High idle problem

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Ratpatator

Ratpatator

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High-Flow or the Kooks Green Cats?
Stock cats are the best then Kooks Green Cats, both usually need rear O2 extenders.
the cheaper high-flow ones usually require the rear O2s to be turned off.

If you think you might have some bad fuel, I would get some Star-Tron Enzyme fuel treatment.
I use this twice a year, once in the spring and another treatment in the fall.

Finding a small vacuum leak is tough on these new engines.
That is why they do smoke tests now.

I'm like you, it was much easier back in the day, all you needed was some starter fluid an if she raced up you knew.

I don't believe I've ever heard any one that tried the BBK TB say it was good, all had problems.
You don't need it, there is nothing you're doing to increase the engine's capacity to suck in more air.
The stock TB can deliver more than enough air for increase air/fuel mix in the Tune.

Also I want to add that there have been times when switching Tunes or adding a revised Tune that glitches have happen.
Sometimes I has to reinstall twice to three times.
You need to pay attention to not have anything running, nothing on, open or close doors and windows, step on the brakes....ect...
I usually keep a battery tender on while doing a flash.

I wish I would not have done the bbk now I didn't realize how close in size it is to the stock intake. Should have just put the money in the pot for the Whipple.

I do make sure to turn everything of even the radar detector and cell booster. I have not put a charger on it tho. I'll try reflashing it tomorrow with one on it.

Thanks for the advice.
 

MTF

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I have another suggestion,
check the connections for the TB and you should pop off the three PCM plugs.
Everything is low voltage 0-5 volts and milliamps for sensors.
Any corrosion or loose pins will mess with things.
A weak battery can cause problems too.
 

MTF

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As far as I know, there isn't a calibrated Tune that you can load to the PCM in HP Tuner's format.
I tried back in 2012 but couldn't get anything to work for my Raptor.
Guys were able to do some stuff with the F150s but were having issues as well.
Since most of the tables were for Mustangs.
So I hung it up and never looked back.
You can edit some SCT files, but it's limited.

If you go to HP Tuner/Forum and look at all the guys trying to get the Gen 1 to work with HP Tuners, 99.9% have no luck.
And forget about it if it's a Whipple, Roush, Shelby, Livernois Tune.

With the Gen 2s it seems like they can play more.
I didn't go through a lot of threads for the Gen 2, would most likely I will never own one.
 
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My 11 Raptor is tuned with HPtuners, so is my mustang. Again, there are tunes in the repository. I don't post anecdotal information or about things I don't personally have first hand experience with. You can grab a base tune from the repository from a truck with similar mods and write it to your file, then fine tune it via driving or dyno testing. HPtuners does not write tunes, that is on the operator, its professional hardware/software, it isn't designed to be plug and play like SCT.

@MTF why don't you give HPtuners another shot. Your info is 6 years old, and you don't seem know what is current... stop trying to defend the position, your spreading misinformation please stop defending it. That screenshot is the active tune from my truck, what more proof do you need?
 

MTF

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I have the 2010 1/2 Whipple, and did look at the forum again before my last post.
If you can find something, I'll take a look again.
And if you do PM me so we don't flood this thread.

And sorry for derailing your thread Raptatator
 
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OP
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I have another suggestion,
check the connections for the TB and you should pop off the three PCM plugs.
Everything is low voltage 0-5 volts and milliamps for sensors.
Any corrosion or loose pins will mess with things.
A weak battery can cause problems too.

I'll have to check those plugs. It's definitely not just bad fuel. I put a lot of miles on it and have already ran 2 1/2 tanks of good 91 fuel and hasn't changed.

No worries about derailment it all good info. I want to do a SC at some point and I'll definitely go with Dyno tune instead of box tunes then.

I did have AutoZone check the battery and alternator and say they were good but I have had them be wrong before. It has a bigger battery than it needs. I had to trim some of the battery box and inner fender to make it fit.
 

Canuck714

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I would try pulling the BBK throttle body and go back to stock. You may need to unload and reload the tune when you do.
I had a similar high idle situation one time. I have a tuned Roush SC, but the situation may be the same.
I had pulled the twin TB off to clean it. While off, I opened and closed the blade by hand to spray out the throttle body blades etc., reinstalled, plugged everything in, and fired it up.. Instantly ran at high idle, so I shut it off. Turned the key forward to the accessory switch and punched peddle to the flor several times then cycled key back to off. Fired it back up and it was back to normal idle.
Guessing me opening throttle by hand, required the TB to calibrate with the peddle once I plugged it back in.

Whatever it was, mine went back to normal after the reset.
 

MTF

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I want to do a SC at some point and I'll definitely go with Dyno tune instead of box tunes then.

This term of "Boxed Tunes" and "Canned Tunes" does not apply any longer unless is not from a reputable Tuner.

I can tell you, these email Tunes from reputable Tuners is about as good as it gets.
Our vendors like Whipple, JDM, 5 Star, Livernois all take great pride in their Tunes they sell and want to have that great reputation.
All have hundreds and hundreds of files from Dyno Tuning at their own facility.
They only need to know what mods you have done and they will compile and adjust if needed, the correct calibration.
Now sometimes people use stuff that's not recommended and/or they may not have had that combination on a Dyno for testing.
That's when data logging comes into play.

Doing a Dyno Tune is ok and if a shop is close to you and a Tuner that's highly versed in a Raptor, that's great!
But 99% of the time this is difficult for most owners.
They may get another few HP out it, it is safer to see in real time the dyno results, to check if your getting into a lean condition.
It's not like the old days, were there are all sorts of hands on tweaks that can be done.
There's really not much to be gained, if you have to drive hundreds of miles to get one done, only to go back if you need tweaks.
There is nothing that can't be corrected with data logging on these newer vehicles and the PCM.
Driving is another situation, if shifting isn't right or too hard or bouncing of the rev limiter.
Again this has to be corrected by data logging whether you Dyno Tune or use a emailed Tune.
Now, having the Tuner sitting in your truck with a laptop, and doing pulls down the street which would be great and faster results.
It is far different than just sitting on a Dyno.
I went through this myself with Whipple's Ford Calibrator, there wasn't much he had to tweak,
it was only the transmission calibration part of the Tune that needed tweaking.
 
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