GEN 1 Pushed forward wheelbase???

I'm new to truck modifications. Recently I saw a fiberglass fender manufacturer mention that their product would allow for up to 40 inch tires with a "pushed forward wheelbase" without rubbing.

The Google machine hasn't shown me any information on what a pushed forward wheelbase entails or how to do it.

What all does a pushed forward wheelbase mean?
How do you do it on a 2013 Raptor?
What are the benefits?

So much $$$$

Buy a MEGA Raptor for like 100k and have 46 inch tires and be done with it. lol

*****. First off welcome. Second off I hope you are never going to give me up or let me down. Well, the first thing you need to determine is the maximum safe length you can extend the control arms to--that'll be a function of the joint/bushing shank diameter and length. Next, how much extra slip do you have in your front drive shaft? From experience, it won't like more than ~1" forward. Once you've done that, go ahead and push the axle out as far as you can. Then pull the springs, shocks and sway bar links and cycle the axle. You'll probably get interference between the diff and track bar, tie rod and drag link at the passenger juncture, passenger side tie rod end and track bar mount when turning to the passenger side, and maybe even tie rod/track bar interference during compression. Once you've had all that fun, shorten the arms until you have no more interference throughout the usable suspension cycle.

Just a hunch....you'll end up close to where you started after a few hours of messing around with it unless you spend lots of cash on parts upgrades. Essentially, a pushed forward wheel base is changing axle positions. The benefits would be better approach angle, wider wheel base, and a custom looking truck at Starbucks, but may seem tippy when climbing rocks.

That is not a kit designed for running 40s in the mall parking lot.

The trucks that body were developed for typically start in the $500,000 range. The lower control arms and cross member have been completely re-engineered with the pivot points not only much further forward but also much closer to the center line to significantly increase front travel. They're also almost always 2WD trucks. If this is the route you want to go, then you could have started with any truck. There really won't be much Raptor left in your Raptor.

I do know of one or two Raptors that have made 40s work without going the pre-runner route, but this usually requires some major "re-engineering" of your firewall. By re-engineering, I mean some cutting and/or a lot of pounding with a sledge hammer.

Realistically, unless you are wealthy, or capable of building a trophy truck in your garage, running 40s is going to require a lift and at that point you will have completely destroyed your Raptor.



You can get away with running up to 37" BFG K02s with the stock fenders and bedsides but typically it's better to just stick with 35s and only move up to 37s when you're running aftermarket glass.

From the OP's profile:

"Pending Modifications: Stoptech brakes and calipers, Mcneil fiberglass hood and bedsides, new bumpers front and rear, 40 inch tires, new wheels, forward and rear suspension upgrades, Livernois 6.6l package with Whipple supercharger, engine cage, roll cage, bed cage, upgraded head and tail lights, exterior lighting, new differentials, upgradrd seats, and new paint/vinyl."

He describes himself as a "Beginner Modder."

That's a hell of a list.

Helping out the economy.

RickRoller2013 said:

I'm new to truck modifications. Recently I saw a fiberglass fender manufacturer mention that their product would allow for up to 40 inch tires with a "pushed forward wheelbase" without rubbing.

The Google machine hasn't shown me any information on what a pushed forward wheelbase entails or how to do it.

What all does a pushed forward wheelbase mean?
How do you do it on a 2013 Raptor?
What are the benefits?

Click to expand...

Generally you get a "pushed forward wheelbase" from installing a long travel kit. Some of them will move the tires slightly farther forward. That's the only way you're going to do that to my knowledge. Well...I take that back, anything is possible if you have a lot of money or a lot of fabrication skills.

Thanks for the info and for keeping me from wasting time going down that rabbit hole.

---------- Post added at 01:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:00 PM ----------

Thanks for the reality check. I figure this is going to be a long road. I'm ok with that. I can spread the cost expenditure out over time. Just needed a direction to aim to get things started.

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---------- Post added at 01:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:10 PM ----------

Absolutely a beginner. I'm an engineer that hasn't had his hands dirty in a few years. I've spent my life studying, fixing, and redesigning at the industrial level. Trying to get smart on something I actually care about now. This is a project. All projects start with research, then design, then budget, then timeline and milestone layout. Thanks for the help. Maybe I'll be done in 10 years.