GEN 1 2014 Raptor rear diff

[Alar]

Hey guys.

So my rear diff seal and bearings are shot. Probably most of the oil has esaped... So now i have a mission to find new bearings. Thanks to the microbial situation in the world, ordering from US is quite a hassle and shipping costs have increased by quite a lot.

Does someone have information what manufacurer made the bearings in my differential, and what is the bearing model nr? I need the ones from driveshaft side for sure, and maybe other internal bearings too. I might be lucky enough to find them from my local bearing supplier.

By a miracle my local US car and parts dealer had a spare seal laying around. So only bearings are missing from total happiness.

 

[MTF]

Sorry to hear that.
Hopefully you didn't burn yours out as bad as I did mine.

I can tell you that when I burned out every bearing in the housing,
Ford had to replace everything except the axles and outer bearings.

I mean a new carriage, ring and pinion gear, and all related parts to complete the assemble.

It was covered under warranty but I believe the bill was $3,500 +/-, labor included.
I wanted a whole new rear but Ford warranty wouldn't go for it.

Take look here:
https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2014-f...v8-gas/universals-and-rear-axle--differential

Also, use Mobil 1 gear oil.

 

[B E N]

Contact Timken bearing and get the part numbers, you may be able to get them to ship directly to you. I think they are part number 5304-05069402. Once you have that it will be much easier to get them locally rather than trying to get the ford version of the part.

 

[Alar]

Thanks guys for your help. But issue was simpler than expected. Pinion nut was loose. And my main mechanic told me 3 weeks ago when we noticed play on u joint near pinion that I need a differential bearing set and differential rebuild. Probably an invoice over 1000 euros. At the moment it took me 50 euros and new oil...

I don't know if it was accidental overlooking or he just wanted to make some money of me...

Differential case has quite noticeable pinion grooves on it now tho.

 

[Canuck714]

Not sure what access you have to suppliers or Amazon..lol
but you can use the master kit from Yukon.

Yukon Gear & Axle (YK F9.75-D) Master Overhaul Kit for Ford 9.75 Differential

 

[FordTechOne]

Thanks guys for your help. But issue was simpler than expected. Pinion nut was loose. And my main mechanic told me 3 weeks ago when we noticed play on u joint near pinion that I need a differential bearing set and differential rebuild. Probably an invoice over 1000 euros. At the moment it took me 50 euros and new oil...

I don't know if it was accidental overlooking or he just wanted to make some money of me...

Differential case has quite noticeable pinion grooves on it now tho.

View attachment 156453

How did you tighten the pinion nut? Without an initial preload measurement, it’s not possible to know what turning torque is needed in order to set proper preload. Your mechanic quoted a rebuild because a loose pinion nut is not something you can just tighten to repair. At this point I would highly recommend new pinion bearings, crush sleeve, and seal at minimum. With the pinion having been that loose the bearings are most likely damaged.

Also, with those marks on the differential, I’d be surprised if the pinion gear does not have damage. How long were you running it like that?

 

[Alar]

I ran it lightly and as little as possible for 3 weeks. 2 of those weeks I was waiting for my mechanic to order the parts. He was not able to do it. So I tried to get bearings from another shop, but no luck. Yesterday evening was the first time I was brainstorming about that issue. And then loose nut idea popped in my mind.

New seal was applied, no leaks or play at the moment. Bearings seem fine, but I did not disassemble the differential, so I don't know for sure if the pinion bearings are good or not.

What is the correct procedure for tightening the nut? And the spec for torque? I tried to Google it but no luck, got only some ford mustang paper about differential.

 

[FordTechOne]

Pinion bearing preload is measured in inch-pounds (lb-in) or Newton-Meters (Nm) of turning torque. A beam type torque wrench is required to measure the turning torque. The pinion nut must be tightened in stages; each time additional torque is applied, the turning torque must be checked. When the turning torque reaches the specification of 16-29 lb-in or 1.8-3.3 Nm, the preload is within spec.

As torque is applied to the pinion nut, the crush sleeve collapses. This sleeve maintains the preload between the inner and outer bearings. It can be very difficult to collapse without a pinion flange holding tool or impact wrench. If you are able to reach the turning torque specification easily without feeling resistance from the collapsible spacer, the crush sleeve is collapsed to far and will need to be replaced. Also always be sure to use a new pinion nut; they are not reusable and will end up backing off/losing preload if reused.

 

[Alar]

Seems I am going to need a rebuild after all. We didn't do it at all like you said. I don't know how the shop replaced my differential last year, but I am quite sure they too did not do it like that.

Since the nut loosened, and we had no idea what the proper technicue was we used Locktite thread sealant (since it loosened...) and torqued until we felt no play on the bearing... Then cleaned the inside, sealed it up, and added new 75w140 oil...

So what can I expect now? What should I be looking out for?

 

[FordTechOne]

Seems I am going to need a rebuild after all. We didn't do it at all like you said. I don't know how the shop replaced my differential last year, but I am quite sure they too did not do it like that.

That would explain why it continues to loosen up and leak hear oil.

Since the nut loosened, and we had no idea what the proper technicue was we used Locktite thread sealant (since it loosened...) and torqued until we felt no play on the bearing... Then cleaned the inside, sealed it up, and added new 75w140 oil...

So what can I expect now? What should I be looking out for?

If it’s still quiet and not whining/grinding by some miracle, follow the procedure I posted above to properly preload the pinion bearings.