt stay in very securely, and my truck kept spitting it out every time I put the truck in baja mode and boost levels were their highest.

I run it just for trips I take where the highest octane available is 91 ( and the quality of the 91 I can get generally sucks. ).
 
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