Make sure you do the Fuse 27 fix!!!

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daddycreswell

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My fuel pump went out at 30,000 miles. Fuse 27 appeared to be fine, but I replaced it with the relocation kit just to be safe.


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Repair shop called this morning. He said when the rollback dropped it off yesterday it fired right up, let it sit over night and started up this morning like it should. I told them to keep it today and just check it every now and then. No clue what happen. Guess I'll go pick it up and take it home. Very odd...

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MC15

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Repair shop called this morning. He said when the rollback dropped it off yesterday it fired right up, let it sit over night and started up this morning like it should. I told them to keep it today and just check it every now and then. No clue what happen. Guess I'll go pick it up and take it home. Very odd...

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As I had today off (thank you all veterans especially my wife who had to work today!) I decided to tackle this fix. Took about 20 minutes. The instructions are pretty straightforward in the kit. Note to everyone: Make sure you do this! I had no symptoms but look at my fuse!!!!

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I’m curious why this doesn’t fit under the qualifications for a recall? My 2012 with 106k just fell victim to this obvious design flaw.
 

bigrig

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I have been procrastinating on this project for about 30K miles. I dug into it this past weekend, thanks to this thread acting as a reminder.

The directions don't say to do this, but I found it helpful and though it worth sharing...
I unbolted the aluminum carriage that the fusebox clicks into. It requires unbolting 4 bolts near the front of the fusebox which are easy to access. Doing so makes it easier to gain access to the fusebox (and underneath it). I also had to unfasten less of the plastic push fasteners that lock down the cables which was required by the directions.
 
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killvino

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New owner, just picked up a 2013 SCrew last week. checked and saw that it hadnt been relocated had the kit sitting in my amazon cart, go to start it yesterday morning and it wouldnt start. checked the fuse and yep it was melted, had to pull it out in two pieces, tried putting in a new fuse but still wouldnt start. got it towed to the closest dealer and making the dealer that sold it to me pay for all repairs, apparently i also flooded the engine trying to start it the few times, spark plugs are getting swapped out too since they were original.

TLDR: melted fuse one week of owning new to me 2013, DO THE RELOCATION ASAP if you havent yet.
 

Jonny V

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I had this repair done at the dealer over a year ago when my truck was in for spark plugs. There is a Ford service bulletin about it that my guy found. They know all about this and what to do to fix it. That said, they are going to charge you if you go to them....
 

mpk1996

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Just did this fix yesterday. It was super easy. seriously, one of the easiest things ive ever done on the truck.

the kit is great, comes with everything you need, including the shrink wrap. the step by step directions are good. there is a video out on youtube of a dealer tech doing the swap. one thing he does that I did that helped a lot is removing the bracket that the fuse box sits on (4 10mm bolts). that gives a lot more room to turn the box upside down and get to the wires.
 

SVO 85

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I’m curious why this doesn’t fit under the qualifications for a recall? My 2012 with 106k just fell victim to this obvious design flaw.

My guess would be that recalls are for when there’s a chance at people getting hurt
 

Dr G

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OK, so I am right in the middle of doing this fix on my 2013 SuperCab.

I've gotten to the point where it is time to cut wires. But the instructions leave me confused.

I have located the large BU/RD wire that leads to the location of Fuse 27. I understand that this wire must be cut, and the pigtail now coming out of the PDB must be terminated with heat shrink.

The kit came with one black wire, with bare wire on one side and spade terminal on the other. As I understand it, the spade terminal goes into the PDB at location 70-1.

But what happens to the other end of the cut BU/RD wire? Does that get soldered to the Black wire from the kit, thus leading it to location 70-1?

The instructions mention that the Black wire from the kit must be connected to the circuit going to cavity PDB 8-3. That's where I lose track.

Can anyone advise?
 

xtela

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Yes you are correct. The black wire from the kit goes to the BU/Rd wire you cut.
Shows how to make the connection.
 
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