Eibach Pro-lift springs installed with pics and comments

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MZRaptor72

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1.25" Faction Fab wheel spacers/adapters from Stage 3. They're identical to the Bora spacers/adapters. Would have gotten the Boras but weren't in stock at the time. Hub-centric and forged. You'd have to trim the studs about 1/4" in the rear but the front ones fit fine, no trimming needed. I put red loctite on the factory studs to bolt to the spacers/adapters and torqued to spec. Several hundred off-road miles and no issues.

So what is the deal with having to trim studs in rear but not front?? Why would they be different lengths? And how did you do it without completely boogering them up as far as threads? Do you get rust once you’ve gotten into them? Sorry for rapid fire questions... but I’ve heard this and find it strange!


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GR8Ride

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Thanks wfo. I will plead my case one more time with them next week. Fingers crossed!


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FrodoTBaggins88

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So what is the deal with having to trim studs in rear but not front?? Why would they be different lengths? And how did you do it without completely boogering them up as far as threads? Do you get rust once you’ve gotten into them? Sorry for rapid fire questions... but I’ve heard this and find it strange!


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So the wheels have small recesses for the studs to go into that gives you an extra bit of room. The front studs are shorter than the rear and they have a different coating on them, they're different studs altogether. I tested clearance by putting some playdoh type stuff into the stud recess and fitting the wheel and checking to see if it made contact and it did not. The rear studs were just a hair too long so you just wrap some painters tape around them where you need to cut and lop them off with an angle grinder. If you cut them fast and straight it shouldn't mess up the threads really. You can run a chamfering tool on them for a second just to clean up the sharp edges of the cut. I'm not too worried about rust inside that sealed nut with loctite in it but yeah I suppose you could get some surface rust on the face where you trimmed the bolt. I live in the desert and avoid mud/water like the plague anyway haha.

I should add these are the 2019 beadlock-capable wheels that have the recesses. I'm not sure if the other wheels have the recesses but I would assume they did.
 

MZRaptor72

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So the wheels have small recesses for the studs to go into that gives you an extra bit of room. The front studs are shorter than the rear and they have a different coating on them, they're different studs altogether. I tested clearance by putting some playdoh type stuff into the stud recess and fitting the wheel and checking to see if it made contact and it did not. The rear studs were just a hair too long so you just wrap some painters tape around them where you need to cut and lop them off with an angle grinder. If you cut them fast and straight it shouldn't mess up the threads really. You can run a chamfering tool on them for a second just to clean up the sharp edges of the cut. I'm not too worried about rust inside that sealed nut with loctite in it but yeah I suppose you could get some surface rust on the face where you trimmed the bolt. I live in the desert and avoid mud/water like the plague anyway haha.

I should add these are the 2019 beadlock-capable wheels that have the recesses. I'm not sure if the other wheels have the recesses but I would assume they did.

I really appreciate the response. I too am in a 2019 with the beadlocks. I’m planning on springs to lift and level... and think i want spacers to push them out a bit as well. But I’m planning on stock tires for now too. Im thinking i shouldn’t get rubbing after spacers right?


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FrodoTBaggins88

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I really appreciate the response. I too am in a 2019 with the beadlocks. I’m planning on springs to lift and level... and think i want spacers to push them out a bit as well. But I’m planning on stock tires for now too. Im thinking i shouldn’t get rubbing after spacers right?


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No problem man. I do get a tiny tiny amount of rubbing at full lock with some compression but it's not enough to even leave a mark on the plastic inside the fender so I just didn't bother trimming it. I will probably go down to 1" or .75" spacers in the rear because they are sticking out just enough to fling small pebbles so I get the occasional pebble ding off the side of the truck. 1.25" is perfect in the front with the Eibachs. It's pretty much dead flush with the fender in the front.
 

MZRaptor72

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No problem man. I do get a tiny tiny amount of rubbing at full lock with some compression but it's not enough to even leave a mark on the plastic inside the fender so I just didn't bother trimming it. I will probably go down to 1" or .75" spacers in the rear because they are sticking out just enough to fling small pebbles so I get the occasional pebble ding off the side of the truck. 1.25" is perfect in the front with the Eibachs. It's pretty much dead flush with the fender in the front.

What brand were you looking at for 1” or .75”... and how do those work? Whereas the wider ones come with preinstalled studs... would a .75” just be a spacer using existing studs?


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Nick@GotExhaust

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Just wanted to let you guys know we offer and stock the EIbach coils. We have 2 sets left in stock right now. Message us for info and pricing!
 
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