GEN 2 Need stereo in truck

[Edbert]

That message comes from Mr. Smurfslayer to anyone who knows him at least.

So far I've not done much to my Raptor other than make payments and some piddly crap not worth listing. I do enjoy a good project tho, here's the current (version 4.x?) mock up of a custom console for a 50+ year old Mustang. In that case I'm not sure why I'm considering a sound system, can only (barely) hear it at a stop light, but top down and nearly open long tubes is a different kind of music.

 

[Kyle@Apollo-Optics]

I will say, I personally believe the Helix interface is better than the mosconi along with the remote. Have you considered the Helix MK2? That’s what I’m running and I have 3-way active front, rears, and sub. It’s an incredible piece of hardware.

I have considered the Helix, but I have not been able to find anyone who sells it new. I see $850 on eBay. I can get the Mosconi for a little more than that.


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[dhmcfadin]

I have considered the Helix, but I have not been able to find anyone who sells it new. I see $850 on eBay. I can get the Mosconi for a little more than that.


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Nick Apicella- Apicella Auto Sound is an authorized dealer. He’s on diyma. That’s who I’ve ordered all my helix gear from.

 

[autokraftgt]

nice install sir!

 

[Kyle@Apollo-Optics]

Nick Apicella- Apicella Auto Sound is an authorized dealer. He’s on diyma. That’s who I’ve ordered all my helix gear from.

Dom,

Can you PM me what all you had him order and about what you paid? Thank you


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[nah_tan]

Good looking stall thus far and thanks for sharing. It appears you ran your power and ground under the truck? Is it 1/0 gauge? Do you think a 1/0 gauge could be run inside the truck without issue? I'm swapping out my 4 gauge run (firewall along passenger side trim) for some 1/0 and upgrading to Zen/Audiocontrol/Piioneer with MTI behind seat dual 10 in sub box. Also, is there a proper grounding spot or should I suck it up and run to the batter ground as well? Im assuming I have ZERO chance of running x2 1/0 g inside the truck.

 

[dhmcfadin]

Good looking stall thus far and thanks for sharing. It appears you ran your power and ground under the truck? Is it 1/0 gauge? Do you think a 1/0 gauge could be run inside the truck without issue? I'm swapping out my 4 gauge run (firewall along passenger side trim) for some 1/0 and upgrading to Zen/Audiocontrol/Piioneer with MTI behind seat dual 10 in sub box. Also, is there a proper grounding spot or should I suck it up and run to the batter ground as well? Im assuming I have ZERO chance of running x2 1/0 g inside the truck.

All power wire is 1/0 which is why I ran it outside the truck. 4 runs will absolutely not fit. 2 runs, in your case, might fit but you would have to run ground down one side and power down the other. 1 run will fit no problem as I did it in my 2016.

Here’s my reasoning for ground back to the battery: 99.9% of alternator whine comes from a poor ground. Now, don’t confuse stereo noise/ alternator whine with gain hiss. Those are two different things. In regard to alternator whine, I wanted to eliminate any chance of ground noise so I ran ground back to the battery BUT I was planning on running through the floor so that made it a lot easier. Grounding back to the battery is the absolute quietest ground you can have with the least amount of resistance.

In your case, you can ground to the factory grounds on the back of the fire wall. Below is a pic. It’s the green wires. You very well may not have any noise at all. And that’s great. If you do have a little alternator whine, I would either try a different ground point like directly to the frame or just lower your gains on your amp. You may sacrifice a little volume at the top end but it is what it is. You don’t have to go back to the battery but I just wanted to explain why I did what I did.

 

[nah_tan]

All power wire is 1/0 which is why I ran it outside the truck. 4 runs will absolutely not fit. 2 runs, in your case, might fit but you would have to run ground down one side and power down the other. 1 run will fit no problem as I did it in my 2016.

Here’s my reasoning for ground back to the battery: 99.9% of alternator whine comes from a poor ground. Now, don’t confuse stereo noise/ alternator whine with gain hiss. Those are two different things. In regard to alternator whine, I wanted to eliminate any chance of ground noise so I ran ground back to the battery BUT I was planning on running through the floor so that made it a lot easier. Grounding back to the battery is the absolute quietest ground you can have with the least amount of resistance.

In your case, you can ground to the factory grounds on the back of the fire wall. Below is a pic. It’s the green wires. You very well may not have any noise at all. And that’s great. If you do have a little alternator whine, I would either try a different ground point like directly to the frame or just lower your gains on your amp. You may sacrifice a little volume at the top end but it is what it is. You don’t have to go back to the battery but I just wanted to explain why I did what I did.

awesome! exact answer i was looking for, thanks.

 

[2F150]

All the items circled in red need to be addressed in order for the rattles to go away.

Door panels taped off and isolated from the doors. Thanks for the tips. Doors sound much better. Pounding pretty good.

This exposed a host of other noises in the truck. Rear doors dash etc. one thing at a time. I’m pretty happy with it. Really don’t need a sub. But I really do need a sub or two.

Some updates:


Keep twisting them down until snug.






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[2F150]

AMPS ARE HERE!



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