Upper control arms and tie rods.

UCA that are adjustable if you are doing the slot delete for the LCA. I would recommend the ICON UCA DJ as that joint will last longer than the normal open uniballs designed more for dry environments. Plus the ICON one is adjustable while on the truck when others, you will need to remove to adjust which might take several attempts.

A designed UCA will increase caster to help with off-roading that helps bring the steering wheel to center faster/easier. The Rogue UCA and most will do that. The tie rods are a good idea to beef up considering the stock ones are skinny in comparison. They usually give you a tighter steering control and do look a lot better than stock. Tie rods that have the double shear with conjunction with an aftermarket knuckle, does have some additional strength benefits.

We sell most brands of UCA, Tie Rods and shocks from Fox, King and the new ICON ones that have come out. If you would like to get a quote on some options and custom King colors, shoot me a PM.

Thanks,
Rick

My god those Kings are sick and Rick I can’t give you anymore of my money for awhile!!!’


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Rick@FreedomMotorsports said:

Plus the ICON one is adjustable while on the truck when others, you will need to remove to adjust which might take several attempts.

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I was thinking about this a while back, might as well ask the stupid question as it could benefit the OP as well...is dialing in all the other UCA's a monumental pain in the ass or what? I mean, *******, you have to pull the tire/wheel, then outer tie rod, upper balljoint at knuckle, and remove the whole shock, just to get to the two pivot bolts on the UCA, and what, guess at how many turns in or out on the two heims? And then bolt everything back up, torque it all (406ft-lbs on my favorite, the lower shock bolt), drop it so it's at ride height, and check it again? Am I missing something or WTF?!?

BenBB said:

I was thinking about this a while back, might as well ask the stupid question as it could benefit the OP as well...is dialing in all the other UCA's a monumental pain in the ass or what? I mean, *******, you have to pull the tire/wheel, then outer tie rod, upper balljoint at knuckle, and remove the whole shock, just to get to the two pivot bolts on the UCA, and what, guess at how many turns in or out on the two heims? And then bolt everything back up, torque it all (406ft-lbs on my favorite, the lower shock bolt), drop it so it's at ride height, and check it again? Am I missing something or WTF?!?

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Yes pain but once done unless you do something major you should not have to align caster or camber ever again. When you take off the UCA, turn the bolts around so you do not have to take the shock out each time as you did the first time. A good alignment shop that understands how to align by the UCA should be able to get it aligned after 3 attempts. They don't have to torque everything to spec (especially the 406lbs of the lower shock bolt) but get it tight so it doesn't move. Hence why I recommend the ICON one as you can adjust both sides of the UCA without removing it. Camber has one but you still need to remove. KHC designed one that you can adjust on the truck that Dave was showing at TRR but he is purchasing the adjustment sleeve from ICON to make that happen. His does look good and different design that protects the top of the uniball with a metal plate. The ICON one has been proven and looks great too as of right now that is my recommendation.

I don't think you have to remove the shock? I was told if you cant get the bolts out then just take off the top three bolts and swing the shock out of the way to get the bolts out, that doesn't seem too hard. Also, the Camburg arms have a setting in the instructions to set the heims so you don't have to take it on and off. Seems simple enough.

Rick@FreedomMotorsports said:

Yes pain but once done unless you do something major you should not have to align caster or camber ever again. When you take off the UCA, turn the bolts around so you do not have to take the shock out each time as you did the first time. A good alignment shop that understands how to align by the UCA should be able to get it aligned after 3 attempts. They don't have to torque everything to spec (especially the 406lbs of the lower shock bolt) but get it tight so it doesn't move. Hence why I recommend the ICON one as you can adjust both sides of the UCA without removing it. Camber has one but you still need to remove. KHC designed one that you can adjust on the truck that Dave was showing at TRR but he is purchasing the adjustment sleeve from ICON to make that happen. His does look good and different design that protects the top of the uniball with a metal plate. The ICON one has been proven and looks great too as of right now that is my recommendation.

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Many thanks Rick, I appreciate the insight and that makes a lot more sense flipping the pivot bolts (must come with UCA's as the stock one are too long). That's great news KHC is building their own UCA, as I'm planning on using their un-slotted LCA reinforcement.

DEGBTI said:

I don't think you have to remove the shock? I was told if you cant get the bolts out then just take off the top three bolts and swing the shock out of the way to get the bolts out, that doesn't seem too hard. Also, the Camburg arms have a setting in the instructions to set the heims so you don't have to take it on and off. Seems simple enough.

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That might work, just from my limited experience at the very least you'd also have to compress the spring some to clear the shock tower and either have the whole front on a lift or disconnect the swaybar if doing one side at a time. Those widowmaker spring compressors are pretty sketchy, I think I'd rather pull the whole shock...those Camburg arms are damn sure worth the effort though, the Kinetik is a work of art.

DEGBTI said:

I don't think you have to remove the shock? I was told if you cant get the bolts out then just take off the top three bolts and swing the shock out of the way to get the bolts out, that doesn't seem too hard. Also, the Camburg arms have a setting in the instructions to set the heims so you don't have to take it on and off. Seems simple enough.

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Depends on your shocks. With the Fox ones, the bolt is too close that you cannot get it out. You have to reverse it and cut the end of it to put it back in.
Yes, even Rogue's UCA has in their instructions where to set the adjustable heims if you are going to do the alignment from the lowers. But if you use a Slot Delete kit then you will be making the alignment adjustments from the UCA therefore you either need to remove it to make those adjustments or have an UCA that allows you to make them without removing it, hence the ICON UCA that I was recommending.

@DrifterGTR if you are still looking for options feel free to message us here or give us a call at the shop! We can get you all setup and offer some unbeatable pricing!

^^
Thanks Chad. Guess I got some prices to beat, no problem!
Trying to help but if anyone needs quotes, mesage me.

Rick@FreedomMotorsports said:

^^
Thanks Chad. Guess I got some prices to beat, no problem!
Trying to help but if anyone needs quotes, mesage me.

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appreciate the help Rick!