Rigid 20" Lightbar & Duallys - Installation Instructions

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BobbyVA

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Anyone have any trouble with the brackets for the D2s? Got them in but the passenger side outer light rubs the bumper...some close ups would be nice


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nukemustang

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Maybe a silly question, but has anyone swapped the hardware shipped with the kits to stainless steel? Has anyone had any issues with rust or corrosion with the brackets or fastners?

Thanks,

Tim
 

LS3 CJ7

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I just installed my 20" Rigid Combo in the bumper. I was surprised at how easy it actually was to do with the exception of reinstalling the bumperette covers. It is nearly impossible to get all 4 tabs back into place. Anyone have any tips? I was only able to get 3 of the 4 on both sides.
 

iSurvive

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I just installed my 20" Rigid Combo in the bumper. I was surprised at how easy it actually was to do with the exception of reinstalling the bumperette covers. It is nearly impossible to get all 4 tabs back into place. Anyone have any tips? I was only able to get 3 of the 4 on both sides.

Well that's why I recommend the non-removal method. It is extremely easy and the bumperettes never become an issue. Hope someone has tips for you.
 
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I started installing the 20 inch light bar and found this thread very helpful. I did come up with a shortcut that I didn't see here. 2 Actually.

I used posi-lock connectors for the switch wiring under the dash. Much easier to deal with.

I had issues measuring out the distances for the holes for the 20 inch bar. I have crappy eyesight and it's hard to even maneuver a small ruler in that space. I just stole a cake box from my wife (She does custom wedding cakes) and created a stencil for both sides out of the cardboard and taped it up to the frame. Placed the bracket as a sanity check and then drilled. The holes came out perfect. I'll post pictures when all of the lights are mounted.

Oh, yeah. I had my wife do all of the wiring connections. Her fingers are better at it than mine and it's good practice for when she wires her jeep up for auxiliary lighting.

Drilled 2 holes in the bumperettes rather than taking them off. That worked like a champ.
 

Achtung667

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Installing my 20". And I'm wondering about the tabs for the lower grill. Do you/I just bend them down out of site out of mind? Or maybe some weather stripping or some thing to fill in the gap around the light? Just trying to make it look as sexy as possible.
And if any one has any pics of how you wired it up into the engine bay that would be great. Thanks guys!!
 

AbnMP13

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Saw several comments about replacing the hardware due to bolts snapping/stripping. My lights are on order, anyone know how many and what size I need so I can have them accessible when the lights arrive?
 

Ironhorse07

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kind of late to the party here but I ordered the E-2 combo and D-2 from Freedom Motorsports during their black Friday sale. Just finally got around to even think about installing them. Looking at the hardware for the 20" though mine are 316 stainless. cool.

Update: thought I had time and weather today to install these but didn't pan out. While digging out the parts and instructions for the D2s, Rigid has gone to what they call U nuts on the outboard holes. We used to call them *** nuts but these are more robust.
Also, when I was looking through the instructions and what was in the fuse holders it got a little confusing about what the fuse requirements were. So I called Rigid and talked to their tech support and told him what I was trying to do. He said that the lights have under/over current protection built in so the line fuse did not matter as far as the lights go. So no worries about inline fuse holders. If you look at the far left you can make out the 316 stamped on the carriage bolt head, these are what came with the 20" mount. Looks like Rigid is listening.
 

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