NEW: Camburg Raptor 1.25 Uniball Upper Arms

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Sales_@_Camburg

Sales_@_Camburg

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Here you go ....

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jacobp

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How do the 1.25 compare to the 1.5? I think I'm gonna upgrade to the Icon 3.0 shocks. How much do these uca help and is it worth upgrading them? Should I also upgrade my tie rods?
 

Huck

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How do the 1.25 compare to the 1.5? I think I'm gonna upgrade to the Icon 3.0 shocks. How much do these uca help and is it worth upgrading them? Should I also upgrade my tie rods?

Chaning the UCA's replaces a weak link once you go to 3.0" and improve the articulation of the assembly and reduces binding.

the difference between 1.25 and 1.5 is the size of the sphreical bearing.

With 1.5 you will be required to run aftermarket wheels with a larger offset.
Also the 1.5 uses heims to connect to the frame, the 1.25 uses bushings.

If you are in a cold climate where it snows / salt is used on roads. I would suggest the 1.25 with bushings as heim joints and snow do not mix well.

I have had the 1.25 on my truck for over a year and they have performed flawlessly. If you go this route be sure to order a tube of Camburgs ptfe grease. Its great stuff.

Upgrading the shocks and the UCA's have no effect on tie-rods.

There is speculation that the upgraded tie-rods with heims is what might be leading to the multiple steering rack failures myself and @YukonJoe have experienced. but as said, it is speculation and not confirmed.
 

jacobp

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Chaning the UCA's replaces a weak link once you go to 3.0" and improve the articulation of the assembly and reduces binding.

the difference between 1.25 and 1.5 is the size of the sphreical bearing.

With 1.5 you will be required to run aftermarket wheels with a larger offset.
Also the 1.5 uses heims to connect to the frame, the 1.25 uses bushings.

If you are in a cold climate where it snows / salt is used on roads. I would suggest the 1.25 with bushings as heim joints and snow do not mix well.

I have had the 1.25 on my truck for over a year and they have performed flawlessly. If you go this route be sure to order a tube of Camburgs ptfe grease. Its great stuff.

Upgrading the shocks and the UCA's have no effect on tie-rods.

There is speculation that the upgraded tie-rods with heims is what might be leading to the multiple steering rack failures myself and @YukonJoe have experienced. but as said, it is speculation and not confirmed.

Thank you for all the help. With the 1.25 how often do you have to replace the bushings and re grease? What 1.25 UCAs would you recommend?
 
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There is speculation that the upgraded tie-rods with heims is what might be leading to the multiple steering rack failures myself and @YukonJoe have experienced. but as said, it is speculation and not confirmed.

If I am understanding this correctly, the speculation is upgraded tie-rods with UCA that have heims could possibly cause steering rack failures? I have the Rogue UCA's and my next upgrade I have planned was the tie-rods from Rogue.
 
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How do the 1.25 compare to the 1.5? I think I'm gonna upgrade to the Icon 3.0 shocks. How much do these uca help and is it worth upgrading them? Should I also upgrade my tie rods?

Our 1.25 and 1.50 upper arms are very similar but their are some differences. Depending on what you want and need will determine what version to go with.

The 1.25 version is cheaper since we're using a smaller uniball and polyurethane bushing at the frame pivot. These are non-adjustable and are a little more user friendlier with less maintenance.

The 1.50 versions use a larger more expensive uniball and use FK 7/8 heim joints at the frame pivot. This gives you the ability for more camber and caster adjustment if you need/want it and also a more solid connection point with a bearing versus a bushing. It is one more thing to check since with any kind of threaded part they can loosen with off-road use. The larger 1.50 uniball also has more mis-alignment and can offer more wheel travel if your coilovers allow for it.

As far as aftermarket steering goes, for most the stock steering is fine. If you want something stronger and higher quality or your stock parts are worn out, then would be the time to look at the upgraded steering. You also have the ability to double shear the outer heim with our spindles for a stronger connection point.

- Sales @ Camburg

---------- Post added at 11:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:41 AM ----------

Thank you for all the help. With the 1.25 how often do you have to replace the bushings and re grease? What 1.25 UCAs would you recommend?

The biggest thing with any uniball/heim is keeping them clean and lubed correctly. You dont want to use any type of grease or oil on as it will collect dirt and wear the part out faster and create friction noise. Use WD-40 to clean uniballs and heims. Then once it evaporates then use a teflon/PTFE based dry film lube to coat the bearing surfaces. This will keep stiction to a minimum and keeping the bearing moving smoothly and not attract dirt.

As far as the poly bushings go, thats something you can do once or twice a year most times. If you use the correct grease it doesnt really break down and lasts a long time. You dont want to use generic grease you'd buy at an auto parts store.

- Sales @ Camburg
 

Huck

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If I am understanding this correctly, the speculation is upgraded tie-rods with UCA that have heims could possibly cause steering rack failures? I have the Rogue UCA's and my next upgrade I have planned was the tie-rods from Rogue.


My self and @yukonjoe have gone through several steering racks. Common denominator is we both have Rpg tie-rods with heims.

Heims have no slop like the stock tie-rods and the delrin type bushing they mount in. So every hit etc is transferred directly into the rack. There is no give.

As I said it is speculation with some fact and engineering but has not been proven.

Cases of bad racks appear to be more prevalent with after market tie rods than those that run stock tie rods.

Rpg is not alone as rogue and alpha 1 both utilize heims
 
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