FML Need Help!! 14'Raptor

I NEED HELP! I have a 14' SCREW with 70k miles and here is a list of issues ive had and currently having.

1. OCT 2017 my back up camera became distorted with lines running through it and changing colors like a rainbow. ( wiggled wire loom at the tail gate issue solved)

2. OCT 2017 left turn signal hyper flash, I checked/replaced bulb and fuses and looked for wireing issues. (Nothing found, blinker still hyper flashing present day, both sides)

3. NOV 2017 truck would just shut off with no warning, reviewd this form and found the fuel pump fuse was the issue. (Changed burnt fuse issue resolved)


4. FEB 18 Left speaker in drivers door keep cutting in and out, cluster panel lights up like a xmas tree blinking on and off to include dome light but stops after truck has been running for 10-15 mins. ( checked fuses and wireing, nothing found)

5. APR 18 SYNC touch system went out, I youtubed the issue and did all the recommended resets for the Sync system( pulling fuse, let stand for a few min then poping fuse back in, disconnecting battery and fuse and let it sit for 45 min to drain power ect.....) Nothing worked. I ordered new AMPI for the sync system, installed it and it still doesnt work. I ordered a new screen as a last result, its still in the mail( status pending)

6. JUN 18 Installed light bar on AUX switch 3, AUX switch panel goes in and out like speaker does but not at the same time.

PRESENT DAY Issues
1. Hyper turn signals on both sides
2. Control lanel flashing on and off at start up
3. Speakers going in and out
4. Ford Sync dosent work
5. Fuse box passanger side makes a ticking noise from time to time

I have checked all fuses and they are all good, ive traced what wireing i can visibily see and nothing is burnt, crimped or cut. I would take it to a dealer but im in the service and currently stationed in Korea and the ford service center here only deals with fords that are made for korean specs and they dont speak any english. So like i said in the opening of this long ass thread FML. Does any one have any suggestions?

Thanks for your time.

could possibly be the bcm. that big box nd fuse panel in the passenger kick. at some point everything you mentioned runs through it. the ticking is probably a relay not getting enough signal (power or ground) and is cycling. as far as the audio part, the acm might be the issue, but then again, it does run through the bcm too.

Thanks for the info, i looked at purchaseing a new BCM however.com it appears there is some programing that needs to be done during install. Is there a DIY approach to this or is this something only a dealer can do? Ive looked on line and for the most part all i found was install for old hot rods and muscle cars. Again thanks for everyones time and support.

Do you have it there in SK??? Not sure if it helps but if you haven't already, check/replace the battery. Shitton of electronics that heavily depend on power; might explain some of the seemingly unrelated clicks and flashing going on...

I have to order all parts and have them shipped to my family in CA stateside then they ship it to me. It sucks but thats life. I havent ordered a BCM, i want to ensure i can install myself without a dealer first. Now that you mention it, when i was having the issue with the truck shuting off while driving i replaced my battery along with the fuel pump fues because i noticed the positive terminal haf a crack at tbe base of the terminal. Maybe the battery isnt the right one........? But then againg isnt that what the alternator is for........? It kills me to think about it cause i dont want my my truck to go to shit cause i dont have the resources to troubleshoot the issue and im no mechanic. Id hate to have a 3 dollar part destroy a 50K dollar truck because of my ignorance and lack of resources. #humbledamerican

1) The camera/wiring/plug at the tailgate is a known and somewhat common failure.

2) Do you have LED turn signals?

3) Yep, common problem on all 09-14 trucks.

4) I'd suspect the BCM on this based the the flashing dome light, however, the door harness wires are known to just fail from flexing over and over as the door is opened, so maybe multiple issues here.

5) APIM has to be programmed to work. I don't think you can just throw a new one in there and have any chance of it working. You can use Forscan to do this.

6) Not sure on that- but sounds like maybe the BCM is affecting this one too.

If the battery is starting the truck, it's not the problem.

14'Raptor said:

I have to order all parts and have them shipped to my family in CA stateside then they ship it to me. It sucks but thats life. I havent ordered a BCM, i want to ensure i can install myself without a dealer first. Now that you mention it, when i was having the issue with the truck shuting off while driving i replaced my battery along with the fuel pump fues because i noticed the positive terminal haf a crack at tbe base of the terminal. Maybe the battery isnt the right one........? But then againg isnt that what the alternator is for........? It kills me to think about it cause i dont want my my truck to go to shit cause i dont have the resources to troubleshoot the issue and im no mechanic. Id hate to have a 3 dollar part destroy a 50K dollar truck because of my ignorance and lack of resources. #humbledamerican

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Wish I was closer to the truck to help out. Batteries come in group sizes that tell you the (minimum) dimensions and cranking/cold cranking amps they put out (again, minimum at least); different manufacturers can vary a little bit or suggest a smaller or similar size if they don't make something exactly the same. As far as I know the Gen1 takes a Group 65, so I put an Interstate MT-65 in mine. Optima suggests a group 34 I think, which is probably close enough. Any idea what group size went in yours?

Yes the alternator charges the battery after the engine starts, but all the electronics are still running off the battery while the alternator tries to replace the charge lost by spinning the starter. So if the battery is weak that might explain the low voltage/amperage symptoms you explained like clicking relay or dimming lights right after startup that go away after running for a bit. Might. Could be a shot in the dark but it's not beyond the realm of possibility that the battery is the culprit, even a brand new one off the shelf can fail pretty randomly. Electrical problems in general are difficult to pinpoint so I tend to suggest the easiest/cheapest things first; know anyone that can swap in a new or relatively new known good battery?

Here is the battery I currently have, it was the biggest one they had at the car care center here( like a jiffy lube) very basic stuff for vehicles.

Ill keep everyone posted as i continue to work through the issues, thanks for everyones input. I think im going to hold off on the BCM DIY replacement. I have 9 more months before ill be back stateside. Hopfully it will hold up until then.

Good to see you in S.Korea.

I will touch you[emoji3].

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