B&O add aftermarket sub

Ocotillo Boy said:

Do you have pics of this install? Didn't even know audio control was making amps now! How do they sound??

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System isn’t complete yet but I ran similar amps in my 2016 and they sounded phenomenal. They look beautiful, no noise whatsoever, efficient, put out more power than they are rated for.

Man, I've been out of the audio loop! Can't believe these amps have been out a couple few years and I didn't know about it.

I’m confused.

Can I take the harness going INTO the B&G amp and tap into the rear sub wires to an LC2i and from there into an amp which will power a sub?

I want to cut those wires going into the amp to feed a separate amp for a separate sub.

I’m just confused as to where to grab the signal from.

Before it enters the amp or after?

There are no wires to cut on the input side. All that goes into the amp is can-bus hi and low, power, and an a2b communication protocol usb signal. If you look at the factory sub, you can grab the signal from there. After the amp.

dhmcfadin said:

There are no wires to cut on the input side. All that goes into the amp is can-bus hi and low, power, and an a2b communication protocol usb signal. If you look at the factory sub, you can grab the signal from there. After the amp.

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I’ve never done it that way before. Interesting.

If I’m simply replacing the stock sub and box with another more powerful sub, is the sub outputs (i see them on green connector) the best solution?

I keep seeing reference to pull from the b pillars rear speaker which seems odd considering I have a sub there.

Anyways....

THANK YOU VERY MUCH SIR.

Someone would be a rockstar in my eyes if they would publish detailed info on what to do to get earth shattering bass in a 2018 B&O 802A truck without buying the freaking 800+ dollar interface. I just want to put a box under my back seat with a few JL 12 subs and add a dedicated sub amp and disconnect the B&O sub but leave everything else alone. If I needed one of those dial things to adjust the bass that would be OK but I don't want to f up the other tech like the noise cancelling or alert sounds in the truck.

vitaminR said:

Someone would be a rockstar in my eyes if they would publish detailed info on what to do to get earth shattering bass in a 2018 B&O 802A truck without buying the freaking 800+ dollar interface. I just want to put a box under my back seat with a few JL 12 subs and add a dedicated sub amp and disconnect the B&O sub but leave everything else alone. If I needed one of those dial things to adjust the bass that would be OK but I don't want to f up the other tech like the noise cancelling or alert sounds in the truck.

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I’m trying to do the same thing. I have a shallow 8” woofer I want to try with an amp to it. I also have a 12” w6 I can try too.

It’s my wife’s daily so we might just stick a better 8” woofer in the stock sub enclosure and amp it. The W6 will be too much. LOL.

I’m going to disconnect the sub s green adapter after the amp.

I will use my LC2i or passive Dave Navone LOC and attach the left and right side of the subs inputs that come out of the amp and connect to the sub box. There is a green connector you can tap from.

Once those lines are tapped I can now feed my amp and then feed a sub off the Amp. The connector will stay disconnected once tapped.

The hard part is the getting the power wire though the firewall.

Or am I missing something I don’t know yet?

I can do this right?

There's no such thing as too much.

Im not following your comment about firewalling the power wire.

Are you talking about just getting the wire from the front to the back. If that's the case just get creative. Hell drill a hole if you have to and grommet it.

Im going to try to write up a "proposal" audio upgrade post it on here and solicit feedback. Sounds like I will need an LC2i, a sub(s), a box, a dedicated sub amp and some kinda green plug adapter to keep from cutting up my harness to get a signal. Unsure where I will get a turn onlead.

vitaminR said:

There's no such thing as too much.

Im not following your comment about firewalling the power wire.

Are you talking about just getting the wire from the front to the back. If that's the case just get creative. Hell drill a hole if you have to and grommet it.

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Sorry. Fixed.

Yes, it’s a pain. Easy but a pain. It’s my least favorite part. Love me some ground wire though... LOL.

vitaminR said:

There's no such thing as too much.

Im not following your comment about firewalling the power wire.

Are you talking about just getting the wire from the front to the back. If that's the case just get creative. Hell drill a hole if you have to and grommet it.

Im going to try to write up a "proposal" audio upgrade post it on here and solicit feedback. Sounds like I will need an LC2i, a sub(s), a box, a dedicated sub amp and some kinda green plug adapter to keep from cutting up my harness to get a signal. Unsure where I will get a turn onlead.

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Your list is correct.

You will get the remote signal from the LC2i.

For the green sub connector, contact Digi-Key [email protected]

Send them a couple pictures of the green plug and two them you want the mate. They will find it. You are still going to need pins and a Molex crimper.

If you don’t want to go through the trouble, use a 4 position plug with pigtails. Cut and solder the plug inline with the factory harness. You will maintain the oem plug and allow your aftermarket amp to plug and play. When you want to remove the factory sub, you just unplug “your” plug and plug in your aftermarket amp/LC2i, etc

E Support 4 Pin Way Car Auto Waterproof Electrical Connector Plug Socket Kit with Wire AWG Gauge Marine Pack of 5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0144CFM7A/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

Lastly, the factory sub is dual voice coil hence why you need a 4 position plug. Make sure you maintain the proper wire pairs and pay attention so you don’t throw your aftermarket or b&o sub out of phase. You will get very little output and could damage your equipment.