GEN 2 COBB Accessport - Tuned by GooseTuned

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BoostCreep

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Long time Windfield suporter… love his business model and absolutely his work.


I have a Tstat I’ve not installed because I can’t wrap my head around how it would help where the coolant starts off at 90 plus in the mornings. My temps are over 200 before I leave the neighborhood in the morning. The temps STAY between 200-220 ALL of the time I’m driving. If it’s already wide open all the time, how does it help?

OEMs run most efficiently at operating temp, both fuel economy, and power. Generally they are not even reading the O2 sensors until reaching operating temps.

The TStat sets the coolant temperature floor and can’t have an effect on reducing coolant temp ceiling. So what am I missing?
My thoughts exactly, I also have one sitting around.
 

TwizzleStix

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……I have a Tstat I’ve not installed because I can’t wrap my head around how it would help where the coolant starts off at 90 plus in the mornings. My temps are over 200 before I leave the neighborhood in the morning. The temps STAY between 200-220 ALL of the time I’m driving. If it’s already wide open all the time, how does it help? OEMs run most efficiently at operating temp, both fuel economy, and power. Generally they are not even reading the O2 sensors until reaching operating temps. The TStat sets the coolant temperature floor and can’t have an effect on reducing coolant temp ceiling. So what am I missing?

Welp, you are correct in that the oem sets engine temp for best emissions and fuel efficiency. However, the “best power” is obtained and sustained at a bit lower temp. The oem target temp is 210 deg and with stock settings puts high speed running temp in the 215-220 range.

I prefer the 180 vs the 170 because the 180 is closer to the actual “best temp” of 190-200 deg plus it’s easier to sustain that best temp with stock cooling system.

My high speed running temp in any weather is 203-208 degF which it right where I want it. At low speed light load it will drop into 195-203 range. In my experience you’ll need to adjust several tables related to grill shutters and radiator fan operation.

I’m sure Goose will set you up properly with any temp, but there are definite short and long term advantages to lower (than stock) temps with zero disadvantages, if you run at least the 180. The 170 certainly isn’t a “problem”, but it allows the engine to run “too cool” such that your heater may not work well in 20 degF or lower ambients.

Know that when I lived in the “Deep South”, I ran 160 t-stats!
 

sixshooter_45

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Welp, you are correct in that the oem sets engine temp for best emissions and fuel efficiency. However, the “best power” is obtained and sustained at a bit lower temp. The oem target temp is 210 deg and with stock settings puts high speed running temp in the 215-220 range.

I prefer the 180 vs the 170 because the 180 is closer to the actual “best temp” of 190-200 deg plus it’s easier to sustain that best temp with stock cooling system.

My high speed running temp in any weather is 203-208 degF which it right where I want it. At low speed light load it will drop into 195-203 range. In my experience you’ll need to adjust several tables related to grill shutters and radiator fan operation.

I’m sure Goose will set you up properly with any temp, but there are definite short and long term advantages to lower (than stock) temps with zero disadvantages, if you run at least the 180. The 170 certainly isn’t a “problem”, but it allows the engine to run “too cool” such that your heater may not work well in 20 degF or lower ambients.

Know that when I lived in the “Deep South”, I ran 160 t-stats!

I've always thought that a 180° T-Stat might be a better fit for the reasons you stated.

Would it be beneficial to run it with stock radiator fan and or shutter settings?
 

Zeusmotorworks

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Welp, you are correct in that the oem sets engine temp for best emissions and fuel efficiency. However, the “best power” is obtained and sustained at a bit lower temp. The oem target temp is 210 deg and with stock settings puts high speed running temp in the 215-220 range.

I prefer the 180 vs the 170 because the 180 is closer to the actual “best temp” of 190-200 deg plus it’s easier to sustain that best temp with stock cooling system.

My high speed running temp in any weather is 203-208 degF which it right where I want it. At low speed light load it will drop into 195-203 range. In my experience you’ll need to adjust several tables related to grill shutters and radiator fan operation.

I’m sure Goose will set you up properly with any temp, but there are definite short and long term advantages to lower (than stock) temps with zero disadvantages, if you run at least the 180. The 170 certainly isn’t a “problem”, but it allows the engine to run “too cool” such that your heater may not work well in 20 degF or lower ambients.

Know that when I lived in the “Deep South”, I ran 160 t-stats!
Thank you sir... funny thing is I have a 180 sitting on the bench for that very reason. Just have not had anyone explain satisfactorily how a lower temp stat alone was an advantage on an otherwise OE coolant system.
 

Karter01

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Question: Its time for me to do plugs but haven't tuned my truck yet. Can I go ahead and order the colder plugs and run them for awhile before I tune it? Any downsides?
 

icecoldak

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Question: Its time for me to do plugs but haven't tuned my truck yet. Can I go ahead and order the colder plugs and run them for awhile before I tune it? Any downsides?

Yes you can get the colder plugs!!! I ask Goose master and he said no problem to do that!!!
 

IU89

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So, unmarried accessport verified by COBB (ECU AND TCM V3) but how do I know if a previous owner put a tune on the truck and never removed it? Saw caution about only overwriting a stock or other COBB tune. Can the accessport first load a stock tune? Need this sorted before I begin a real 91 octane AZ NV CA ECU and TCM tune by Goosetuned.
 
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