Recent content by Superman750

Mine looks like that. The “notch” tends to stay right on the line.

Last I checked Cobb/goose still can’t do 23’s, right?

I know I’m reviving a dead thread, but to confirm, the stock fuse will be able to run both off the fog light switch? What if it is paired with the upgraded driving lights from Ford Performance? Also, do we need to buy 2 or do they come as a pair?

Did you end up taking it in?

Is the turbo spool change significant? I took out those NVH silencers (people think they swirl the air) on my old Gen 2 and miss the turbo whistle on my Gen 3.

There’s a way to reset it. I think it is, press down and hold for 10 seconds after it is all the way down. Now do the same for up.

PM’d requesting a code please. Looking to make a purchase ASAP.

Me too!

Glad to hear it is working. Mine still is having issues. I have tried everything except getting a cable sleeve. I think I will just be looking for a new dash cam from here on out.

I tried the foil trick w/ a ferrite bead and it still doesn’t solve my problem. I wrapped the foil around the end of the plug at least 3-4 times. I then wrapped that with electrical tape to hide the foil. It is still interfering with my TPMS. At this point, my next course of action is to try a...

Thank you for putting this together. This is what I was thinking was meant by the initial post, but I wasn’t 100% sure.

Gotcha. My bad.

I tried a single ferrite bead on each end and was still getting interference. I am trying to picture what you mean by plastic connector. Would you be willing to post a picture of where you are wrapping the foil?

I’ll give it a shot. I’m assuming one on each end of the rear cam cable?

Sounds great. I don’t know if this will be any help at all, but I ran my rear cam wire along the tops of the doors instead of going down the A-pillar and along the bottom. My guess is that the interference is somewhere along the top of the windshield between the camera/mirror and the A-pillar. I...