GEN 1 Livernois 6.6L Stroker

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Yeah I’m currently Devers +3s, Camburg shackles, so there is about 1” more, but still within the driveshaft limits. Shame that I ****** up the lighter 1 piece drive shaft and have to go back to OEM for now. But can’t complain too much since it’s covered

Okay, I am not following what the solution is to this problem, or better yet, what you should do to prevent this problem from happening again. Are you stating one should run shackles on Deavers to get the ride height back to the stock ride height? By adding shackles to Deavers, you are increasing the droop. From reading the posts above, it appears that the extra droop is what caused the shaft bushing and seal to fail. So would it be better on the shaft bushing and seal to run Deavers with stock shackles?

I have Deavers +3. I was getting ready to switch out my shackles, but before I do that, I want to make sure I am not about to do something that is going to put me in your position.
 

AJS44

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Shackles shouldn’t make a difference unless you go to longer ones. The way I fixed it was new t case since the driveshaft destroyed the entire output snout and a custom driveshaft from axle exchange in New Jersey. Axle exchange is great to work with and they’ll make whatever size driveshaft you need. All they need is the length between the transfer case and the axle
 
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nick0331

nick0331

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When I was considering a n/a 6.6 build livernios told me it would be more like 530rwhp
Thats is in a perfect scenario. You have to account for 37” tires, heavier aftermarket suspension, internal cage, full bed rack with gear and 2 spares, not to mention we dyno’d at near 7,000’
 

RaptorN/Abuild

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Thats is in a perfect scenario. You have to account for 37” tires, heavier aftermarket suspension, internal cage, full bed rack with gear and 2 spares, not to mention we dyno’d at near 7,000’
I see how 37 in tires would matter but why would heavy suspension, internal cage, bed rack, and 2 spares matter
 
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nick0331

nick0331

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I see how 37 in tires would matter but why would heavy suspension, internal cage, bed rack, and 2 spares matter
More weight over stock. More weight on the tires on the dyno rollers = more friction and HP loss. While more friction in an offroad, wet, or icy environment is a good thing. In the case of registering power, the less force required to move the tires on the dyno rollers the better.
 

bigrig

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The way I understand it is the only time weight that matters on the dyno is the weight of the rotating mass in your drivetrain (including the wheels). The heavier these parts are, the more parasitic loss you will experience from the engine and the less power you put to the ground.

Another way to look at it is if you stripped your vehicle down so it weighed 1000 lbs; Would your truck's engine make any more power? No. Would the truck be faster in the 1/4 mile in the real world? Yes. The dyno is just recording the engine's output while it isn't under load.

I think the process of entering the curb weight into the dyno is to simulate what the real world results will be, but that metric is different than what power the engine is putting out while it isn't under load.

Take this explanation with a grain of salt, I have never dyno'd any of my vehicles.
 
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nick0331

nick0331

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Yes. But the only thing that should affect the numbers are the tires and the elevation
The shops dyno was showing 26% loss for altitude at time of tune. And this is a very high end shop who builds several thousand HP late model cars.
 
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