Rebuilding a 6.2 Engine

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PD1744

PD1744

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Visited my engine yesterday. Installed the new chain guide bolt, torqued them to spec, and pulled the grenade pins on the tensioners.

Then went for the last 90° turn on the head bolts. I could have stopped after that. I’m in pretty decent shape but man that was a workout. Only a couple felt like they were about to break though.

Spent a little bit of time chasing the tips of the rocker arms (don’t know what they’re called) that had fallen off. They are a cup that sits on the ball bearing and held on by this orange sleeve. The part that acts on the valve stem.

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No clue how to go about replacing these. I guess I could call the dealer again. You can buy the entire rocker shaft assemblies for a decent price but I really didn’t want to. Thankfully I found all of the missing pieces by some stroke of luck.

Then took another attempt at changing valve springs but this time with the heads mounted. Quite a few lessons learned here.

Started with #8. Threw the upper plug in and filled it full of air. So the first thing I learned @BenBB is the Lisle tool is incredible at extracting keepers. About as easy as advertised.

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However I (YMMV) could not for the life of me get them installed using said tool. The keepers would never seat properly and I became genuinely concerned about damaging something.

I ended up using my other tool, the sketchy compressor, to install them and managed to not loose any eyes or fingers. So that’s cool.

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I did #8 and #7 and stopped because I ran out of Melling springs because, if y’all remember, I jacked up the quantity when ordering originally. I did have one new set of OEM springs but opted to just order more Mellings for the rest. I’ve also ordered the crows foot style, Ford 2 valve tool, that I linked earlier that indexes off the cam shaft to try. So hopefully through all my tool trial and error I at least save any of you guys some headache.

Couple other observations with the punch style tool. Not sure how easy it would be to use toward the rear of the engine while it was in a truck. Space gets a little tight back there. Stuff something in the lower oil passages when doing this work as keepers tend to wind up in places you don’t intend them to be at times. Avoided some near catastrophes here.

That’s all. I should have the valve train buttoned up by next visit. I think I’ll end up ordering a new replacement for that cracked valve cover. Need to get the good one and the timing cover cleaned up.
 
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Oh also the other heater pipe I ordered which was a Dorman part not OEM came in with a little bit shorter of a nipple. I looked at the truck to see if it would be an issue. I’ll proceed with this one for now. Shouldn’t be hard to change out if it’s an issue.

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And also last night I saw a dude on one of the FB Raptor classified groups selling a rebuilt 6.2 short block for you guys looking but now I can’t seem to find it. I remember it was in Tennessee and it was punched .020 over with JE pistons I think. I believe he was asking $3400. I’ll see if I can find it.
 

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There's so much more involved at rebuilding one of these engines, than the old v8s of the 60-70's. Thanks for this thread, it's an experience in the least to see through your eyes and to learn by your mistakes and that I would never attempt to do what you are doing. lol. Seriously, keep it going, I hope it runs in a Raptor one day.
 

MurderedOutSVT

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Oh also the other heater pipe I ordered which was a Dorman part not OEM came in with a little bit shorter of a nipple. I looked at the truck to see if it would be an issue. I’ll proceed with this one for now. Shouldn’t be hard to change out if it’s an issue.

View attachment 336100

And also last night I saw a dude on one of the FB Raptor classified groups selling a rebuilt 6.2 short block for you guys looking but now I can’t seem to find it. I remember it was in Tennessee and it was punched .020 over with JE pistons I think. I believe he was asking $3400. I’ll see if I can find it.
If you can find it, please let me know
 

BenBB

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Well hell, at least that Lisle tool makes removal easy! I think you're right about those rearmost cylinders, I have a feeling the firewall/cowl is going to interfere. Looking forward to plan B heh, here's hoping the next tool works better! I was wondering about those little retainer bastards going back in, I was hoping to slather them with a sticky assembly grease and stuff them in the spring hat, but even then I'm not sure. Definitely going to line the head with rags, good to hear the engine didn't eat any of em heh.

From what I've read the rocker tips are actually little hydraulic lifters. Funny thing is that on my '13, there's not any of those orange phenolic sleeves, just like a spherical thing with a flat side that meets the valve stem. Ford doesn't sell them separately, or even the individual rockers that I can see, just the whole shaft assembly (like you said, not too expensive but not cheap either). The other funny thing is that after scouring forums I found one mention here of a collapsed lifter (no further details, was supposedly replaced under warranty) and another that said some of those lifters could be pushed in and out by hand but others didn't move at all (not sure if he freed up the stuck ones or just replaced the assembly). Mine didn't move at all when I had them out, but I did notice there's an oil hole right above them on the rocker...

Great to hear the last head bolt torque sequence went smoothly!! Appreciate the updates!
 
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i may try to rebuild mine. i have a used motor coming in. figure i just pay the $500 core charge and see if over the year can rebuild mine and have a spare. i need you number for those 2am texts i will be sending you, asking questions......

PM inbound with number for advice on what NOT to do.
 
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