Recent content by Swacer_2

Of all of these, I think the one that ****** me off the most for you, is the oxidation on the shocks. That isn't going to be easy to fix, and will probably require the replacement. Sounds like you figured out the headlight, which, phew, that was lucky. For the bumper, I am starting to beleive...

Have a R on order, and a little concerned about the bumper light situation. With these new bumpers, there is no ability to fit large cubes. So whats the workaround?

Funny you mention the voodoo, my GT350 has extended crank from time to time if I hot restart it. Happens 1-2 times a summer. I"ve never been too worried about it, and after coming from a cammed LS3, any restart is shorter than a hot restart on a cammed car lol.

Question though, are we sure that nothing has been changed? Sure, 21 to 23 trucks were the same, but there was a lot of consolidation for 24, so its possible that harnesses and plugs aren't the same anymore. I already swapped my 22 to having digital dials, but i'm not sure I'd do it again not...

Its possible if there is too much tension and the tensioner isn't providing enough slack, that its wearing through the bearing on the idler that quick. However, 2 different people with it....thats odd. Oil levels look good?

I mean, who cares if it does. Buy the Borla system, open your windows, and just listen to the real stuff.

Oh yeah, no personal insult there, more of an insult on us all as a group haha.

Back of your manual should show it. It will be a layout showing you the routing of your belts. Swapping an idler is quick. You'll need a crowbar to de-tension the tensioner and slip the belt off. Then its a matter of taking the old one off and swapping the new one on, then putting the belt...

I hope the highs are better than a HUD, which I had in a camaro 12 years ago lol, and a heated steering wheel which has been a thing in most cars for over a decade. Otherwise, we have set the bar very very low haha.

See if you can get close enough to determine if its a tensioner or idler pulley. If its an idler, won't lie, easier to replace it yourself than go through the cycle with a dealer. They can randomly have a faulty bearing.

lol, we all do

S&B also claims to provide additional blower volume. Not sure how real that is, or if you really have to be beating on it to get any added value.

I think there is some flexibility in the "shock" service. My Gen 1 had 80k miles on it with the original shocks and they had only just developed a squeak if there was weight in the bed. You replace your shocks when they are bad, you don't just preemptively replace $5k parts.

I sense an overwhelming amount of boomer justification and degradation. This is the same sort of odd and awkward conversation I hear from my old man, its vomit-worthy.

40 miles isn't nearly enough to get a running average. 40 miles can be susceptible to climbing hills, or descending down hills, and will skew the numbers. By running more miles, you will remove the outliers and find a much stronger average. I don't think anyone has ever said that having more...