Factory bead lock bolt question.

Houston Raptor · Sep 9, 2016

Trick_Raptor said:
I've only had them for a week with one wash. I was hoping you were in the rust-belt and that was the reason for rust but you are just down the road from me and I doubt it rains and snows there than here

I think you bought the ones I posted a month ago or so, if so, they'll rust, and quickly. I was so disappointed. I need to find some that hold up better as its a huge eyesore.

13terrainraptor · Sep 9, 2016

Yes, they will rust very quickly.

EricM · Sep 9, 2016

All black oxide coated steel will rust by just glancing at it. I would not use allen head bolts either- they are nice looking, but those can be a nightmare to remove. Especially the cheap ones, they strip out easy with the soft crappy metal. If you are using US made grade 5 or better, then maybe.

Trick.Raptor · Sep 9, 2016

Great. I've found the factory bolts as low as $3.48 so I guess I'll just have to suck-it-up and get those...

imjustkoda · Sep 11, 2016

Trick_Raptor said:
If you don't feel like spending $5 per bolt, you can go this route...

M10-1.5 x 25mm ISO 7380 Hex Drive Class 12.9 Black Oxide Finish Alloy Steel Button Socket Cap Screw - HoloKrome USA

I purchased some of these and they are a perfect fit.

I just saw this, I ordered two oem bolts to replace my stripped one and have a spare if I were to happen again. If I order again I'll definitely go the route you suggested. They look fantastic on your wheels.

---------- Post added at 05:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:15 AM ----------

Trick_Raptor said:
This is what it looks like with the alternative bolts. I still have the originals but they have some off-road rash on them along with my SE rings. New non-SE rings and bolts fixed that

Side note, how do you like the ko2's?

03svt · Sep 11, 2016

Not exactly off topic but I removed my rings a while ago for powder coating and before bolting them back up, chased the threads in the rim with a 3/8" tap. Just reading this thread now a little late I see you guys using an m10 x 1.5.

I did have some very small metal shavings from my tapping figuring it was just cleaning out the threads and old lock tite. and the factory bolts tightened up just fine.

Maybe a stupid question but it's been haunting me a little, do you guys see any problems with using the standard size tap?

highpowernut · Sep 12, 2016

03svt said:
Not exactly off topic but I removed my rings a while ago for powder coating and before bolting them back up, chased the threads in the rim with a 3/8" tap. Just reading this thread now a little late I see you guys using an m10 x 1.5.

I did have some very small metal shavings from my tapping figuring it was just cleaning out the threads and old lock tite. and the factory bolts tightened up just fine.

Maybe a stupid question but it's been haunting me a little, do you guys see any problems with using the standard size tap?

A standard 3/8 tap would be 16tpi( 1.588mm) and .375 diameter.

10 X1.5 is metric. The diameter is the same the thread pitch slightly different. 1.500

You removed a slight amount of material, as you stated, should live. But I would definitely check the torque and next time be sure of correct thread pattern before chasing the threads. As long as the bolts achieved proper torque I'd run it.

03svt · Sep 12, 2016

thank you for that info much appreciated. nice first post lol. when the rings do come off again and I have to chase lock tite out I'm assuming just go with a 3/8" bolt at that point?

highpowernut · Sep 12, 2016

03svt said:
thank you for that info much appreciated. nice first post lol. when the rings do come off again and I have to chase lock tite out I'm assuming just go with a 3/8" bolt at that point?

Go ahead and get a 10x1.5 tap and chase it again, shouldn't be a big deal.

Btw changed user name so no post count.
But I am new
Wayne

03svt · Sep 13, 2016

Gotcha. Thanks Wayne for the advice

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Factory bead lock bolt question.

Houston Raptor

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13terrainraptor

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EricM

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Trick.Raptor

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imjustkoda

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03svt

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highpowernut

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03svt

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