GEN 1 I Finished My Sytem

[MrFord]

SO
I did Car Audio Back in the day 1980s and 90s. Mainly competition systems and I did help on the full-sized Orion Van with Tony from Orion, some Alpine Trams Am show cars. Grant you the Tech has changed but if you find a guy the Knows what they are doing and Cares about their rep and your Truck you won’t have to do any damage to your truck in anyway. it took me a while to dig deep and find all the equipment I wanted, and I went with the following.


My line up is


One 2013 6.2L Ford Raptor (most Critical component you need)


2nd) 2 Alpine PDX6 amps 150 x 4 =1200 watts

one for the front doors 1 for the rear doors 600 watts per door


For my Front doors I got the Morels 38 Limited edition component speakers (OMG Like honey to your ears) running them active bypassing the Crossovers and using the Amps cross overs.


For my Rear doors I Have the Focal K2 Component set for Rear Fill (they sound sweet as well just not as sweet as the Morels) and again bypassed the crossovers and used the amps crossovers)


for the Bass I have a JL Audio 10' sub 2 Ohm for now until my Kicker custom rear mount box shows up with the 10" 1 Ohm dual voice coil Kicker comp sub. it will be powered with a 800 watt RMS 1600 watt Max American Bass Phantom 1600 MD.


Now I was given wrong info at the start and I went with a LC7I and IMO I didn’t like the compressed MP3 sound and inaccurate summoning processing reproduction for my ears. (prob just my Picky ears)

I did more digging and found the Most important and useful component for all F150 Raptors,

Every Owner Needs to add after market amps to the Sony deck with factory amp. With this set up you will not need to cut a single wire and it works for all F150s and you won’t need to Alter your wringing in anyway. You need to get the Pac Amp4Pro it goes between the deck and amp to add RCA/Digital output from the deck with a FLAT frequency response. And don’t Quote me but I’m almost positive it has a 5m amp input/output that is perfect for any amp.


I now finished off the system with a TWK 88 from JL Audio for the cleanest sounding DPS I used so far and well I have to say no more MP3 compressed music sound and plenty of volume to play with.

for Power I used custom High end Power lines both 4 g giving me clean uninterrupted power flow the feed back to the distribution block that feeds my 3 Amps. And 2 4g Ground (grounded in different locations) that feed to the ground distribution block to feed the 3 Amps and I have a remote line direct off the Amp4Pro so it will control the turn on without any pops to the speakers. I Changed all the specker wires from Factory set up and the only issue was to get the wires though the Molex of the front doors. Other than that all was simple and easy to do.

I myself do not like the Audio control summoning process and I now have a paper weight in my garage collecting dust. I do like the tuning program the twk 88 has.

It was for only a laptop, but they updated it to go with tablets and cell phones now so your always in control of your system.

 

[Jeff302]

Sounds like great setup! I don't see ever having a system that nice, but a lower end version of a similar setup is intriguing. I don't have anywhere near the knowledge or experience though, so I do have a couple questions please:

Do you still have full OEM functionality of things like Sync and voice controls?

Do you still have balance, fade, and EQ control from the factory head unit?

 

[Tx State]

Looks really good. How do you like the PacAmppro? Also could you get some pictures on how you ran your speaker wires from the amp to the door speakers?

 

[MrFord]

yes i am not missing any Factory Funtions, all are accounted for and work as intended from Fords

 

[MrFord]

Its winter here so ill need some time for a warm day, my custom kicker sub box has arrived and that will take some time to set up. The Amp4pro was the missing piece for a good clean flat frequency response for adding the amps. its just like having a Pre-out on the Factory deck. as for the doors, there is a small area you can slip a smaller Gauge wire through the door and Molex within the rubber boot. but I used 14 g wiring so I had to be creative. and add Quick disconnects.

 

[MrFord]

Sounds like great setup! I don't see ever having a system that nice, but a lower end version of a similar setup is intriguing. I don't have anywhere near the knowledge or experience though, so I do have a couple questions please:

Do you still have full OEM functionality of things like Sync and voice controls?

Do you still have balance, fade, and EQ control from the factory head unit?

Everything works as it did. Fade front back left right midrange bass treble all deck functions work

 

[Jeff302]

Awesome, thank you!

 

[Tx State]

Could I have a link to the pac unit you used.

 

[goblues38]

SO
I did Car Audio Back in the day 1980s and 90s. Mainly competition systems and I did help on the full-sized Orion Van with Tony from Orion, some Alpine Trams Am show cars. Grant you the Tech has changed but if you find a guy the Knows what they are doing and Cares about their rep and your Truck you won’t have to do any damage to your truck in anyway.

Cool. i am pretty much coming from the same back ground as you. Was an installer / sales guy for high end Mobile Electronics shop from 87-94. Had several "competition" cars and was an IASCA judge for one season.

Tech has changed a bunch, and back in those days, factory car audio was throw away junk. Now a days, it is a least passable, but overpriced with the higher end systems.

I stopped spending my money on car audio and re directed my money to Home theater. My kids and their friends only want to play games and watch movies in my basement. Nobody else's dad has 2, 15 inch velodyne's in their basement

Posts like yours bring back the memories and have given me the itch.....but way more things i want to spend $3,000+ on now a days.

Nice post.....keep up the good work.

 

[MrFord]

Could I have a link to the pac unit you used.

https://pac-audio.com/catalog/amppro-amplifier-interfaces/ap4-fd21