MPT Tune Version 4

xrocket21 said:

No worries! I just get frustrated by misinformation!!!!

Next time I read someone commenting how they get a stiffer ride from pre-load collars, my head might explode.....

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Haha...I have those, and I can vouch the ride is NOT stiffer lol

---------- Post added at 01:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:23 PM ----------

nikhsub1 said:

in this very thread people are saying how CAI's don't lower the intake temp - no shit! That intake air is going through hot ass turbos first. Anyway, enough thread derailment.

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...which is why Compressor Inlet size, Compressor Wheel Size/# of fins/Bearing, Charge Tube Size and Routing, and Intercooler all need to be upgrades if you wanted to see anything out of a CAI...Correct?

bosssho said:

...which is why Compressor Inlet size, Compressor Wheel Size/# of fins/Bearing, Charge Tube Size and Routing, and Intercooler all need to be upgrades if you wanted to see anything out of a CAI...Correct?

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Well, that depends. I had a turbo car a number of years ago where the stock airbox would go into vacuum at full boost - meaning the stock air box could not provide enough air. I doubt that is the case with the Raptor but I have not seem any tests with a manometer either. Anyway, there is rarely a simple answer to any of this.

Ok, so how many of you "driveway bolt-on mods are better" folks have the time slips to back up your claims of "better"? Took mine to the drags last night just to see what it would do. My stock truck with tuning only. MPT baseline with a few little tweaks with my HPTuners software. Here's the time slip. Yeah, that's me on the left, #64 with a 13.72 @ 100.38 mph in a 5700lb street truck. Check the 2.0 60ft time. The guy in the right was in some Chevy crap truck.

nikhsub1 said:

Well, that depends. I had a turbo car a number of years ago where the stock airbox would go into vacuum at full boost - meaning the stock air box could not provide enough air. I doubt that is the case with the Raptor but I have not seem any tests with a manometer either. Anyway, there is rarely a simple answer to any of this.

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Oh, old school guy. Don't need the old mercury manometers in modern cars. They have MAP and T-MAP sensors everywhere. Before throttle, after throttle, etc. If there is a restriction in the intake/airbox area that is dropping air pressure, it shows in the data immediately.

FORZDA 1 said:

Ok, so how many of you "driveway bolt-on mods are better" folks have the time slips to back up your claims of "better"? Took mine to the drags last night just to see what it would do. My stock truck with tuning only. MPT baseline with a few little tweaks with my HPTuners software. Here's the time slip. Yeah, that's me on the left, #64 with a 13.72 @ 100.38 mph in a 5700lb street truck. Check the 2.0 60ft time. The guy in the right was in some Chevy crap truck.

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That's impressive!

I'm assuming that's on the 93PRX tune?

Any chance you loaded the stock tune and tried that?

Also how were you launching? Drive mode? Any brake boost? 2wd, 4auto, 4wd?

Yes the 93PRX as baseline. Didn’t try stock tune as it is, well stock. Sport mode, 4-auto, locked diff, all Advance Trac off, full brake boost for launch.

The brakes won’t hold it at WOT, so you apply as much throttle as you can and be careful to stage real shallow to allow a bit of rollout.

As you can see from the awesome 60ft it leaves like a rocket. It was the quickest gas truck there. Lots of v-8ntrucks and cars embarrassed. There was one really wuick diesel Ford with drag radials running mid 11s. It blew so much smoke you lost sight of the thing down track! Gotta give the guy props though it was spectacular to watch.

WV Dual Sport said:

Jury also seems out on the lower temp (170 deg.) thermostat.

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Engine Masters tested lower coolant temperatures and the gains were insignificant on a dyno.



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The 170 thermostat may not do anything. But it is worth it to me. The stock fan settings are were? Does it make sense to run a fan before thermostat opens? Thermostat should bring temperature is at wide open. Then open shutters. Then start fans

dewalt said:

Does it make sense to run a fan before thermostat opens? Thermostat should bring temperature is at wide open. Then open shutters. Then start fans

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Actually it does. With the thermostat closed there is likely enough bypass flow for idle and accessory loads but you still need airflow while stopped or at very low speeds. Otherwise the thermostat would open and nothing would happen until the fans cycled on, then everything would close and turn off again, over and over and over.


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Well with same fan settings as before I am now running just under 190, instead of just under 220, It does not make sense to me to run that hot with fan on.