GEN 2 Deavers, Kings, and Sad Face

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GCATX

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Little update. So far, I have tried endless compression/rebound settings with little effect. Been riding around for the last week at 31-32 psi with about 450 lbs in the bed. Still very harsh. I'm pretty stumped... This week I'm going to take some preload out of the front coilovers and see if that helps. For the rear, I wonder if it could be something as trivial as the installers torquing the rear leafs/shackles before setting the vehicle down on its own weight. Maybe that caused some kind of preload in the rear? Who knows. May call around and see if Fox will sell some of their 550 lb/in springs that come on their factory race shocks. Thanks for all the input guys.
I would look into this first, easy to do with weight on the springs. Spring replacement 101.
 
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dubya_raptor

dubya_raptor

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I would look into this first, easy to do with weight on the springs. Spring replacement 101.

That would be best case scenario. Maybe some noob was tasked with putting those heavy bastard leaf springs in my truck.
 
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dubya_raptor

dubya_raptor

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I did order some 550 lb/in coil springs for the front. Fortunately for me, and for anyone else curious, Fox and King coil springs are interchangeable. Should be in early next week. When they arrive, I will also have some longer shackles installed and bleed some of the nitrogen out of the shocks. In the meantime, I'll try resetting the shackles and tweaking those bypasses.

Figured I could afford to lose an inch dropping the truck down since I plan on sticking with 35's. After rubbing the shit out of my fenders with my last truck on 37's, its very pleasing not to worry about that...
 

khcdave

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I wouldnt mess with the pressure settings. Your results will be minimal. Valving in the shock is what sets the dampening the pressure compresses the fluid to keep foaming and fade to a minimum. Try opening the compression bypasses all the way and work from there. For street driving unloaded I usually run them wide open on most shocks unless the base valving is pretty tight. Leave the rebound.

You can also consider running a plus 1 shackle which will help a little.
 

Loufish

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I wouldnt mess with the pressure settings. Your results will be minimal. Valving in the shock is what sets the dampening the pressure compresses the fluid to keep foaming and fade to a minimum.

That's what I was thinking...Went to an open house at ICON years ago and guys were asked to bring in a shock to run on their dyno...guy sets up a 10" travel CO with remote resi. After running up the shock cycles the shock starts getting a constant bang/clank. ICON suspects the N2 charge was low and the shock piston was getting cavitation on the backside of the piston head. Sure enough the guy admitted to dropping the N2 charge, they checked it and it was about 150 psi. ICON bumped it back up to about 225 and sure enough the cavitation was gone...
 

Clockton

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My 3.0s were dialed in out of the box. Went to tune them and ended up not changing a thing.

Heres the video. Its a .mov which seems to have trouble plying in Chrome sometimes. Try Safari or another browser if it doesn't work

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1r-KcorZEaEcIsXsjch0BRaLG3clGI33w

I am taking these shocks off in April if anyone has an interest. They are a year old.
 
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GBRaptor34

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dubya_raptor

dubya_raptor

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Well the rear shocks were already at 150 psi. Going to take advantage of King's free revalve service and ship them out next week; thanks for the advice @khcdave and @Loufish . Going to swap out the coils first thing next week and run on the factory rear shocks until the kings are revalved. Will let y'all know the results.

@Clockton - Jeff showed me that video when I was ordering my stuff. Very impressive!

@GBRaptor34 - the front compression is fully open.
 
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