To add to that last but I think the appeal to the mod is parts availability and newer technology more than added travel. You get to use a longer shock yes. It still constrained by the stock geometry.
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For Nate and for science I checked it out. It’s fine. Especially if the IWE is actuated but fine either way. You don’t run in 4WD do you? Honestly I didn’t think this was an issue when you asked the question. With this mod if there’s any extra usable travel it likely won’t be in down travel as the relocating of the upper mount pretty much accounts for the shock height. I think the geometry is maxed (or close) even with the stock shock at full droop. Hope that answers your question.
To add to that last but I think the appeal to the mod is parts availability and newer technology more than added travel. You get to use a longer shock yes. It's still constrained by the stock geometry.
The only times I've had to run 4wd is in the rain when the course is really slick and fighting for traction, and then we're all extra careful with throttle application. But i think about G2s and G1s bombing silt beds in baja and i always just assume that they are getting after it in 4wd to avoid the nightmare of getting stuck! I tell myself that maybe the front diff isn't as fragile as we're all afraid it is. Hell some of us never thought twice about running a 35" on a dinky toyota front diff and most of us only ever had to deal with a busted CV or two.
I think your second statement is the real allure of these swaps, more fluid and larger components will hopefully lead to better performing and more durable parts!
I, personally, have always hoped that the extra (alleged) travel was at least partially split to allow for more droop than a stock G1 setup. With a full 35" tire (Generals) I make regular contact with my inner fender liners at full bump on our monthly race course. The idea that I would potentially be allowing for more up travel in the same scenario has been another reason i am dragging my feet on my own install. I hope the part i highlighted above is close to 100% accurate.
I really appreciate you checking that for the sake of an actual technical conversation and for your thoughts on the subject since you're able to view it and manipulate it rather than just my mind's random thoughts!
Awesome build on the front coil buckets, etc. So, did I read that correct that you have the option of bolting that in place? Does the instructions say it is temporary til you get to a welding shop or not? Not trying to pic apart here, just seems like a shear moment with any kind of bolt. That plasma cutter sure does a neat cut of the metal.
I was just more curious than anything. That at least makes the conversion a more of a home project as well. Had always figured this would be a weld in project only. Thanks for the clarification, I just like to learn shiit. Keep the build going!Thanks man. That's correct, KHC creates provision for bolt-in install, not temporary, permanent. Obviously weld-in is always an option. And yes, primary load cases here will be shear depending on the load vector, along with a little bolt tension, but you have plate against plate along the frame rail and old bucket also aiding to dissipate the forces. I did bust out the abacus and crudely ran the numbers and in all cases short of full-send, I'm at ease with the numbers. that being said, I'm still burning them in for sure.
Its been a month, any updates or thoughts for those on the fence? I've got G1 and G2 3.0s available near me and still trying to decide if the juice is worth the squeeze for me.