What did you do to your Raptor today? (Gen2)

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Nick@Apollo-Optics

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So best of both worlds type of deal. Was liking the full Bedrug as it would hide the drain tubes for the Retrax cover. Is there a way to hide/tack the tubes to the side so that they would not be hanging out and subject to damage?

Ahh, fair point on hiding the tubes. Mine are just left exposed under my Retrax bed cover. But the full BedRug would help in hiding them.

Thanks brother loved the shipping, super fast.


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My pleasure, brother! Stay safe over there!
 

hedonist222

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Typically would not recommend moulded concrete as shoring. It is not structural and susceptible to shattering under a pinpoint load, such as that it might experience at the hard metal edge of a jack stand. A fresh 2x6 or 2x10 would actually be better in your
application.



It is 100% okay to lift from the differential housing, and even better in many respects to lifting from the axle tube or spring plate.



What bolt did you strip?



I would NOT recommend removing the u-bolts. If you feel you must, consult a factory repair manual (NOT a Haynes or Childress single volume book you get at local parts shop) to see if it requires u-bolt replacement. Many, or perhaps most, will require replacement as these bolts stretch and are not suitable for reuse in a lot of applications. I don't have torque specs handy, but they are usually well north of 100 ft-lbs., often north of 150 ft-lbs. You'll also want to ensure your torque wrench is up to the task as average torque wrenches may not necessarily go that high. I should also point out the the upper 10% of a torque wrench's range (as well as the lower 10%) is typically understood to be non-usable UNLESS the torque wrench's manual explicitly states this.

I agree - most everything is shut down - so this concrete had to suffice.
Thanks - will definitely get something more sustainable soon.

I stripped a lug nut.

I wanted to unbolt the U bolts to get between the leaf plates - to clean and lubricate.

Who knows where the sound is coming from.
Maybe I'll get my son to hop on the carrier and I'll audibly try to figure out whats creaking back there.
But that means I'll have to get the wheels back on before he hops.

Thanks for the tip about torque wrenches. Mine goes up to 200 lbs.
But its a long range torque wrench - i think 40 to 200.
Therefore I know accuracy goes down but generally the central spectrum is more accurate than either extremes.

Thanks for all your input, tplee.
 

Troutrad

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Typically would not recommend moulded concrete as shoring. It is not structural and susceptible to shattering under a pinpoint load, such as that it might experience at the hard metal edge of a jack stand. A fresh 2x6 or 2x10 would actually be better in your
application.



It is 100% okay to lift from the differential housing, and even better in many respects to lifting from the axle tube or spring plate.



What bolt did you strip?



I would NOT recommend removing the u-bolts. If you feel you must, consult a factory repair manual (NOT a Haynes or Childress single volume book you get at local parts shop) to see if it requires u-bolt replacement. Many, or perhaps most, will require replacement as these bolts stretch and are not suitable for reuse in a lot of applications. I don't have torque specs handy, but they are usually well north of 100 ft-lbs., often north of 150 ft-lbs. You'll also want to ensure your torque wrench is up to the task as average torque wrenches may not necessarily go that high. I should also point out the the upper 10% of a torque wrench's range (as well as the lower 10%) is typically understood to be non-usable UNLESS the torque wrench's manual explicitly states this.

Pretty sure 150 ft-lbs; at least have read that on these posts.
 

hedonist222

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Those brake calipers look like they’re itching to be painted... Did mine...nice little accent behind your good looking wheels.

Haha
I'll be honest
I was tempted to and I remembered you that did yours
Maybe next time but even then it'll be a gunmetal color or similar.

What accent do you mean?
The flowerpot pedestal I hijacked? Lol
 

Troutrad

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Very nice but wondering why you opted for the rug that only covers the bottom and not the sides?

Pragmatic and Practical. Can remove it for sloppy loads. Don’t really know why anyone needs a bedrug on the sides...I’ve never loaded anything on the sides before and I don’t kneel on the sides, pretty much the only reason I got the bedrug. Since I have the spray-in, the sides are protected. I think only advantages of the full bedrug is you don’t get anything in the little gaps between rug and bed (but that’s a pretty minor concern for me) and I suppose the full bed rug looks more finished but I’m perfectly happy with the way the floor/tailgate one looks. Definitely like the tailgate gap covered by having this all one piece...that always bugged me on my other truck; crap always collects there.

(Also considering builtright racks for sides. Easier install without side rug there)

Cheaper option to get everything I need/want.
 
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Todd Turbo S

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Nice job, that’s a lot of work and well worth the satisfaction. I have a theory on why sometimes it’s so difficult to remove our wheel lug nuts, On my Gen1, there was rust on the studs up to the lug nuts, I’m thinking it’s causing the lug nuts to “seize”, whereby making it difficult and requiring more force to break the lugs loose and causing them to strip. On my Gen2, I used Por15 Top Coat to paint the inner part of the rotors and then sealed with Nyalic, in hopes this will prevent rusting. Thought I’d share.

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swedensky

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So best of both worlds type of deal. Was liking the full Bedrug as it would hide the drain tubes for the Retrax cover. Is there a way to hide/tack the tubes to the side so that they would not be hanging out and subject to damage?

full bed rug doesn’t hide the tubes..I don’t have my truck right now, this is the best pic I have on hand, if you zoom
Or squint you can see they’re still visible in the back there3E088B6F-CCC6-4BA7-8334-046227E62B18.jpeg
 
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