Lower shock bushing removal/install

My front lower shock bushings are worn out again. The first time I had them replaced when they were being rebuilt and valved. Since I don't want to send the shocks off again, I figured I'd replace the bushings myself. Fast forward 6 hours and 2 busted thumbs later, I don't see how its possible without a hydraulic press and some sort of fixture or specific bed plates. I tried to use a harbor freight bushing press, no way thats working due to the awkward angle cut and lack of surface area on the shock eyelet.

Figures I'd ask and see if anyone else has successfully pressed out the stock bushings before I waist another day.

Picture of the eyelet for reference.
https://forged-offroad.com/forged-offroad-exclusive-products/?v=7516fd43adaa

Not to thread jack ya but how can one tell bushings have gone bad without removing the shocks?

1- you will have a rattle/clunk coming from your suspension. Eliminate ball joints, tie rods, etc. before jumping to conclusions. Double check the lower shock nut/bolt torque. 406 ftlb means a 24” breaker bar with a 200lb person standing on it.

2- jack the truck up, remove the wheels, and stick a pry bar between the lower a arm and the shock. If you have movement in the shock with minimal force (50 lb?) you have a bad stock bushing.

My lower bushings only last 20k miles. If you have aftermaket 3.0’s, it’s a lot easier.

Who's tried the forged ones?


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ogdobber said:

Who's tried the forged ones?


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Forged ones? If you mean the spherical bearing things pictured above, I’m am installing them soon. Hopefully they will last a little longer than the stock bushings. Aftermarket shocks use similar bearings. If I could justify spending 5k for 3.0’s, I’d go that route. Don’t really need 3.0’s for my use. Supposedly forged off-road can beef up your factory shocks to optimize the performance, I only opted for the “flutter valve” stack.

stewwalker said:

Forged ones? If you mean the spherical bearing things pictured above, I’m am installing them soon. Hopefully they will last a little longer than the stock bushings. Aftermarket shocks use similar bearings. If I could justify spending 5k for 3.0’s, I’d go that route. Don’t really need 3.0’s for my use. Supposedly forged off-road can beef up your factory shocks to optimize the performance, I only opted for the “flutter valve” stack.

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Yes, curious if anyone has already run them. As i understand the aftermarket shocks with them have a slight "rattle"


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ogdobber said:

Yes, curious if anyone has already run them. As i understand the aftermarket shocks with them have a slight "rattle"


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Is the rattle from the bearings, or the bypass? Im familiar with spherical bearing in motorcycle suspension, but have never dealt with them in trucks until now. New Bearings don't rattle, but will develop some play after X amount of time. If I can get more than 20k miles out of these I'll be happy. Might firm up the suspension too. Once I get them in I'll follow up. Its a shame there isn't much info on them.

Maybe @m3dragon can chime in.

stewwalker said:

Is the rattle from the bearings, or the bypass? Im familiar with spherical bearing in motorcycle suspension, but have never dealt with them in trucks until now. New Bearings don't rattle, but will develop some play after X amount of time. If I can get more than 20k miles out of these I'll be happy. Might firm up the suspension too. Once I get them in I'll follow up. Its a shame there isn't much info on them.

Maybe @m3dragon can chime in.

Click to expand...

They made them and most people who buy them are in the exchange program. There is no additional noise as if you run 3.0's it is the same design. Only difference is does not wear out as fast. But they will wear out in time.

So noise none, longer life yes.

Finally installed the forged offload spherical bearings. I went with the shade tree method of drilling out the OE bushing rubber, then cutting the aluminum casing with a hack saw to get the stockers out. The new bushings pressed in like butter. Heat up the shock eyelet and throw the bearing in the freezer for 30 min.

My stock bushings were worn out and had a lot of play. After taking them apart, I want to find whoever engineered these bushings and kick them in the arse. Take my opinion with a grain of salt, but the OEM's are JUNK. 20k miles and I could rattle them with my bare hands. Unfortunately the new bushings didn't solve my problem 100%, but reduces the rattle and cluck significantly.

Swapped out my lower bushings, its actually super easy with the right tools.
Obviously you need a press, doesn't have to be huge because they aren't under a ton of pressure.
I went to the steel yard and got some scrap cut to 3 inches.
The holder is 2 7/8 and the press side is 2 3/16 thin wall
All in with cutting was $6
I put the bushings in the freezer which im sure made it a little easier but definitely not necessary.




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